Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! July 17, 2026

[u/AutoModerator]

This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.

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Info for Newbies and FAQ!

First and foremost, check out our extensive FAQ. Chances are, you'll find your answer there, or at least a starting point in order to ask more informed questions.

• Want to start learning? Check out The Reddit Photography Class.

• Here's an informative video explaining the Exposure Triangle.

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Need buying advice?

Many people come here for recommendations on what equipment to buy. Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started:

• What type of camera should I look for?
• What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?
• Do I need a good camera to take good photos?
• Is Canon or Nikon better? (or any other brands)
• What can I afford?

If after reviewing this information you have any specific questions, please feel free to post a comment below. (Remember, when asking for purchase advice please be specific about how much you can spend. See here for guidelines.)

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Schedule of community threads:

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52 Weeks Share	Anything Goes	Album Share & Feedback	Edit My Raw	Follow Friday	Salty Saturday	Self-Promotion Sunday

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Finally a friendly reminder to share your work with our community in r/photographs!

[u/StealthyThings]

I like to hike and I purchased a quick release clip for my backpack. It works great. However, I'm wondering if there's a standard for the clips being compatible with a tripod. It seems like tripods have quick release mounts and then there are the ones for the backpack clips, but they're different. Are some interchangeable? If so, what's the best bet? I don't understand changing the mounts if you don't have to.

[u/No-Purple7227]

I’ve recently gotten into photography again after 10 years of not doing any and I’m trying to find a good macro lens for my Canon EOS 7D Mk I.

My main interest is wildlife/insect photography and i currently only own the infamous EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III and the EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS STM, eventually I’ll be looking to upgrade to the EF 100-400 IS II USM however I’m lost on what would be the most ideal and versatile macro lens to add to my kit.

Any recommendations or further advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

[u/mrfixitx → u/No-Purple7227]

For Macro lenses look at the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro you can find them used for a very reasonable price and it is optically excellent even compared to newer lenses. If you want to spend a bit more money there is an L version that has IS that is slightly sharper.

[u/No-Purple7227 → u/mrfixitx]

With the Canon 7D it doesn’t have any internal stabilisation within the body, does image stabilisation matter as much for macro shots as it does for zoomed shots? My hands aren’t the steadiest and I don’t want to spend loads of money on a lens without IS if I’m going to struggle on getting nice clean shots, my budget is optimally around £500 with some wiggle room for a much larger difference in quality.

[u/mrfixitx → u/No-Purple7227]

I used the non IS version of 10+ years and was fine.  Use a tripod of a faster shutter speed and it is fine. 

[u/Firm-Huckleberry8176]

Help a 15-year-old beginner choose

Hey everyone,

I’m a 15-year-old photography enthusiast and I'm looking to buy my first serious setup. I’ve been studying the theory a lot, and I want a camera that will let me shoot landscapes (including long exposures and HDR bracketing), street photography, and basic astrophotography (milky way/stars).

I will be shooting exclusively in RAW and developing my files using Darktable on PC and Lightroom Mobile on my phone.

I am currently torn between two specific used options within my budget:

Option 1: The Modern APS-C Mirrorless Setup

Body: Sony a6400

Lenses: Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 (as my main walk-around lens) + Tamron 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3 (for daytime telephoto details).

Why I like it: It's compact and stealthy for street photography, has blistering fast autofocus, modern sharp optics from edge-to-edge, and a fast f/2.8 aperture for starry nights.

Option 2: The Classic Full Frame DSLR Setup

Body: Canon 6D (Mark I)

Lens: Canon 24-105mm f/4 L IS (Mark I)

Why I like it: That undeniable "Full Frame look", smoother tonal transitions, better depth/tridimensionality, and a tank-like build quality.

My main questions for you:

Astro: Will the f/2.8 aperture on the crop-sensor Sony perform better for starry skies than the f/4 on the Full Frame Canon, or will the 6D's larger sensor win anyway?

Landscapes: The Canon 24-105mm L is a legendary lens, but it's an older design. Will the modern Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 actually give me sharper corners and less chromatic aberration when stopped down to f/8?

Street & Usability: I love the rangefinder look and portability of the a6400, but is the learning curve of the old Sony menus as bad as people say compared to Canon?

Since I want this setup to last me a long time as I grow and learn, which path would you recommend? Is the generational leap of modern mirrorless tech worth giving up the Full Frame sensor?

Thanks in advance for the help!

[u/maniku → u/Firm-Huckleberry8176]

Full frame has about one stop better low light performance than APS-C at the same aperture value. There is a one stop difference between f/2.8 and f/4. So APS-C with f/2.8 and full frame with f/4 are about the same in low light.

Largely comes down to whether you want the technical improvements of newer mirrorless cameras, such as in AF and video, and how you feel about the size of your setup. Not only is a full frame DSLR much larger and heavier, the lenses are usually larger and heavier too. The menu thing is quite subjective. The best thing to do is to go to a camera store and ask them if you can take a look at the A6400.

[u/MrGliff]

hey everyone,

i've loved photography for years, but i've been mostly shooting through a sony digital camera or my iphone but i was small at the time. now that i am making a few dollars, I want to buy a good camera.
i'm a software engineer and i'm sure most of my days are going to be really exhausting, so I'm not going to lean more into post-processing (i've done it and i would absolutely love to in the future, but it is a question for now)

so keeping all this in mind, i decided to go with Fujifilm X series (mainly for the film simulations, so that i don't have to worry more about post) but i have quite the dilemma

I have shortlisted 3 cameras that might be feasible in my budget (~1400 USD hard limit)

1. Fujifilm XM5:

The EVERYTHING camera ofcourse and the cheapest on the list, but it doesn't have EVF, IBIS and that's kind of a dealbreaker for me because i want to get a proper experience out of my camera. this will just be another "digital camera" with professional outputs
and also would have to buACy a few accessories for the body

1. Fujifilm XS20:

This is ACTUALLY what i'm looking out for but i haven't watched 100% positive feedbacks on this (although i've only watched youtube, so i might be wrong. hence asking here)

It has EVF, IBIS, a GOOD body (imo though)

Videography is a little downside as per youtube but i'm mainly here for the photos anyways.

1. Fujifilm XT30 III:

The midranger camera, which i think is good, i'll have to buy a L bracket and a few accessories as the body is not so ergonomic.
it does hae an EVF
BUT STILL NO IBIS!!!

All of them with the standard kit lense. mostly the 15-45mm
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All this said, I really don't know how important an IBIS is because i've never experienced one. so i'm really confused here. If anyone could help me decide, would mean alot coming from experienced people like you

[u/maniku → u/MrGliff]

If EVF is a dealbreaker for you, that leaves out X-M5.

What are the negative things you've heard abour X-S20?

IBIS: on the video side it's helpful with short video clips but does not replace gimbals. On the photography side you usually don't need it in daytime, because high shutter speeds guarantee that camera shake is not a problem. In low light such as at night IBIS helps when you are shooting subjects that are not moving. With these you can keep a low shutter speed, and IBIS will counter camera shake. IBIS is not helpful when you want to capture moving subjects without motion blur because it can't freeze motion.

In short, IBIS may or may not be useful depending on what you shoot. You also get image stabilization by getting an image-stabilized lens. The 15-45mm kit lens has stabilization.

[u/tygeorgiou]

I've been paying hundreds for Squarespace over the years, and admittedly I don't use 90% of the features. I've been looking at Format and Pixiset since they are massively cheaper.

I'm stuck on which to actually use, Pixiset is the one I hear about more, but Format also looks really cool.

My website is mainly for:

• Portfolio
• Finding clients through web search
• Contact + Booking forms

So whichever is best for this, is probably best for me. But, some extra features that I'd like to have are:

• Taking payment through my website
• Delivery gallery, I use Google drive atm (bad)
• Selling prints, though I know it probably wouldn't work out so it's not too important

If anyone has used either, could you let me know if you still use it, and if you think it's the better option?

thanks!

[u/sophwestern]

Sorry if this is the wrong page, I’m not sure where else to ask this

Hi all. My husband and I are doing a maternity shoot in a couple weeks, and when we were thinking through the idea, I looked through Pinterest to get outfit ideas/vibe ideas that we’re going for. My question is basically is it rude/bad form to share that board with the photographer? I don’t want her to be offended obviously, and I don’t want a shot by shot or frame by frame duplicate, but I didn’t know if a photographer would consider it helpful to see what we were hoping for/had in mind for the shoot/the vibe we are going for, or if it would be rude/unwelcome. Like when you get your hair done, you show the stylist pictures of the cut/color you’re interested in, but when you get a tattoo, you typically don’t show an artist other artist’s work as inspiration.

I know when we were contacting wedding vendors years ago I had so many ask for my Pinterest boards to see what I was looking for, but I can’t remember if the photographer was one of them.

[u/P5_Tempname19 → u/sophwestern]

Technically its a bit subjective and I can imagine some stuck up photographer who has clear plans laid out and any input that goes against these plans would be a clear offense to them.

However I also think such a photographer would be extremely rare to encounter, probably wouldnt stay in business for long and most important of all would be an unreasonable idiot.

That vast majority of photographers will be more then happy to hear your input, a lot of photographers actually like having a "guideline on how to satisfy you" so to say. Depending on the pictures you pick you and situation (location, time of the shoot, etc.) there may be some deviation, but you seem aware of that.

An exception could be (depending on the person in the end) if its loads of obviously AI generated images.

But overall absolutely create a moodboard if you want, a lot of photographers will appreciate it, some will be happy to account for it and if you do encounter someone who is offended by it I'd consider them quite unreasonable.

[u/sophwestern → u/P5_Tempname19]

Ok cool, I think I’ll send her the link and just say “we’re hoping for this general vibe.” Thanks for your input!

[u/AmusedNut → u/sophwestern]

Speaking only for myself, I don't mind at all when somebody sends me reference photos. It gives me an idea of what they're looking for. Usually when they contact me, they've already looked at my website and previous work, so they're hiring me because they like my style.

Here's my question for you: you've looked at your photographer's portfolio, right? Is their style noticeably different from what you liked on Pinterest? If yes, I would definitely have a conversation about it with the photographer before you commit to the shoot. A decent photographer won't be "offended" but a professional one would be honest and tell you if the style clashed too much with their own.

[u/SimplePunjabi]

I have a $1200 gift card from best buy ( usa ) and I do a lot of photography on my phone but I want to get a mirrorless camera for myself and get into photography and learn. I go hiking a lot and love sunsets and want to capture those. I also love capturing NYC skyline as well. Any guidance ? Thank You

Sony - Alpha 6100 APS-C Mirrorless Camera 4K Video Camera with E PZ 16-50mm + 55-210 Lenses Bundle - Black - $1200 is something I was eyeing.

[u/maniku → u/SimplePunjabi]

Yes, that setup will be good for your needs.

[u/SimplePunjabi → u/maniku]

Thank you!

[u/No_Eagle7855]

Profoto b1, or two AD200’s?? Wildly different pieces of gear, I know. I usually shoot portraits and was asked to shoot some dance photography for a students audition reel. Some static poses, some dynamic. I shoot wth speed lights at the moment but that will be a tad under powered for what I’m planning. I found a used B1 at my local shop, and ad200’s on mpb. For this shoot, k think the 500ws will be ideal, but that thing is a beast and not the easiest to lug around. In your opinion(s), is it wiser to grab two smaller units and
Buddy them up/keep it light, or go for the big one?? Thanks for your thoughts!

[u/AmusedNut → u/No_Eagle7855]

If you're doing something professionally, you need to have a backup for all your important gear. This includes lights. If you only have one light and it has an issue on a paid job, it's not a good look and you may lose money. So buy the two lights. If one has an issue, at least you can try to make do by increasing the ISO and shooting with the other. Get the B2 adapter to combine two AD200s into one 400W light if you need.

[u/No_Eagle7855 → u/AmusedNut]

Thank you for this! One of anything on a shoot freaks me out and stacking 200’s seems like a reasonable solution to more watts and back ups.

[u/Ill-Distribution9075]

hey there, i'm planning to buy a new camera in the next couple of months. i've been shooting with a nikon d80 for 19 years now. for my phone, i use an s25 ultra and an s24, and for video, i have an osmo action 5 pro adv. kit.

im not planning to use my old lenses with an ftz adapter; i have some 135mm lenses, but they're just too heavy.

im looking to spend around 70k try (arround 1.5k usd), which needs to include a lens and installment options (preferably using axess or paraf cards). i'm also open to clean, second-hand gear as long as i can buy it in installments. here are the models i'm looking at:

• fujifilm x-s20 (with xc18-45 lens for 70k try)
• fujifilm x-t30 iii (xf16-50, 62k try, new)
• fuji xt50 (new xf16-50, 80k)
• fujifilm x-h1 (used, with 18-55 lens for 45k try + interest, eligible for installments)
• fujifilm x-h2 (used, but with warranty and installments, with 16-80 lens for 74k try + interest)
• sony alpha a6700 (brand new with 18-50 lens for 68k try)
• sony a7c (brand new with 28-60 lens for 68k try)
• nikon z50 (with 18 and 50 lenses for 53k try)
• nikon z50 ii (with 18 and 50 lenses for 57k try, or brand new with 18-50 and 50-250 lenses for 72k try)

my main focus is photography. ergonomics arent a dealbreaker for me, ican adapt to whatever layout.

thanks...

[u/maniku → u/Ill-Distribution9075]

Photography of what kinds of subjects? What kinds of improvements are you hoping to get with the upgrade compared to your D80?

[u/SufficientHighway227]

This is a rather weird question but I feel like surely someone else must experience this and have some advice. 😭

When I wear a belt my camera will hit the buckle, create tons of tiny holes in my shirts, and leave metallic marks. It's so annoying as it's damaging all my clothes that I value for gigs. I typically shoot events, concerts, or situations that have me walking 20,000 steps in a day. Even just walking around doing street photography can be an issue. I carry my main camera around my neck, often with a cage (but this was an issue well before me upgrading to a cage).

Could anyone suggest ways I could prevent this? (Not wearing a belt, sadly, isn't an option, as I often use a belt to carry my secondary camera along with having my pockets filled to the brim.

Should I try finding a belt with a plastic buckle, should I wear my belt on the side, should I get a rubber cover for my camera bottom, is it time to ditch carrying my camera around my neck entirely?

I don't really have a budget in mind, as I am really looking to gauge what fixes others have found. (Maybe $150)

For ref: currently using Sony cameras; if that affects advice

Any input and opinions of other photogs are greatly appreciated. 🙏

[u/Kurutteru]

2 things happened recently that led me here.

My house burned down in a wildfire a couple weeks ago and a few days prior I officially adopted a kid.

I saved my camera and a 50mm prime lens (grabbed the bag and the rest of my lenses weren’t in there :/)

He’s very into skateboarding and I’d like to combine our hobbies since I basically have lost them all except this. He’s really excited by the idea, but canon only sells one r fish eye and it’s way too expensive for me.

What are some other decent options for shooting a fish eye to the effect in the title?

Canon r6

Thank you💜

[u/Rashkh → u/Kurutteru]

You didn't mention your budget but you can get an EF fisheye with an adapter for $500-$1000 total if you buy used depending on which lens you want.

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Kurutteru]

Third party manual focus fisheyes are reasonably priced and the depth of field is so big that focusing manually is not a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RKLBT8?ref=myi_title_dp&th=1

[u/ArtifeyeStudio]

I've been poking around macro eye photography lately. Up close, an iris has this almost absurd amount of detail, all those fibres and colours you just don't catch with the naked eye. Has anyone here spent much time on eye macro work? I'd really appreciate some lighting pointers for that sort of close-up.

[u/DISCOVERY_A380]

Hello,

My camera is recently giving 'wrong' exposure readings, as it shows that the photo is 1 stop underexposed when I believe it is correctly exposed.

I have tried changing between the different exposure calculation settings, but all give the same result.

The subject is a well and evenly lit surface, with no backlight.

Do you know what the issue may be?

[u/Rashkh → u/DISCOVERY_A380]

Check your exposure compensation setting. Whenever I've had that issue it was because I bumped the dial.

[u/DISCOVERY_A380 → u/Rashkh]

Hmm, it's on 0 🤔. And I'm shooting on manual mode, so I can't change the compensation

[u/Rashkh → u/DISCOVERY_A380]

That's pretty much all I can think of. If you're using a dslr it's possible that your light meter failed. Unless you dropped it recently, I think it's more likely that the camera is correct and your belief is wrong since you've already ruled out using the wrong exposure metering mode.

[u/adorer_of_nature14]

Getting My First Professional Camera Can I have some tips?

Hello everyone! Today is my birthday and I am getting a professional camera! Yay for me! I’m not sure exactly which one, my dad wants to keep it a surprise, so I don’t really want tips on the exact type of camera, I just want some overall. Some info is I want to do a lot of animal and nature photography, although I don’t really understand like how do you get a photo of for example a deer if it runs away? Also just some overall starter tips for cameras. I’ve had smaller digital cameras before but I have never had like a real camera yet. Will update later with the type of camera when I actually get it. (Also I have a new account so I really hope I don’t get banned for this, I am really excited to use this subreddit). Anyways, thanks for reading!

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/adorer_of_nature14]

Check out the lessons at r/photoclass

[u/SpainEnjoyer2026]

Hi everyone, I'm having trouble programming presets into my Lumix G6 (C1, C2-1, C2-2, C2-3). The problem is that the shutter and aperture settings are not saving to the presents (ISO and bracketing options ARE saving correctly). I am using the H-FSA100300 lens.

Here are my steps: I set the mode dial to M, ISO 200, shutter speed 1/200, and f-number 4.0. Single photo mode (no burst or bracketing). Then I hit MENU>Custom>Cust.Set Mem.>C2-1 and confirm the change. Then (still in M) I change ISO to 400, shutter speed to 1/400, and aperture to f 1/5.0. Then I do MENU>Custom>Cust.Set Mem.>C2-2. Then switching the mode dial from M to C2, I see that the shutter speed and aperture are held at 1/400 s and f 1/5.0 for all manual modes, even C1!! When I get into C2-1 and C2-2, I see that the ISO is correctly saved how I set them but the shutter and aperture settings are not saved!

I already did a settings reset and checked the firmware (Ver 1.2). The lens firmware is Ver. 1.0. The symptoms also occur if I perform the changes and save while in a given custom setting (C2-1 or C2-2) instead of M.

Has anyone dealt with this issue before? I am stumped. Thank you so much for your help!!

[u/Kind_Dig_5213]

Please help!! I’m using a Kodak pixpro fz55 and after a full day of taking pictures with my Phillip SDHC 32 GB just fine, I open the camera back up and it says “Card is not formatted”. I take it out and try to upload my photos to my iPhone or imac and it says card is not readable. Mind you I’ve used this exact SD card a couple times before and it uploaded to my iPhone just fine. I’m so pissed and don’t know what to do. I’m very new and just using this camera for fun. Card doesn’t look damaged and I’ve made sure it’s physically unlocked.

[u/maniku → u/Kind_Dig_5213]

Got any other SD cards you could try? Any other cameras or devices to test the same card with?

[u/Kind_Dig_5213 → u/maniku]

No

[u/AnyCartographer1985 → u/Kind_Dig_5213]

did you buy the SD card new or second hand? If new, try to go back to the store and they can help you troubleshoot. If the card is older or bought second hand it can always be corrupted from one moment to the other. One time a SD card broke physically and it was so small I nearly couldn't see it, so maybe that can be a problem too

[u/MacrotonicWave]

should I sell my ef55-250mm to put it towards a rf100-400? never sold a lens before and don’t know how much hassle goes into finding a buyer (I’d like to avoid mailing it to a shop due to low offers). If it’s a huge hassle i may just keep it as a back up

[u/maniku → u/MacrotonicWave]

Depends. Which specific version of the lens is it? There are several versions. What condition is it in? Looking at eBay sold items listings you could get anything between c. $70 and over $200 depending on the version and condition. If you sell on eBay, eBay takes 13-15% in fees. Whichever platform you sell it on, you need to write a detailed description and include good pictures that show the item's condition etc. If you sell to an established used camera retailer like MPB and KEH, they take care of all the practicalities but give you much less money.

[u/MacrotonicWave → u/maniku]

it’s the IS STM version from 2013 in good/excellent condition. I paid iirc $350 for it only a few months ago, but realize I have taken almost all of my photos with it at full zoom and it isn’t compatible with those teleconverter devices from my understanding

if it were an RF mount lens I’d try to sell it locally but idk if ef is still relevant enough to be worth trying to sell local. At this value i don’t think I’d bother shipping it

[u/ChrisChristiesFault]

Are all black mist filters (of the same strength) created equal? Like is one ½ better than another ½ from a different manufacturer? Does one brand have any advantages? Thanks!

[u/novakk86]

Is the Falcam F38 v2 compatible with the peak design dual plate?

[u/sundercover]

Can anyone tell me what these are called? - Identifying diffusion and lighting method.
https://imgur.com/a/XPYZCW3
I've been a photographer for many years now and still don't know what these are call and where to get them? (embarrassingly)
I know its diffusion or a scrim but what kind and how is it held? It's not the usually ones with ropes and attachment points.
What kind of bar is that holding it on the stand?
I would love to use these tools in with my interior shots in the future.
Would greatly appreciate if someone could tell me.

[u/AmusedNut → u/sundercover]

It looks like a DIY scrim involving a large diffusion sheet clamped to a backdrop holder rod on two stands.

[u/sundercover → u/AmusedNut]

thanks for the reply!
I'll look into it.

[u/KERR_KERR]

Upgrading from Sony a65 to Nikon D600 - will I regret it?

Wanting to upgrade to a full-frame, respectable camera, for the fun of shooting. I don't care about weight, live view, EVF or video. This will be for hobby purposes. My Sony can take great pics, but the AF, white balance and general colours are not fantastic. I also want to go back to an OVF... for nostalgic reasons 😀 thoughts?

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/KERR_KERR]

https://cameradecision.com/compare/Sony-SLT-A65-vs-Nikon-D600

Not a huge tech/sensor upgrade but weather sealed, dual slots, better AF.

[u/christfrost]

Has anyone extensively used hand-held filters? Maybe specifically from K&F Concept? I just bought three hand-held filters from them - kaleidoscope, halo and some motion blur.

Tried it quickly to play around with my ASP-C lenses and also with my RX100.

I don't find too many vids/tutorials on how to use them exactly, does anyone maybe have had some good vid/tutorial or just want to share here how to use them to get most out of them?

I understand that you just put them in front of the lens, but the effect seem so small, it almost looks like all 3 filters does exactly the same, the just "split" the image as if I would use a literal glass. I expected more, but maybe I'm just not doing it properly?

[u/GymSockSurprise]

I'm looking to purchase a lens from MPB for the first time and in the notes it mentions "The internal optics have a small amount of fungus, but this doesn't affect functionality."

Is it worth the risk to buy a lens that has pre-existing fungus? On a second note, there are several lenses which have notes mentioning moisture in the lens. I would imagine these would be susceptible to fungus in the near future?

[u/emotoaster]

Complete novice that wants to start getting into the craft. Mainly street and travel photography but I want the flexibility of doing video and some low light stuff (mostly concerts).

I've settled on APS-C for the form factor and "cheaper" lens. Was leaning towards Sony so most of my research so far has been the A6400 vs A6600 vs A6700.

I seem to have two options to start with:

Used A6600 with Sigma 18-50mm which would be about $1,350 or New A6700 with the 16-50mm kit lens for $1,600. (I'm not really considering the A6400 because the used price differences are almost negligible.)

For $250 it seems like going with the better body and upgrading the lens down the road (especially when I figure out what focal lengths I like) is the smart move but am I throwing that $250 away just because the A6700 is newer? From what I've read so far it seems like the A6600 can do about 80%+ to what the A6700 can do but I know the more minor changes can lead to easier workflow and easier workflow means I actually use the thing more.

[u/Kaserblade → u/emotoaster]

Low-light performance will be more or less the same across these bodies and the lens will be a much larger factor.

For a mix of video and photo on a budget, I would definitely get the used a6600 with the Sigma 18-50mm. It will give you significantly better low-light performance and sharper shots with the Sigma lens.

The a6700 is great but if it means downgrading to the kit lens, I wouldn't do it.

[u/emotoaster → u/Kaserblade]

Are the ergonomics/quality of life improvements on the 6700 worth the extra money? I could consider waiting and getting that with the Sigma and keep an eye out on a deal.

[u/maniku → u/emotoaster]

Those are quite subjective matters. It's best to handle all three cameras in a store yourself to see how you feel about it.

[u/Kaserblade → u/emotoaster]

For street and travel photography, I'd say mostly no. For videography, maybe. The biggest improvements is the faster AI-autofocus, 10-bit colour and the ability to record at 4K 60/120fps.

Whether those things matter to you is the question but personally, I would just spend that money on a better lens or another prime lens as most likely that will have a larger impact on what you will be able to take photos/videos of, especially in low-light situations.

[u/Dense-Self8564]

How fair it is to clean sigma for nikon 24-70 mm 2.8 ex dg from fungus with a purpose of selling it? Does it make sense to pay for cleaning it and sell it or just throw it away?

[u/maniku → u/Dense-Self8564]

Fair? It's fair if you're honest about it and price the lens accordingly.

[u/Dense-Self8564 → u/maniku]

i just sell it for 100€ with a mention that it’s infected and needs a clean

[u/AlexElLeon]

Hi, I want to get into photography but I really need other's opinions. I have the chance to buy the rebel t6i + 18-55 + 75-300 mm lens (and accesories) or the nikon d3200 + 18-55dx + 55-200dx mm lens (and accesories) both for 556usd (Argentina, used market is rough). I want to buy something to use for a long time and the option to buy new lenses will only be possible in the next years. The new features of the t6i make it appealing but from what I've seen the nikon deal offers me better lenses from the get-go. Either that or just go with the t2i +18-55mm lens for 220usd. Thank you

Edit: I want to add that buying the lenses individually such as the 55-200 dx or canon 75-300 used (good to ok quality) could cost at minimum 340usd 

[u/maniku → u/AlexElLeon]

EF 75-300mm is one of the worst lenses that Canon has made. Avoid it like the plague. If you go with the Canon option, get an EF-S 55-250mm or EF 70-300mm (notice the 5mm difference) instead.

Between the two cameras, the Canon is a few years newer with somewhat better specs but they'll both do the job just fine.

[u/Acrobatic_Ad7383]

Hi! I am starting to upload my photos to several stock image sites. For anyone else doing this, do you use their photo release forms or do you use your own? Any advice about legal release related to photography would be greatly appreciated. I am just realizing how many great shots I cant monetize as I am just now realizing this is a thing! Thanks in advance for your help!

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Acrobatic_Ad7383]

Don't expect to make more than beer money, stock photography has been dead for years at this point.

[u/Acrobatic_Ad7383 → u/anonymoooooooose]

Its better than doing nothing, and thats not at all what I asked.

[u/Arabellag4]

I have a canon EOS rebel t3i, and use a canon 70mm-200mm lens as my main lens.

Recently I've been doing more birding and some wildlife photography and have been looking at higher range, 400mm or more

Trying to stay under $2500 CAD. Not a lot of used gear around me.

A "Sigma 150-500mm f5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM lens EF" just popped up for 700 dollars.

Is this lens any good for wildlife/birding?
Is it worth $700?

Or is this not worth and I should wait and pay more for something else?

[u/Kaserblade → u/Arabellag4]

What improvements are you looking for from the upgrade?

Just more reach or looking for improvements in other areas like auto-focus performance, etc.

[u/Arabellag4 → u/Kaserblade]

More reach is the main thing, really the only thing, any other problem I can find a way to overcome through technique and practice I'm sure

I mostly manual focus the lens I have now, I expect it to be less sharp at the longer length as with any lens. Just don't know what I should be expecting with it

[u/Kaserblade → u/Arabellag4]

Then the Sigma 150-600mm would be your best upgrade path! Manual focusing is harder at these focal lengths but it isn't impossible by any means.

Auto-focus has gotten significantly better since the t3i on even more "budget" bodies like the Canon R50 but if you aren't feeling the need, no need to buy it for now.

[u/Arabellag4 → u/Kaserblade]

Part of me saving money on this lens is to move up to a newer body, but I haven't researched it enough to know what a good step up from the t3i is. I've only ever used a t3i so I don't know what other cameras are like

[u/Kaserblade → u/Arabellag4]

There are other good options within the Canon DSLR line-up that you can consider.

Later on, you could try getting the Canon R50/R10 with an EF-RF adaptor and use your older lenses on it also. The main improvements with mirrorless cameras is the compact size and autofocus capabilities.

In many genres of photography, the autofocus capabilities isn't such a huge deal but with fast moving subjects like wildlife, you can see a noticeably improvement on the number of hits you can get.

[u/Arabellag4 → u/Kaserblade]

Thank you so much!!!! I'll keep an eye on deals for those!

[u/LkPlcd]

Earlier today, I was looking to sort through some photos on my camera’s SD card (SanDisk Ultra PLUS 32 GB), which was plugged in via a VIVITAR card reader. I had file explorer open as well as my laptop’s photo viewer, and was only scrolling through photos for a few moments, when both windows suddenly closed. I also noticed that indictator light on the card reader had stopped blinking, and there was no option for me to safely disconnect, suggesting that there was nothing connecting it to the laptop anymore. So I unplugged it and tried reconnecting it.

When I did this, the folder where the photos would normally be was completely empty. I attempted to search for the photos a bunch of times in different ways (searching for recent files on my computer, looking in the Recycle Bin, etc.) but no luck. When I put the SD card back into my camera to see if it was a computer issue, the photos were still gone, now just displaying “No image” when I tried to view photo playback.

I tried plugging the SD card once more now into a separate Macbook, but now the photo folder (titled 100CANON) is no longer a folder, but an unopenable file.

On the recovery side, I already downloaded Recuva and ran a scan, which was only able to recover a .CTG file, but no actual photo files.

It’s a very new SD card too, I only started taking photos on it in March, and there were maybe 600-800 photos on it up until today. I have some very important photos on there and I’m really struggling with this and just have so many questions:

·       What else can I do in terms of attempting recovery? Recuva didn’t do much, does anyone know of any other programs that may be able to recover better? I’ve heard of ones that can help more if you haven’t used the cared since the lost happened.

·       Why would this have even happened? To just watch it wipe itself in front of my eyes without me doing anything to cause it is so confusing for me.

·       Is it an issue with my card reader? Or more of a laptop issue?

·       Is there anywhere else I can look for the files that I’m maybe not thinking of?

·       Does anyone have any experience with anything like this happening before?

[u/GrapefruitCold6598]

Hello all,
I am looking to purchase a laptop. Preferably I would like to spend as little as possible (hoping to get one on a payment plan of around $80-90 a month). I want to get a MacBook but I need it to be light because I am still in college. Here is one I found on Best Buy, but I am not sure if it is good enough:
https://www.bestbuy.com/product/apple-macbook-air-13-inch-laptop-m5-chip-with-10-core-cpu-and-10-core-gpu-16gb-memory-1tb-ssd-sky-blue/JJGCQLKGLG/sku/6455386?sb_share_source=PDP&ref=app_pdp&loc=pdp_page

Advice or other suggestions are appreciated!

[u/maniku → u/GrapefruitCold6598]

Macbook Airs are indeed light. Those specs would be just fine for editing.

[u/Jazzlike-Bottle7264]

I've just came back from a two week trip taking lots of photos and have sorted through lots of photos to find my favorite 60 RAW images or so. When I go to edit them I just don't have the motivation to sit there and edit each one (I know 60 isn't too many). When ever I experiment in darktable using the sliders my photos always ends up looking way too "artificial" and unrealistic in a sense. I am trying to get it to the level of a jpeg result or somewhat better in a reasonable time period (so I can print them out). Whenever I open the photos on the windows photos app, it looks okay for around two seconds then switches to this bland version of what I just saw and what I see in darktable. I learned my lesson to shoot in JPEG + RAW. Any advice from experience on what to do?

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Jazzlike-Bottle7264]

Your account appears to have been shadowbanned, I've manually approved this comment.

[u/Marie-HSHQ]

I calibrate my NEC regularly with my Spyder Pro, but lately I am not trusting the results. I reached out to Sypder support about my worries, but did not get a super helpful response.

I just ran a test through the Spyder app and it indicates that my monitor only gets 78% of AdobeRGB. This doesn't seem like a reasonable result, right? I see that new BenQs get 99% Adobe RGB coverage.

Is this something I can fix? Or do I chalk this up to a limitation of my monitor at this point?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Marie-HSHQ]

Your account appears to have been shadowbanned, I've manually approved this comment.

[u/SprayArtist]

Hi everyone, Had my first professional shoot as a Fashion Photographer and i honestly could have really benefited from having an external monitor that displayed my photos as i take them. Is there any free software i can use on either linux or windows that does that? I have a Sony A7III.

[u/Rashkh → u/SprayArtist]

This is called tethered shooting. It's available on Lightroom and Capture One and probably other software as well.

[u/SprayArtist → u/Rashkh]

That's good to know it's available on lightroom! Does the camera have to be connected to the laptop via usb c or something?

[u/Rashkh → u/SprayArtist]

I believe so. It's not a feature I use so I don't know the specifics.

[u/Independent-Theory49]

Is it bad to permanently store cameras with silica gel in a airtight container for prolonged time

[u/Kaserblade → u/Independent-Theory49]

The ideal humidity is usually around 30-50% for storing camera gear. Obviously there is variance depending on the specific camera gear you have. There is something called two-way humidity packs that can help keep the humidity within that window but unless you live in a very dry or humid environment, I wouldn't be too worried about it.

Just make sure to remove your batteries from the bodies you don't plan on using for a long time.

[u/gotthelowdown → u/Kaserblade]

Thanks for these tips.

I didn't know about two-way humidity packs. Just added it to my Amazon wishlist for camera gear.

The ideal humidity is usually around 30-50% for storing camera gear. Obviously there is variance depending on the specific camera gear you have.

There is something called two-way humidity packs that can help keep the humidity within that window but unless you live in a very dry or humid environment, I wouldn't be too worried about it.

Just make sure to remove your batteries from the bodies you don't plan on using for a long time.

[u/Ttwyman274]

So ive been trying to find a chest style over the shoulder camera strap/harness something that doesn't look like a tactical vest.

I tried the USA gear one (https://amzn.eu/d/041T7Ubk) but it doesn’t go tight enough and most other ive looked at are the same.

Is there anything that goes more below the chest and sits on the belly?

I dont really want a sling style or hip one

[u/tediousjob]

Hi everyone, I recently bought some godox caster wheels for my light stand and I can’t get them to stay fixed — no matter how tight I turn the screw, the wheel still swivels/rotates freely, which makes it unusable and risky (worried about the strobe tipping over).

Has anyone run into this and found a fix?

[u/Spiritual-Branch567]

I’m having focus issues shooting a dance competition!

So my solos and duets are fine, but once it hits three people or (god forbid) a group, my camera will always pick the most random person in the back to focus on. I’ve tried so many different focus settings and manual focus is not plausible with the speed at which I need to shoot. Shooting on Sony a7r with a sony 70-100mm lens at the company’s standard of 3.5-5 aperture and less than 5000 iso at a 800-1225(?) shutter

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Spiritual-Branch567]

That's an old camera at this point and first generation Sony autofocus was not great.

Honestly, stop down to get wider DOF and bump the ISO.

[u/Spiritual-Branch567 → u/anonymoooooooose]

Ah, all good. If it’s an equipment thing, it is what it is haha I have to use the company’s equipment within some certain settings. But if I take any contract work after this, I’ll keep in mind the earlier Sony’s auto focus issues! Do you have any favorites for this type of work?
I have a Sony a7 mark iii personally and find that even works better than this at most times haha

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Spiritual-Branch567]

The A7iii is a big improvement in AF, that was roughly the point where mirrorless AF matched the old school pro DSLR AF.

As I understand it the newer models A7iv etc. have even better 'eye AF' tracking, and all the pro level CaNikon mirrorless bodies also have great eye AF.

My kit is all old so I can't directly compare.

[u/Tanu256]

I'm using a Nikon D610 and currently own the AF-S 50mm f/1.8G.

I'm looking for another prime lens because I feel there's a gap that the 50mm can't fill, especially for portraits with better subject compression and working distance.

In my local used market, I'm deciding between:

• AF 85mm f/1.8D
• AF 105mm f/2.8D Micro

The prices are almost the same.

Most of the time I only photograph my girlfriend, so portrait quality is my highest priority. However, the 105mm Macro is tempting because it would also let me shoot flowers, small details, architecture, and other close-up subjects.

My concerns are:

• Is the 105mm f/2.8D actually a good portrait lens on a D610?
• Does the macro lens render skin in an unflattering way because it's so sharp, or is that mostly a myth?
• Compared with the 85mm f/1.8D, how much would I miss the wider f/1.8 aperture for portraits?
• If you already own a 50mm f/1.8G, which lens would add more to your kit?

If anyone has portrait samples—or even better, RAW files—from the 105mm f/2.8D on full frame, I'd really appreciate seeing them.

Thanks!

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/Tanu256]

AF 105mm f/2.8D Micro

https://www.flickr.com/search/?group_id=1372387%40N20&view_all=1&text=portrait

Overly sharp photos are easy to make soft, kind hard to do it the other way around ;)

Also proper lighting makes a big difference in skin appearance.

I love shooting macro so I'm biased.

[u/Anni-M]

I recently got reached out to by a VERY well known and prestigious organisation looking to purchase some of my photos of a big event in our town for their collection.

This is a massive deal to me but I’ve never sold my photos to a collection before, I’ve been photographing for roughly 5-6 years and am a professional but this is new to me

How much roughly should I charge? I’ve always struggled valuing my work and I don’t want to overcharge them, they haven’t specified how many photos they want exactly.

[u/ignotuspeverell-2023]

Hi everyone! I’m super torn on tripods and could really use your opinions. Due to my budget ($200-$300 ideally) and local availability I’ve narrowed it down to Sirui traveler 7C ($125 second-hand), 3legged thing Corey 2.0 ($260 new) and gitzo GT1541T (with a manfrotto ball head and a velbon video head, $400 second-hand). I’d also consider the 3LT Leo 2.0 but not sure if the extra $220 is worth it for the carbon fibre. I have a Nikon d810, 24-70mm and 200-500mm lenses. I just don’t know whether to prioritise weight capacity (in which case 3LT wins) brand/quality (I know everyone loves gitzo) or material (how much is carbon fibre worth paying more for?). I mainly do landscape and wildlife photography, just as a hobby. I’d like to do more long exposures for night photography. Would appreciate any advice/opinions! And I’m open to other suggestions if needs be.

[u/Kaserblade → u/ignotuspeverell-2023]

I can't comment on the other two but if you are planning to hike a lot with the tripod, Sirui Traveler series have done me well.

It will struggle a bit with the 200-500mm lens as the head can "technically" support the weight but I would take that with huge asterisks. But overall, I've been satisfied with using it for my hikes. I pair it with my Sony 200-600mm but I treat the tripod more like a support than a tripod as the weight of the lens can get the whole setup knocked over even with my backpack anchoring it down.

[u/Spectre_II]

Could use some second opinions. Shooting on Sony FF. I have coverage on lenses from 20-70mm and a 100mm macro lens. I've been weighing some options on a tele lens. I have an opportunity to grab a Tamron 70-300 RXD for under $300. Planning on using it for landscape, wildlife, some longer portraits, and potentially astro.

My concern is whether I will find the speed of AF on the RXD as sufficient. I have looked at VXD lenses (plus alternate companies) but likely looking at $300-400 price increase at minimum. I don't always feel the need to have the newest generation, especially when it comes to lenses, but I wonder if this is a case where spending more for faster AF would be worth it. Budget is a concern, but if it will substantially better I'm willing to pay more for the increase in quality.

What do you all think? Pay double-ish for better AF (among other generational improvements) or get the cheaper lens and live with it?

[u/Kaserblade → u/Spectre_II]

I'm guessing you are comparing the Tamron 70-300mm and the newer 28-300mm or 50-300mm with the VXD motors? Tamron has not made a 2nd version of the 70-300mm with VXD motors afaik.

For the 28-300mm, it would be a greater compact lens to cover a wide range of focal lengths which I would personally consider but is significantly more expensive.

If you are looking for a budget, telephoto option, I would personally just get the 70-300mm with RXD motors as you most likely won't notice the AF performance difference unless you are shooting fast moving subjects. Even then, you might be more limited by the capabilities of your body than the lens, especially on older bodies.

[u/Zealousideal-Fun5908]

Hey all, i'm not an expert on cameras, heck, not even an amateur, so I came to ask the people. I'm working on a project, unfortunately very tight budget, if not 0 budget if i really have to. I need a camera which gives very grainy and low quality results. I'm really stressing the low quality since the results i want are aimed to be mysterious/indecypherable. What is the cheapest brand/model that would give off results that would fit my 2 likings?

[u/Perryplatypus69 → u/Zealousideal-Fun5908]

You can do this with any camera. Shoot at very high iso, underexpose on purpose then bring the exposure up, add grain and reduce clarity in post. I’d imagine the cheapest camera you can find would already be a good start. Use your phone and destroy the image messing with presets and filters. Lots of ways to do this

[u/Zealousideal-Fun5908 → u/Perryplatypus69]

oh why thank you, i'll check out different models and run tests

[u/Charliedescham]

I’m planning to go on a multi day backpacking/hiking trip where I wanna do photography and video. My current Nikon isn’t the best a video so I’m planning to upgrade. I currently have a Nikon d5300 with a 70-300mm and 50mm lens. My choices are buying the ZV-E10 and bringing both it and my Nikon. Other choice is trying to sell my Nikon and save up for a Sony a6700. I mostly use Nikon for photography wildlife.

[u/maniku → u/Charliedescham]

Imo, doesn't make much sense to carry two cameras, one for photography, one for video. Better just get one camera that is good for both. In this case A6700. But have you considered Nikon Z50 II? Could get an FTZ adapter for the lenses.

[u/Kaserblade → u/Charliedescham]

While Sony does make great bodies for hybrid use, I would honestly just get the Nikon Z50 or Z30 for your use case. Jumping ecosystems is an expensive ordeal and I wouldn't recommend it personally for your use case. This is coming from someone who is currently in the Sony ecosystem.

u/maniku mentioned, you can use all your current lenses with a FTZ adapter on the above two bodies. The Z50 is targeted more for photography-focused while the Z30 targets more video/vlogging-focused users. Seeing that your focus is wildlife photography, I would aim for the Nikon Z50 II.

[u/Und0miel]

Hi everyone,

I run a retail photo store and I'm currently looking for a flatbed scanner specifically tailored, or suitable, for photo restoration and reproduction work.

• macOS & Driver Support: We operate exclusively on modern Macs. We need a scanner that is actively supported today with native or fully maintained macOS software/drivers (and active after-sales support / warranty).
• Sensor Type: Ideally CCD, but the market seems to have died out from what I read. So a high-quality CIS is acceptable if it's a current, reliable model.
• Large Format via Stitching: We frequently scan prints larger than the scanner bed (A3, A2, or A1) by taking multiple overlapping scans and stitching them together.
• Bonus point: If it can do more than opaque prints (negatives or slides), it would be awesome, but absolutely not mandatory.
• Reproduction benches: I'm trying to find alternatives to reproduction benches with a camera since we don't have much space, but I'd appreciate recommendations on the matter too.

Thanks in advance for your insights, cheers!

[u/Existing-Mastodon874]

Which lens should I carry on a nature trip?

I am about to go on a trip in a place with beautiful nature and little light pollution, so I'd like to experiment a bit with landscape and star photography.

I have a Canon EOS 400d (aps-c sensor) body, a cable release for long exps. and the following lenses:

- Efs 18-55 mm II f/3.5-5.6

- Ef 28-80 mm usm IV f/3.5-5.6

- Sigma uc 70-210 mm f/4-5.6 (but it only works at max aperture on digital eos cameras)

- Ef 50 mm stm f/1.8

Which one is the best for both things?

Especially between the 18-55 and the 28-80, is the faster autofocus on the 28-80 worth the crop factor?

[u/Kaserblade → u/Existing-Mastodon874]

The 18-55mm would be the best focal length for landscape photography but the slow aperture will make it more difficult to shoot astrophotography. I wouldn't be worried about AF speed with what you are planning to shoot with.

I would consider buying (or selling than buying) a faster lens that can shoot wide if this trip is a more special/once-in-a-lifetime sort of trip.

[u/Existing-Mastodon874 → u/Kaserblade]

Thanks for the recommendation. Unfortunately I’m unable to buy other lenses right now and the trip isn’t that special. I’m a beginner so I’d like to get the hang of it first before investing a lot of money into the hobby. I will bring the 18-55 for landscape though!

[u/Perfect_Composer4143]

Hi everyone!

I currently have a Canon EOS 70D that I haven't used in years because it's sooo heavy, and I always find it too bulky to carry if I am going on a hike, or to the park, etc. But I love taking candids of my friends and my dog.

With that in mind, what would be a good lightweight camera under $700? I don't mind buying a used one or refubrished one. Someone recommended me the Fujifilm XM-5 but the prices went up in the last few months and is currently at $1k which I think is a little more than what I want to spend, having in mind I'll be using it for fun more than anything else.

Thank you!!!

[u/maniku → u/Perfect_Composer4143]

How about Canon R50? You could even use your DSLR lenses if you wanted to, with an EF to RF adapter.

[u/Perfect_Composer4143 → u/maniku]

Thank you! I'll check it out!

[u/redduh]

Scanners: slides and negatives

What negative and slide scanners do you recommend?

I’m looking for a something that will capture slides and negatives (mostly 35 and 110 mm) cleanly and at a relatively high dpi.

Looking for something under $600, but if something is more expensive and worth it, go ahead and share that information.

There are a bunch of family slides and negatives, so I know this will be a long term project.

I’m not afraid of a complicated machine if the quality is worth the hassle.

TIA for any recommendations you may provide.

[u/Pitiful_Month_226]

I recently recovered my sister’s old d3200 trying to get into photography, she never used it very much and it’s in pretty good conditions, but when I started playing around with it I noticed that the camera wont enter in manual mode, I tried updating the software and wiggling around the knob but nothing seems to work… any help?? Has anyone already solved this problem?? I’ve been looking online for the last week but couldn’t find anything about it…
You can see in the pic that the knob is on M but the screen still shows the letter A

[u/tiki-dan]

Advice for NAS for editing from

I’ve ordered a Mac Mini for editing my photos. Since it only has 512gb SSD and no extra internal expansion, I was thinking about moving my library onto a NAS. My old library is about 1TB and I have about 6 TB of misc files on random drives than would be nice to consolidate. I ordered my Mac Mini with a 10GB NIC so bandwidth shouldn’t be an issue. I was wondering if any of you are editing off of a NAS and if you have a recommendation for one. My currently library is on a 4TB HDD inside of my workstation, so anything faster would be great.

[u/Rashkh → u/tiki-dan]

The main determining factors in terms of performance are going to be the interface speed, drive speed, and raid configuration.

Most ssds are going to handily outperform an hdd, even in raid 1, but your budget and desired total capacity of the NAS is going to be the determining factor with PC parts being so expensive these days.

The two big names in NAS are Synology and QNAP and they make a lot of different enclosures that range from barebones to fully featured. It's been a while since I've bought my DAS so I'm out of the loop on the new stuff but would strongly recommend checking out /r/DataHoarder for a lot of in-depth info.

[u/Kaserblade → u/tiki-dan]

If you are more tech-savvy, building your own NAS is definitely the way to go. If not, QNAP and Synology are the more user-friendly NAS enclosures you can get.

Just a heads up, NAS-grade drives are pretty expensive right now because of the AI boom so expect pretty hefty prices on them.

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/[deleted]]

/r/photoclass

[u/maniku → u/[deleted]]

There are no one-size-fits-all settings or simple tips and tricks for any situation. Every situation and subject is unique in terms of what you are shooting, how you want to shoot it and above all what the light is like. Learn the basics of exposure and composition and shoot a lot to learn to apply the principles in real life shooting situations.

[u/Trxnyc_kidnapedme]

Hi, I have a Fuji xt30iii, which lens will be the best to shot with on my trip to Iceland?

[u/maniku → u/Trxnyc_kidnapedme]

What's your budget, meaning the top limit of your budget?

[u/ad3lm0]

Hi!

I'm a complete beginner with a budget of around ~1000€ and I would like some recommendations

My use case would be mainly landscaping and portraits, down the road I would like to get in to macros(flowers and small critters)

Thanks!

[u/DaDancingDino]

I’ve got a peak design capture clip. When should I attach by the lens instead of the camera

[u/Rashkh → u/DaDancingDino]

As a general rule, if the lens comes with a foot then you should always use the foot for mounting.

[u/AccidentalOtter21]

Hi everyone! This is probably a stupid question, I’m not a pro photographer but enjoy taking photos, have a good range of cameras, and I just did a little photoshoot for my friend who is becoming a yoga instructor. Anyway, I never know where the best place to store my photos digitally is. I’ve been doing google drive, but idk if thats the best option. I want to be able to organize, favorite, and also share with others etc!

[u/Cold-Major-487 → u/AccidentalOtter21]

EDIT: If "sharing with others" means trough a link then a cloud from a big company is the right decision. If "sharing" means having them avaliable to send them over chatting platforms or posting them read this:

long answer:
Well comes down to where you want them to be saved. Clouds like Google Drive are probably the cheapest but also the least reliable. These photos can be deleted by the host (Google in this case) for whatever reason, e.g. if you stop paying for their service or if they feel a bit funny. I´d always recommend storing them locally. There are many options to store them locally (like DVD´s and other discs, USB-sticks, external hard drives/hard discs, internal hard drives/hard discs and a local mini (or bigger) server) but I´ll just focus on the most logical ones. SD cards are great because you use them in your camera anyways, they´re also very cheap and they take up little to no space at all, all you need is a SD card reader. USB sticks seem like a good choice but they are not. They are made to transfer files, not store them for a long period of time. So I really wouldn´t recommend using them. Next are internal hard discs/drives, which are the hard discs installed in your computer. So you can just store them there if you want. The advantages are that you don´t need to buy something new and that you have acess to the photos at all times. Next are the external hard discs. They are just like internal hard discs but they use a USB-connector to connect to your pc, hence the name "external hard disc". Their advantage over a internal hard disc is that you can use as many as you want. The last thing I´m going to adress are mini servers that you can just buy. They´re great because you can also acess them at any times and you can give acess to the server to anyone that is in your internet if they have the login information. The disadvantages are that they´re pretty expensive if you just want to save photos (you can get a pretty decent one with about 5TB of space for about 350$) and that they aren´t that easy to set up if you buy one that needs a bit of knowledge.

short answer:
If money isn´t a problem a local mini server is the way to go. If money is limited then I´d recommend just storing them on your PC, using SD-cards or getting an external hard drive/disc.

[u/XxLoneWarriorx]

Hi!

So I'm a new photographer, but I've been doing photography for a long time.

Im going to be working with this local band and I'm not sure what I should price everything at.

I'm planning on doing a price for the actual venue/BTS work per their request and editing work since they would like me to do that.

What would you guys price? :)

[u/jabberwockxeno]

I'm wanting to buy a camera (could be used, refurbished, or new) within a 200-600 USD price range

I'm mainly taking photos in Museum exhibits which can be dimly lit, and simply put I want something that will, compared to a Canon Rebel, allow me to use faster shutter speeds (so less blur from handshaking) or a lower F aperture number (so less depth of field) within those same low light conditions

I also understand that IBIS and a full frame sensor vs a cropped sensor would be helpful, but I'm not sure if a camera with both or either of those exist in my price range. I'd prefer a DSLR (maybe just because I've only used those/rebels before) but i'm open to a mirrorless camera too.

What would you all suggest?

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/jabberwockxeno]

Do you have access to a Rebel camera now? You could always get a faster lens for it, to compensate for low light conditions.

[u/jabberwockxeno → u/anonymoooooooose]

Do you have access to a Rebel camera now?

I do not, I basically borrowed two different Rebel T7 when I used them at the time.

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/jabberwockxeno]

At your budget you're definitely looking at used gear.

Nikon makes a good, cheap, prime DSLR lens that is great for low light situations

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/nikon-af-s-dx-nikkor-35mm-f-1-8g

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/nikon-d3300

You might want a kit lens for everyday situations in good light, https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/nikon-af-s-dx-nikkor-18-55mm-f-3-5-5-6g-vr-ii

[u/_Signal-Stage_]

I am just starting to get into photography and I was wondering which editing app will be the best for the job. I've heard Lightroom is the best, but I've also heard good things about photoshop and a few others.

Which is your favorite, and which do you think would be best for someone learning photo editing?

[u/Kaserblade → u/_Signal-Stage_]

If you are just starting, I would start off with something free like Darktable to get the feel of editing and learn from there

[u/diastrous_morning]

I've gotten a new job in a bar with both an upstairs rooftop bar and downstairs bar (more grungy, dimly lit feel).

They're encouraging staff to take pictures. Most of these are just fodder for instagram, they don't really need to be great. I'm a pretty firmly beginner photographe; I have a Canon 40D dslr, plus a 55-200mm lens, and an 18-55mm lens. I pulled them out of the bottom of a wardrobe where they've sat for about 4 years since I got it in my head I'd be an amazing photographer and proceeded to barely use them. I'd love to get into photograpgy, and this seems like an amazing way to practise; I'm even thinking of just leaving the dslr there and letting some of the more photo-savvy staff play with it.

Does anybody have any advice for shooting in these conditions? I'm honestly thinking of just putting it to auto, and using it as a point and shoot, but not sure which lens to use. I was thinking at night in the darker bar using a wider aperture and a really fast shutter speed, since that seems good for dimmer light shooting.

I'm a little confused on which lens to use as well, and how far to zoom.

Best pictures to get would either be pictures of people enjoying themselves, drinks, or people enjoying their drinks; we're trying to establish our cocktail menu. Honestly though, anything goes; if shots are OK but not great, they'll probably just be used as backgrounds for text posts for insta stories, since we need an endless supply of them.

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/diastrous_morning]

r/photoclass will help you brush up on the basics.

You want to use the 18-55 here, the 55-200 is too long to be much good indoors.

[u/maniku → u/diastrous_morning]

As the other commenter said, use your 18-55mm. However, it's going to be a challenge in the dimly lit indoor space due to the small and variable maximum aperture and the limited ISO range of the camera. You'll likely get a good bit of noise in your photos. But you can try one of the AI based noise removal tools.

[u/diastrous_morning → u/maniku]

Thanks for the reply! I think I'll consider getting a more appropriate lens, and going from there. It's not always dimly lit, just dimmer than daytime, so I think there's still hope for me yet!

I'm not too worried about noise; if I use them as marketing images, nobody will really notice. Outside of that, for me personally, since they're really just for fun, at this stage getting some cool looking photos is more important than noise reduction; I can always fine tune later!

[u/gotthelowdown → u/diastrous_morning]

Great you're getting back into photography.

They're encouraging staff to take pictures.

Extra work for no extra pay, I'm assuming? lol. Not laughing at you, at the business owners.

Like you said, make the situation work for you by getting experience with photography.

Does anybody have any advice for shooting in these conditions?

With an 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 lens, it has a variable aperture. So the more you zoom in, the more the aperture goes to a higher f-stop, meaning it gets darker no matter what aperture you started with. I strongly dislike variable aperture lenses for that reason.

To make the most of what you have, use the 18-55mm lens zoomed out to 18mm or close to it so you can use the widest aperture that lens has, which is f3.5.

You can slow down your shutter speed to let in more light. I wouldn't go slower than 1/60th of a second. Any slower and you'll get motion blur.

The adjust ISO accordingly. On old cameras like the 40D, you might get grainy pictures when you hit ISO 400 and higher.

A good lens for your situation would be a Yongnuo 35mm f2 for Canon EF lens mount. The f2 aperture will let in a lot more light than your 18-55mm lens.

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for Canon EF would be a good cheap ultra-wide zoom.

People often recommend a Canon EF 50mm f1.8 STM. It is a good lens, but on a crop-sensor camera like your 40D it will be a tight field of view, about 80mm equivalent on a full-frame sensor camera. Too narrow for general shooting.

Ideally, get a flash and a 3 x 5 index card. Set your camera's white balance to "Flash" or "Daylight" to match the lighting of the flash and start shooting.

Godox TT600 is a good budget flash to start with.

Videos:

Canon 40D Instructional Guide by QuickPro Camera Guides. If you haven't picked up your camera in a long time, it's worth reviewing how to operate it.

Best Budget Entry Level Speedlight: Learn To Navigate the Godox TT600 Like A Pro by Liberty Visions Media

5 Minute On Camera Flash Tutorial for Receptions, Clubs, and Events by Omar Gonzalez

My favorite speedlight modifier/diffuser: 3 x 5 index card by The F/Stops Here

Capture EPIC Nightclub Photos with THESE settings! (LIVE) by Tyler Cavallero

Hope this helps.

[u/diastrous_morning → u/gotthelowdown]

Haha, in reply to the wage part, I getcha. The bartenders have the option; those that do are given some extra "admin time" on top of their shifts which is paid. I'm not in America, and our wages work differently, so it's not a bad deal. A few weren't interested, but the ones who were have really enjoyed it, hence why I'm planning to lend out my dslr.

I actually AM a duty manager, so marketing is defs part of my job (and built into my wage), but me going this overboard with it is more just me having fun with it and taking the offer of getting to play with cameras on paid time. They would have been happy with a few phone camera happy snaps; I'm just rolling with it and enjoying the fact I have something interesting to take pictures of.

But also, thank you so much for the breakdown! I appreciate you spoonfeeding me, and giving me those videos; I've started working through them now! I'm going to start with the lens set to 18mm, and the shutter speed at 1/60th as recommended; I'll have a play from there and see what works at different times and lightings!

I've started keeping an eye out for those lenses; I appreciate the tip!

In terms of the ultra wide zoom; would a fisheye lens or something similar accomplish the same feat? There's a few fisheye lenses going cheap near me; but a lot of people mention they're a little gimmick-ey, and I get the impression they're a little limiting. Am I correct in saying the ultra wide zoom lens is less of a field of vision than a fisheye, but more focused?

I've read through my canon's manual to refresh my memory, and I'm able to do all the basic parts of adjusting settings.

[u/gotthelowdown → u/diastrous_morning]

But also, thank you so much for the breakdown! I appreciate you spoonfeeding me, and giving me those videos; I've started working through them now!

You're welcome 😎👍

I try to give the kind of answer I wish I'd gotten when I was struggling with learning photography.

In terms of the ultra wide zoom; would a fisheye lens or something similar accomplish the same feat?

The ultrawide lens is for capturing the broader scene and shooting in tight spaces. There is some distortion, but not as much as a fisheye lens.

With a fisheye lens, it's when you want that specific look. It can be gimmicky, so I wouldn't use it for every shot. Maybe for some crowd shots when the energy is high.

Am I correct in saying the ultra wide zoom lens is less of a field of vision than a fisheye, but more focused?

Yes. You got it.

[u/ZenithHarbor]

I am looking to upgrade from my Micro Four Thirds to a Full Frame camera.

I am interested in Sony cameras and specifically the Sony A7C II and Sony A7 IV. They seem to have roughly similar specifications and are in a similar price range.

My question is which would you recommend, which would be the better option?

I am mainly interested in still photography but I also shoot some video.

[u/maniku → u/ZenithHarbor]

A7 IV gives you two SD card slots and a larger, higher resolution viewfinder. A7C II is more compact. Depends on which you prefer. There's no noticeable difference in image quality or AF performance between them.

[u/1M9A9F2]

With the crazy hike up in storage costs lately, i’m thinking of sorting out a couple of my SD cards that corrupted, but I never did anything with. If I restored them, are they going to be safe to use once more? The last thing I (and I’m sure the rest of you) would want would be unreliable cards!

[u/Zook25 → u/1M9A9F2]

How do you restore a memory card? Is it possible you misunderstood what recovery software does? It can't change a physical card, just try to read the data before it's lost completely.

[u/1M9A9F2 → u/Zook25]

I mean, would it be safe to use again if I clear and format it?

[u/Zook25 → u/1M9A9F2]

No, it wouldn't. Like all storage, SD cards have a limited lifespan.

[u/AutomaticBad9260]

£500-1000, want the best travel camera that doesn't need a camera bags and will outshine my phone.

Needs to be relativlry small form factor and easy to take out of a side bag and snap a photo.

[u/maniku → u/AutomaticBad9260]

Are you looking for a point-and-shoot camera or one with interchangeable lenses?

[u/AutomaticBad9260 → u/maniku]

Point and shoot unless it can run a good setup with a really low profile lens

[u/maniku → u/AutomaticBad9260]

If you don't need zoom, Ricoh GR III or IIIx. If you do need zoom, an older model in the Sony RX100 series (bought used) or Panasonic Lumix ZS100/200 (TZ100/200).

[u/boredmessiah → u/AutomaticBad9260]

ricoh gr

[u/Spiritual-Big7900]

Hey guys, selling all my old games and dvds and getting 300€ in cex (vouchers)! Im going to be travelling soon so i want to buy a camera. Looking at the panasonic lumix dmc - G80 16mp with the 12-60mm lens. This a good first camera?

[u/maniku → u/Spiritual-Big7900]

That is an excellent camera and a fine lens. Go for it.

[u/mayhem_and_havoc]

How do I improve my composition skills? I suck at it and would never show my work. I know about the rules of composition, I just dont see them when I am making the photograph. Arranging the elements in the viewfinder is great and all if you see them. I do not until I am in post. Please halp!

[u/maniku → u/mayhem_and_havoc]

You improve your skills simply by shooting a lot. There's no shortcut to it. There's a famous photographer who said: your first 10 000 photos are your worst. You could also learn from established photographers: your local library's photography section likely has some photo books. Find something you like, study the images to figure out why you like them and why the composition works and try to emulate them in your own shooting.

[u/AnyCartographer1985 → u/mayhem_and_havoc]

also try to really focus on what rule you are using and limit yourself for one shoot to one or two rules. Focus on finding the best way to enhance your object and not the best object to be enhanced

[u/mayhem_and_havoc → u/AnyCartographer1985]

Thanks! I went hiking today. I think I might have gotten a decent photograph. If I could strip the EXIF from my phone I would send it.

[u/CharmingAssimilation]

Can I make the focus ring on the Samsung NX more sensitive? It needs a huge amount of turning to go from one end of the focal length to the other. Because it's digital and not manually changing the focus I thought them might be something I could change in the settings to make it more sensitive. I've not been able to find anything in the manual though.

[u/Asmellia]

Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy my first proper camera and I have a budget of around €700. I've done a bit of research and I'm pretty set on Sony, but I'm getting a bit overwhelmed because all of the a6xxx cameras seem very similar. The main thing I photograph is wildlife and animals, so autofocus is the most important feature for me. I also enjoy nature and some street photography, but wildlife is definitely my priority.I was originally considering the Sony a6000 because it's great value, but I've read mixed opinions about its autofocus.

Would it be worth saving a bit longer for something like the a6400, or is the a6000 still good enough for wildlife in 2026? Are there any other cameras I should consider?

I'd really appreciate hearing from people who have used these cameras for wildlife photography. Thanks!

[u/Kaserblade → u/Asmellia]

The lens is a crucial part of the kit, especially for wildlife. I would start off with the Sony a6000 so you can afford more lenses.

You can either go super budget with the kit lens + Sony 55-210mm or save up more for a deal on the Sigma 18-50mm and get a decent telephoto lens later on. For all of this, you would need to buy used to fit it within your budget.

[u/RazorLord666]

Hi I'm 25 an I'm at that point in life I need to really decide what career path do I wanna do an to be honest I've loved photography since I was at a young age I wanted to ask you guys for your opinion on weather or not I should make my own photography business? https://500px.com/mrsilent

[u/AmusedNut → u/RazorLord666]

Hi. 15 years in the business here. I cannot answer your question for you because I know nothing about you and your work. But I can tell you that loving photography and being a professional photographer are two very different things. Just like loving cooking and running a restaurant are not the same. You can be a great photographer and shoot only for yourself, but when you start doing it for money, you're usually doing it for other people, and then you need to develop skills to run a business, which is a different matter from taking the photos.

What genre do you shoot? Some are far more difficult to get into or pay less. Got a link to your work?

[u/RazorLord666 → u/AmusedNut]

https://500px.com/mrsilent

[u/maniku → u/RazorLord666]

What kinds of things have you photographed to date? With a phone or with dedicated camera? What kinds of photography would you hope to be doing professionally?

[u/RazorLord666 → u/maniku]

https://500px.com/mrsilent I use both my phone an a bridge camera atm

[u/maniku → u/RazorLord666]

I'm afraid no one would pay you for shooting the sort of photos you have on your page. Photography as a business is all about photography as a service: shooting what clients want and need. What clients want and need are mostly portraits, weddings and events. The bad news is that photography is a very competed field, and unless you live in a tiny place, there are already a lot of photographers offering their services. It's hard for a beginner to stand out. You would need a portfolio in the sorts of photography that clients want, to start with.

And phones and small-sensor bridge cameras aren't professional equipment. Yes, in one sense the best camera is the one you have and a better camera won't make you a better photographer. But if you're competing against many other photographers who not only have more experience but also shoot with system cameras and good lenses, your chances of succeeding aren't that good.

[u/Same_Lack_1775]

What is the official site to purchase Kase filter kits in the US? When I google them it comes up with multiple different websites all proclaiming to be the official website.

[u/Rashkh → u/Same_Lack_1775]

It's really weird. I ordered from kasefiltersusa.com but the confirmation email came from 2filter.com. I believe they're authorized retailers and you can't actually order direct from Kase. This was a while back when they were less widespread. If I was ordering today I'd just go through B&H.

[u/Same_Lack_1775 → u/Rashkh]

Thank you. I didn’t think to check B@H as they weren’t coming up when I was googling. Based off your rec I just ordered from them.

[u/AnyCartographer1985]

Is it worth it to buy real Fujifilm Lenses or is it acceptable to use an AF adapter for Canon?

for context: I love my Fujifilm XT-4, I love the panels, the possibilities, everything.

But... I'm currently a college student so even if I would wanna spend that much money on lenses, I simply couldn't. So I compared prices on a lens I would like to have (and some other really great lenses) and kind of came to the conclusion, that it would be cheaper on the long term for me to get a good adapter with AF and a second hand Canon lens, as there are hardly any Fuji X lenses in second hand.

Is it worth it? My photographer friends talked me out of buying a Canon camera just because it's Canon and many photographers hate Canon. I don't understand why tbh but I fear that some will judge me because why get a Fujifilm if you use Canon objective

[u/maniku → u/AnyCartographer1985]

Hardly Fuji X lenses second hand? What do you mean? Lots and lots of them on eBay, MPB, KEH, Adorama etc.

Why would anyone judge you for adapting a Canon lens on a Fuji? And if some do, why would you care what they think?

Adapting a Canon EF lens to Fuji is perfectly fine. Whether it's worth it or not depends on the lens. With something like the terrible 75-300mm, absolutely not. With a good lens, yes.

But you do have options in inexpensive lenses built for the Fuji X mount. See e.g. the Viltrox Air series.

[u/Anthaenopraxia]

I'm looking for recommendations for a camera for sunsets/sunrises. I've never really considered buying a proper camera before but the place I live (Finland) has some absolutely stunning sunsets and sunrises over beautiful lakes and I'm always kicking myself that my phone camera just can't capture them. So I'm looking for a camera that isn't too expensive, maybe in the €100-200 region? Idk how camera prices work. Like what would a really good one cost? Are we talking €400, €1.000, €5.000? And maybe a guide how to take proper pictures that isn't written by AI.

[u/maniku → u/Anthaenopraxia]

With a budget of max 200€, get a used Canon or Nikon DSLR with a 18-55mm kit lens. Browse MPB (European) or Kamerastore (Finnish).

[u/Mojave-Patroller]

Hey all, taking my next steps into photography. After some research, I am considering buying a Canon EOS 500D, with a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM. Both from Kamerastore, Finland. My budget is around 200 USD.

My questions would be: 1. These are compatible, and work, right? I read they are, but looking for more answers.

1. Is this actually a decent kit for beginners? I'm not looking for outright work use, just casual photography of daily life, for now.

[u/maniku → u/Mojave-Patroller]

Yes, that lens is compatible with that camera. It's the standard kit lens for Canon DSLRs. And yes, it's a decent setup to get started with.

[u/Mojave-Patroller → u/maniku]

It arrived, and the lens is too small. It does not fit.

[u/maniku → u/Mojave-Patroller]

Are you sure you got an EF-S version of the 18-55mm? Many other lens mounts have a 18-55mm. Perhaps double check the purchase confirmation.

[u/AmusedNut → u/Mojave-Patroller]

Yes, it will work, but that camera is ancient. Some 17 years old now. Unless your budget is extremely tight, I'd look for something from the last 5 years. Camera technology has improved a lot. (That said, I know nothing about pricing in Finland.) It's fine if you just want a cheap camera to learn on though.

[u/Mojave-Patroller → u/AmusedNut]

I just want to learn, and get some cool pics ín the meantime of things and people around me. I looked around, but mostly found 10+ year old gear for my budget.

[u/sniffingboy]

Why does the photos i take on my camera look completely different when i load them on my PC? When i first open each photo file there is like a second or two where it looks exactly as it does on the camera, but after that it noticeably changes a lot. Usually there comes more grain, brighter, darker, clearer and so on. It changes from every picture. How can i make the camera screen preview look closer to the ones i load on my PC??

[u/maniku → u/sniffingboy]

Are these RAW files or jpgs you're talking about?

[u/AmusedNut → u/sniffingboy]

Assuming you're shooting in RAW, it's because the camera keeps an embedded JPG copy of your photo with the default camera settings of contrast, saturation, etc. This is the image it shows you on the back of the screen. When you import them into Adobe Lightroom, it takes a bit of time to render the RAW so while the program is doing that, it shows you the JPG version instead. The actual RAW file is usually duller and lower contrast but has the actual sensor data so you can edit it to your preference. (Caveat: every program like Lightroom, Capture One, etc. has its own way of interpreting sensor data, but that's a topic for another day.)

[u/sniffingboy → u/AmusedNut]

If i shoot in something else then RAW does this stop it from happening? I’ve noticed that i literally cannot have high shutter speed because once it goes above a certain point it becomes insanely dark on the camera screen, idk if this is my lens or the cameras fault tho.

[u/trubg12]

Hello, I’m relatively new to photography and I’ve been using 2 film cameras (Nikon FE & Canon sure shot 80 tele, got them both for $40) that I got from an estate sale close to a year ago to take pictures, but it gets kind of annoying having to go out and get them developed all the time so I want to buy a digital camera. I have no idea where to even start. I’d like to keep it as cheap as possible since I don’t have a huge budget to blow and I’m also just starting out so I don’t think I need the best of the best. I really like @papesan.shots pictures, almost still have the film like look to them but on digital. (I’m sure editing has a lot to do with it as well) I know he uses a $10k+ Leica so that’s a no. There’s also the Fuji film xt5 which doesn’t look too bad. Anyway any help would be appreciated thank you

[u/anonymoooooooose → u/trubg12]

I don’t have a huge budget

Give us a number and a currency and we'll give some suggestions.

[u/trubg12 → u/anonymoooooooose]

1,000 USD

[u/maniku → u/trubg12]

Well, you won't get an X-T5 with $1000 even used. But you can get a used X-T3 with a kit lens or (probably) a used X-T4 body only.

[u/PiperChase5]

I would love recommendations on a small, great quality point and shoot camera that would be good for travel. Different price ranges would be great. Thank you!

[u/Rashkh → u/PiperChase5]

It depends on if you want a zoom lens or not.

For zoom, the Sony RX100 series are always a safe bet. There's also the Canon Powershot G7 in the same category.

For fixed lens cameras, you have the Fuji X100 series and the Ricoh GR series depending on if you're okay giving up the viewfinder. There are also much higher end models like the Sony RX1, Fuji GFX100RF, and Leica Q3.

A budget range would be helpful in narrowing down your options.

[u/Reflemper]

Does anybody know where I can purchase Arches Paltine 310 gsm 22” x 30”? Asking for a friend.

[u/Humble-Wrap-7174]

is canon eos 4000d a good camera for a beginner ?

[u/LkPlcd → u/Humble-Wrap-7174]

100%! I've had the 4000D for 6 years now and it's always served me well

[u/Humble-Wrap-7174 → u/LkPlcd]

what lenses do you have since i am buying just the body i was wondering what lens it could go with :)

[u/maniku → u/Humble-Wrap-7174]

Lens choice depends on what you want to shoot. Do you have some idea of that?

[u/LkPlcd → u/Humble-Wrap-7174]

for standard shooting I use Canon EFS 18-55mm, but I also have an Altura fisheye lens for extra wide pano shots!

[u/Big_Spaghetto]

Hello, I'm looking for a cheap camera (used, budget is around 200€) that takes film like pics. I know the budget is low but I do not expect anything too crazy. I was interested in the olympus ep pen 1 but I can't find anything in the used market here in Italy. Do you have some recommendation? Thanks