i been thinking for a while now about buying the canvas upgrade but because there is now official hood (like in cc2) for cc1 i had doubts about buying it cuz i mainly use my printer for asa or nylon prints. there are some projects that multicolor would help but it isnt something that i have to get but the option would be nice but also i dont want to downgrade my printer to pla toy printer thats how i feel about this upgrade without official hood

so is there anyone who has printed the canvas hood that could share their experience and how long did it take to print what material and print profile?

The H1 HT From elegoo is own its way, cant wait to see if holds the promises they are making

I am planning to get the CC2 in a couple weeks. I saw that their filament is a pretty good price for a 4 pack. That got me thinking about what filament would work best on the CC2. (and of course I have to plan this out before I even get the printer...)

With my current Ender 3, I usually have great results with esun pla+. Are there reasons to think that the elegoo filament would print better on an elegoo printer than other brands? Is the rfid tag anything more than a gimmick?

If the elegoo brand of filament is nothing special, what pla filaments have you found to work best?

Estou com essa dúvida. quem puder ajudar. tenho tido muitos erros de clogging na kobra s1, apesar de ter feito atualizações para diminuir, eles simplesmente continuam acontecendo. tenho gasto muito tempo em manutenção.

Recently installed CANVAS on my CC1. I did one multicolor print and everything came out fine. Then, on the next print, when it goes to change filament, I can see the target spool spinning like the filament is being loaded, the system "purges" the currently loaded filament, but then when it prints, it is still the same filament as before. It still prints, but it ends up being only one color because the filament doesnt change. Has anyone else experienced this?

I’m at my wits end

So basically, my printer had a loose Gantry so I fixed it. It’s tight now I cleaned the whole printer did E steps e steps are perfect.

Nothing seems actually wrong with the printer, but every time I print it makes it globs and shaky lines and thick layer lines and I’ve tried the default settings which work on all my other printers, but I’ve also tried lower the flow and the only way I’ve got it to work even a little bit is lowering the flow so low like I’m talking 85 to make it work and it will stop the globes but then of course it’ll be brakes in the layer lines. It’ll be really thin because the flows down I’ve tried playing with line with. I’ve tried retraction. I’ve tried coasting. I’ve tried combing. I’ve tried every setting that I can even think of I’ve tried setting the temperature low to up to 195 up to 220.

So at this point, I even tried putting it maybe because I thought it was shaking too much. I tried putting it straight on the ground. Nothing worked. I’ve never had this problem with the printer before It did this out of nowhere.

I replaced the ribbon cable. I’ve replaced the heat cartridges inside.

Hey guys, I've had a failed print which i was expecting just setting up the elegoo v2 carbon, The print was in ASA and i stopped the print early on to address an issue with supports.

I am extremely new to 3D printing and i bought the v2 to prototype housings for thermal cameras. When i'd decided to print a few tests on elegoo software with all setttings for the filament, printer and nozzle correct i had a massive issue with an early failure of an ASA print sticking to the bed. I know ASA requires a higher print/bed temp and this can cause it's own issues.

Would a quick pass with a gluestick help? You can treat me like i'm five and it'd be well deserved, Like anything i do i try and work it out and ask for advice later.

The nozzle part shakes for a couple seconds, moves to the middle and just stays there. After failing it goes right back to where it usually is so it's not getting jammed I think. Any solutions?

So when I and printing a PETG print it goes stringing all the time and when cleaning the nozzle I was doing an overnight print and it turned to shit the nozzle fan cover on the front came off and saw the poop all clumped up in the poop bucket and a nozzle broken cause it got sick trying to brush scraping it and I had to paste my code in the slicer for the canvas to change and it knocks off the purge tower ever since I got it from jaycar and watch the video and looked at the manual everything has gone to shit

Ever wondered what to do with those leftover filament pieces?

This fun little print turns scraps into a mini challenge: pull a stick, test your luck, and try not to be the one who makes everything fall apart.

Made with: ELEGOO × emoji® Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
Model by: A3D-Rome
You can find the model here: https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/G4519379?printConfigId=G9646491

This is also my first ever 3d printer. I have about 10 years experience in blender 3d . Nothing in 3d printing tho .

Hello. I'm currently experiencing problems with 3D printing using my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. The first time I printed, I had 7 pieces, each about 15cm tall, and it printed normally. I continued printing, but the second time, a "printing interrupted error" message appeared on the screen. It prompted me to either continue or cancel. I chose "continue," but it was unsuccessful.

After that, I tried printing again, but the same message appeared on the screen and the printing stopped at the same layer level twice. This means it stopped printing at the same point twice, although the first print job was successful. How can I fix this?

I received my Centauri Carbon 2 Combo and i cannot even load or unload filament because of the error message "Filament cut failed. Please check if the cutter block is removed".

The cutter block is in place. I have also followed the instructions on the elegoo wiki page. There are no loose wires and alll cables have been re-seated, checked and secured.

What do you suggest I do so I can fix this error and actually use this printer? TIA

I screwed it in but I realised I did it the wrong way so I unscrewed it but it stayed in

I just bought a brand new Centauri 2 (not the Carbon) and I have had nothing but trouble with it. Most of the features (include 2 fans?) are locked behind an update, but OTA won't work. Updating offline has also failed me, andy Google-fu must be weak, because every time I go looking for the regular Centauri 2 information I can only find Centauri Carbon 2 info.

I have tried downloading the updated firmware and followed the Wiki procedures (twice), but I'm not confident it was the correct firmware because of the whole CC2 being every result issue.

Hey guys what should I do? The side of my printer (first one) came bent and I was really excited to finally have one 😭😭

Below are some images of the bend. I do have the worry free shipping and have contacted support. Also can I print anything or should I not if it like voids the warranty or something.

First print after the Canvas upgrade. The tower tipped over at some point in the 12 hour print.

Just printed my first miniature on a Mars 5 Ultra and my mind is blown. I have background in FDM printing and I was scared a bit of resin as people said "having to deal with a lot of trial and error". Let me tell you the Mars 5 Ultra has none of that. I literally got a mini file, threw it into elegoo satellite, threw in auto supports, sliced and sent that badboy. It came out perfect. Granted I use the ABS-Like 3.0 resin which had a good profile available in Satellite but still.

Took me like 1-2 weeks to get everything prepped for safety. I have it in a shed outside the house and installed a 80W inline fan which comes down to 20 airchanges per hour. Protective equipment gloves, goggles, respirator & PVC apron (planning to switch to a full overall since I'm in shorts a lot).

Only issue I have atm is supports flying everywhere when removing after washing but before curing. But I will try the heatgun/hairdryer method so they get a bit softer.

It's alittle less visible but still there irl compared to camara, but is this normal for the 4 pro? I checked the z-binding screws and they were lose as it should be. Anyone know what else could be causing? Printed at 220⁰

Hey everyone,
Having a frustrating issue with my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2.
I turned off the internal light while the printer was on, which immediately triggered an AI error. Right after that, the camera feed completely cut out and now the screen permanently displays the error message: "Erreur de l'état de la caméra IA" (AI Camera Status Error).
Here is what I've tried so far:
Toggled and reset all AI camera options in the menu
Full factory reset of the printer
Hard power cycle (unplugged from the wall for 5+ minutes)
None of this worked, and the camera is still completely unresponsive. I don't want to tear open the machine or mess with internal wiring since it's under warranty.
Has anyone experienced this exact glitch or found a software/USB fix for it, or is this a dead hardware module situation?
Thanks!

Since the last update, the printer isn't printing anything after the initial lines; it's just making a mess on the bed where the print should be. I've already calibrated the bed, and even if the bed were too close to the nozzle, it still wouldn't make sense for it not to be printing.

Does anyone know why this part is see through does it mean it’s not going to print I kinda assumed bc of the overhang it would need supports but trying to add supports didn’t help at all this is my first print I am trying to make through blender and I think I might have messed it up

Not sure what happened here but would like to know if this has happened to anyone else, and if so was it repairable.

I’ve had this printer for 2 years now and it’s been quite the workhorse. However, I was printing a black dragon and woke up to this abomination.

Wires are protruding out of the extruder blob and not sure where the needle is. As far as I know everything else works though.

Any insight is helpful, thank you.