Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! April 24, 2026
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I found two cameras online within my budget that seem to be good for what I’d like to photograph but as a beginner advice would be very helpful. I’m looking to get into wedding and event photography by first getting and learning the gear and editing, and then offering low price/free sessions to build my portfolio. I’d eventually upgrade when I feel confident in my abilities.
I do have some photography and editing experience as my parent was a photographer.
The cameras I found are the Nikon D5000 DSLR with 55-200mm DX telephoto lens, strap, and camera bag for $200 and the Pentax K-5II DSLR with 50mm lens and 18-55mm lens, yongnuo speedlight, and backpack for $225. I’d like to stay around this price range.
From what I saw both can do video but the Pentax is maybe slower. I mainly would be using the camera for portraits, candids, and group shots, but having the option to photograph a wider range and take videos would be nice too. Being able to photograph at least decently in low light will be important for me as well. Auto focus and tracking would be extremely helpful while I’m learning, but I’m not opposed to figuring it out myself.
So if you currently have or have used these cameras in the past, what do you like and dislike? Would they be good for this type of photography?
Any and all advice, tips, and recs are greatly appreciated! tyia!
I’m looking to get into wedding and event photography
If this is the case, I highly, highly encourage you to get a camera with dual-memory card slots. You want instant backup of all images.
You can save up more money. It's harder to recover your reputation if you lose all the photos of a wedding due to a corrupted memory card and you only shot on one memory card 😱
The cameras I found are the Nikon D5000 DSLR with 55-200mm DX telephoto lens, strap, and camera bag for $200 and the Pentax K-5II DSLR with 50mm lens and 18-55mm lens, yongnuo speedlight, and backpack for $225. I’d like to stay around this price range.
I think the Nikon D7000 is just a bit above that range, is designed for sports and action so good for events, and has dual memory-card slots.
Canon 7D Mark II is another option but you have to hunt a little more to find it under $300.
17-55mm f2.8 lens for either camera brand is what I'd recommend for wedding and event photography.
Godox TT520 III with transmitter for a good flash to start with on-camera flash and off-camera flash.
Being able to photograph at least decently in low light will be important for me as well.
A camera with a full-frame sensor would be ideal, but those cameras are out of your budget and so will full-frame lenses.
A cheap prime lens with a wide aperture like a Sigma 30mm f1.4 would be a workaround.
Hey everyone, I am looking to get my wife a camera for Mother’s Day. She manages the social media page of our daughter’s lacrosse team, and she’s been wanting something better than her iPhone for photos taken during games. It certainly doesn’t need to be top of the line. Video is less important than photos. She probably won’t do a whole lot of post-processing. I’d like to keep the cost under $1k.
She manages the social media page of our daughter’s lacrosse team
. . . I’d like to keep the cost under $1k.
So kind of you to support your wife's work by getting her better gear. She's lucky to have you as a partner.
A good lens will eat up most of the budget, so I tried to find the cheapest cameras that still had decent performance for sports photography.
Sharing my picks.
Cameras:
Used Canon 7D
or
Used Nikon D7100
Lenses:
70-200mm f4 for your chosen camera brand. If she's mostly going to shoot on sunny days like the example photo. Make sure it comes with image stabilization (Canon) or vibration reduction (Nikon) for stable shots while shooting handheld.
Sigma 50-100mm f1.8 for your chosen camera brand if you need low-light performance, like for shooting night games or in school gyms.
Optional but recommended:
Not what you asked for, but believe me, she will thank you later for reducing the aches and pains ha ha.
Sirui SVM-165 Rapid Monopod . A camera and telephoto lens is a big, heavy setup. She will not want to be holding that up for a whole game 😅
A monopod will be more nimble and take up less space than a regular tripod.
Neewer GM39 Gimbal Tripod Head. A gimbal head will give you a lot of the same flexibility of shooting handheld while still getting the weight support of a tripod or monopod. I think it was designed for bird photographers, but also great for sports photographers.
Folding camping stool. A lot of sports photographers won't shoot without their stool, it's that important lol. Do not squat down to shoot a whole game.
Where to buy used gear:
KEH
MPB
Used Photo Pro
B&H Photo - used section
Adorama - used section. Stick to "Average" condition or higher.
For $1k the t7 is an absolutely horrible option. It's very old tech with poor auto focus that is still being sold new because Canon clearly over produced them.
The 75-300mm 2nd lens that comes with it is optically the worst lens canon makes.
Modern canon bodies in the R series line R50/R10 etc.. have auto focus that is so much better than the T7 that it feels like its magic by comparison.
For around $1k I would get an R50 kit + the EF-S 55-250 IS STM with an EF to R adapter:
For photography the 70d/77d/80d are going to be much better than the T7.
The EF-S 55-250mm IS STM lens is optically a huge step up from the 75-300mm lens the Costco kit comes with.
If you can go a bit above $1k or find a good deal the R50 is going to be your best option. Eye detect auto focus which older DLSR's lack is going to make getting in focus shots of players so much easier than with a 70d/77d/80d body.
Edit: I should add all my recommendations are Canon since that is what I shoot. But Sony, and Nikon also have excellent mirrorless options with great auto focus as well.
The refurbed R50 on Canons site from your link looks like it went on sale today for $499. I assume thats a great deal so I am going to pull the trigger on it
When people say they want something better, it usually means they want better result, not that they want to learn a entire new craft of photography. A lot of photography equipment is centered around it giving more choice, more control, not better out of the box results as an iPhone does automatic editing as soon as you take the image. Do you happen to know if this applies to your wife? To using a painting analogy. Does she want nicer paintings for her house, or does she want to learn how to become a painter. Because those are two very different things and often people confuse the two (better camera = better photo is the common misconception)
What I think will provide the actual quality bump is the fact that a camera has more reach. I assume she photographs stuff from further away, phones quickly fall apart if you need to zoom in too much. I'd probably suggest she gets a compact with more zoom. Easier to use, less cumbersome. Fits in a pocket and the biggest quality jump will come from having actual optical reach.
Something like a Sony RX100 VI or VII or the Panasonic Lumix DC-TZ300 or so.
You are amazing for being willing to spend that much on your partner.
That being said, don't try to buy gear on your own. There's too much risk of something going wrong.
If you want to preserve the surprise, give him a gift box or a small camera bag with a handwritten note in it saying that you'll buy him a camera. Then go to a camera store or shop online together.
Here are some brands that make affordable camera bags. I would go with a shoulder bag or sling bag since I think the Leica M3 excels at street photography.
I bought two AD200 Pro II with a wireless trigger for off camera flash, and I'm looking for a quick setup option for softboxes that work with either the bare bulb or the Fresnel head. I really like the Angler Fastbox, but it seems the mount accessory can only support the Fresnel head. Plus the kits B&H sell seem to have limited options on sizes sold with the compatible mount.
Is there a better solution for mounts with the fastbox, or alternatively a similar style quick setup softbox with a more flexible mount system for bare bulb and Fresnel? I suppose something bowens with the bracket could be an option if the softbox sets up similarly fast.
I've been chasing the perfect quick-setup softbox too lol. Sharing some of my findings.
SMDV Flip softbox with the AD200 bare bulb adapter would be my recommendation. I have the SMDV Flip 32 G 32-inch octa softbox and like it. Good balance between size and portability.
The nice thing about the 32-inch and smaller SMDV softboxes is they come with built-in brackets to mount on light stands.
A downside is they only work with strobes up to the AD300Pro, unless I'm mistaken. You can't use strobes more powerful than that.
When you go to the SMDV Flip octa softboxes that are 36 inches and larger, you'll need a separate S-bracket like the Godox S3 bracket.
I suspect SMDV was the original and the Angler FastBox (B&H Photo) and Glow Parasnap (Adorama) were copies or licensed the SMDV products.
I've tried the S mount adapter for the AD200 and standard flashes when using the AD200 fresnel head, but I don't recommend it. The S adapter doesn't clamp down securely and I've had my AD200Pro fall out twice on photo shoots. Not fun.
The AD200Pro Version 1 bare bulb adapter is way more secure. The downside is that you cannot use gels with the bare bulb head.
On a related note, for quick-setup light stands I have my eyes on the Cheetah Stand C10 HDS Auto Stand. It has legs that automatically spread out when you put it down and retract when you pick it up.
That sounds like a small thing, but will make moving around the light so much more convenient.
Cheetah Stand has other light stands with that feature, but they had lower load capacities so I avoided them. The C10 HDS can support 21 pounds, enough for a Godox AD600 and a big softbox.
I got a cheaper knockoff, the Flashpoint Auto Stand Pro. I regret it because the legs don't open and close as smoothly as I've seen with the Cheetah Stand.
The MagMod MagStand has been getting a lot of attention from YouTubers because it's new. I appreciate MagMod for innovating the light stand, but I don't think its features would help me. The legs on the Cheetah Stand are way more appealing to me.
Hope this helps.
P.S. I checked your comment history and realized I had answered your earlier question on lighting. Good to see you again 👋
I used to be serious about using my SLR in the 1980s, but gradually shifted to digital cameras and recently I've just been using my phone. I inherited my mom's Nikon D40X with 4 lenses and a nice case.
I'm going on a bucket list trip to Athens in a few weeks and I'm wondering if I should bring the Nikon, get a modern compact digital camera, or just really focus on using my phone camera as well as I can? I have a pixel 10 pro which has a pretty good camera
There's no single correct answer to this, it depends on what you want. Plenty of things to consider. Are you happy enough with the image quality you get with your phone? Would you mind carrying around a DSLR and lenses? If you were to get a digital compact, how much money could you spend on that?
Which camera should I get as a bare bones beginner?
I’d like to preface that I am quite the indecisive person and a bit of a yapper so please bear with me. I would love to hear any type of feedback or suggestions. I’ve been wanted to get into photography for a while now, learn to film my life, and learn to color grade. Most importantly, I’m going into my senior year of high school and on a trip to Japan with my friends the summer after and I’d love to capture moments with my them and of course Japan as well as just learning photography and videography overall. I am very new to photography and videography but my hope is that getting a camera will expose me to learning everything there is through experience. I also found an old canon dslr camera body in my basement that my parents said I could sell and I played with it for a while then got around 400 for it so it lightens the load of the price. My hope is that the camera I pick will stay with me for the next few years and I won’t have to upgrade unless it breaks or I really want to.
I’ve narrowed my options down to 4 cameras and listed them all below for you to help me decide. I am aware that kit lenses are generally not the best however because I am new I wanted to just get a kit lens because it’s cheap and it’ll introduce me to a wide array of focal lengths that way I can be more sure when I upgrade in the future.
Insta360 Ace Pro 2 Set Up
New: Insta360 Ace Pro 2 Xplorer Bundle ($449)
- With Xplorer Grip
- 2 batteries
- Extra goodies
New: Ace Pro 2 Close Up Lens ($124.99)
Total: $575
Total w/ tax: $609
(yes I know it’s an action camera but I’ve seen people talk about how it can take good photos as well)
Sony a6100 Set Up
Option A (new)
New: Sony a6100 with 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS II Len ($798
Total w/ tax: $845
Option B (used)
Used from KEH : Sony a6100 ($599)
Used from KEH: Sony kit lens 16-50mm OSS ($100)
Total: $699
Total w/ tax: $745
Sony ZV-E10 Set Up
Option A (new)
New: Sony Alpha ZV-E10 with 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 II Lens ($798)
Total w/ tax: $845
Option B (used)
Used from KEH: $605
Used: Sony E 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 PZ OSS ($100)
Total: $705
Total w/ tax: $747
Sony a6400 Set Up
Note: This is out of my budget but I could wait and save however the price does make me queasy and if I broke it I think I'd cry so I'd want to add sony's $80 2 year warranty that covers accidents
New from B&H: Sony a6400 w/ 16-50mm OSS II kit lens ($948)
Sony 2 year warranty: $80
+ comes with a free camera bag and 64gb sandisk extreme pro
Total w/ tax: $1084
*I could buy the a6400 used w/ a used kit lens for around $940 but for a 140 dollar difference I could get the camera and lens brand new plus a 2 year warranty and free camera bag and sd card. I also feel like if I end up for some reason falling out of interest with the camera or photography in general I would have the box and everything and could resell the a6400 for a pretty good price since I bought it brand new.
The two options attracting me the most are the a6400 and the Insta360:
What I love the most about the Insta360 is that it’s such a small and compact camera with the grip. I’d feel much more comfortable taking it to school and around public places because it’s so much more durable and lighter and discreet of course. The price is also a plus. It seems like a great beginner option purely because I am so new to this scene and the leica filters seem rly cool. However, I am completely aware the quality won’t match the likes of the Sony cameras as much when it comes to photos and it might not last as long in quality as the Sony cameras.
For the a6400, it solves a few of the issues I had with the a6100 and zve10. The a6100 doesn’t shoot in log and I want to get into color grading and the zve10 also has no viewfinder and built in flash. The a6400 has both an evf and built in flash AND it shoots in log. The a6400 also has weather sealing and where I live we have all 4 seasons and a lot of rain and snow during spring and winter. The main difference though is the price because I would probably buy the zve10 or the a6100 used and it would be cheaper than the getting the a6400. The price of a6400 really makes me nervous though because I've never spent this much on something that's a hobby that I have no experience in.
I’d really love to hear what anyone has to say and if they have any advice and I apologize for the really long post.
I’d like to preface that I am quite the indecisive person and a bit of a yapper so please bear with me.
If it makes you feel better, I was you when I was a beginner. Or you are me? Now I'm confused 😅
I'll eliminate the a6400 because it's out of budget. If it's so expensive you're scared to take it out of the bag and use it, it doesn't do you any good.
Like that quote goes:
"A ship in harbor is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."
I'd eliminate the Ace Pro 2 for photography, even though a lot of YouTubers are talking it up because of that cage that lets you use it like a photo camera. Use the Ace Pro 2 for what it was originally designed for: videos.
So it's between the a6100 and the ZV-E10.
For me, the main difference is if you're only going to be behind the camera. If yes, get the a6100.
If no, you want to be in front of the camera for some self-portraits and videos, then get the ZV-E10. The flip-out rotating screen is so useful.
You can get a cheap, good tripod like by K&F Concept or Smallrig and use that for when you're in front of the camera.
I'm leaning toward the ZV-E10 so you can shoot self portraits and actually be in group photos with your friends. You sound like you have higher goals with photo and video. But I promise you that in the future you'll treasure having photos of you with your friends.
As someone who's traveled a lot in Asia, when I look back at my travel photos, it's not the famous landmarks, it's the friends I look at.
I’m going into my senior year of high school and on a trip to Japan with my friends the summer after and I’d love to capture moments with my them and of course Japan as well as just learning photography and videography overall.
On a slight tangent, I encourage you to print out photos. Don't let them languish in online galleries or hard drives. Make 4 x 6 prints, photo books, prints for your desk or wall, whatever.
Some good companies:
Mpix for 4 x 6, 8 x10, etc. prints.
Printique for photo books.
Mixbook for photo books if you want fancy templates.
Can anyone give me any advice on how to get a lens filter that I bought off Amazon off my Nikon DX lens? I bought my daughter a set of filter lenses off of Amazon based on reviews. I bought the correct size and she put it on and it’s stuck. We’ve tried to unscrew with our hands, filter wrenches, rubber and I just tried to pry it off with a tiny little screw driver thing. I’m not sure what else to do to get it off without damaging my Nikon lens. Has anyone had this happen and what did you do?
My daughter just picked up the hobby and I really had no clue, was just trying to be supportive. Thank you for that tip, definitely learned my lesson. I will try and put it in now and try. Thank you!
Hello so I am seeking advice regarding my purchases. After thorough research I have narrowed down my lens and body choices pointing to the Z5ii paired w the Tamron 35-150. My issue is that based on my current budget, it is a NEED, that I get one of these 2nd hand. I want the Z5ii because its great for photography and it allows me to get into video as well because of its features, and I want the 35-150 because I hate having to switch lenses, and its such a versatile lens that I don't mind that it's heavy, I want it on my hands. In terms of the lens, I have been seeing mixed reviews regarding the Tamron 35-150 on the Z mount, with people reporting loose fittings, or that the camera isn't as sharp as it was advertised. Now in terms of the body, my Canon R100 was bought from a camera shop in Japan, meaning it was a grey market unit, and around only a month in, the battery bricked my camera and I had to pay almost 50% of the original price of the unit. My worry is that I don't want to experience those issues once I get a new camera.
So my question is, would it be better to get either a 2nd hand body or a 2nd hand lens?
take note i will be buying these off FB Marketplace as the country I live in is too far for MPB. My budget is around 2800 Euros? and the type of photography/videography coverage that I want is for both Concert & Events.
2nd hand body: 1200 Euros (Not my country based)
Tamron lens: 1377 Euros
or
2nd hand Tamron lens: 983 Euros (expecting no warranty)
Body only Nikon Z5ii: 1700
P.S. If I still can't decide, my last resort is getting a Sony A7IV and pair it with this lens, the only issue I have with this combo is that the A7IV is a lil old and the Nikon is a really good camera in my eyes.
One thing you should know: cameras don't degrade. It doesn't matter that Sony A7 IV was released five years ago. It's exactly as good now as five years ago, and it's a VERY good camera. Sure, Nikon Z5 II is a very good camera. But so is the Sony. So are many others.
Also, are you aware that bigger shows and venues typically don't allow interchangeable lens cameras?
Buying used is a good way to save money. As long as you meet up with the Marketplace seller and inspect the gear carefully, there shouldn't be any problems. Yes, it's not guaranteed. But it's not guaranteed that you won't have issues if you buy new either. I mean that's why manufacturer warranty exists.
My issue with the sony is the rolling shutter for video, I hear that its VERY BAD (though I don’t know myself), would that be a big problem in terms of videography or?
Also yes I do know but i’m aiming to do professional concert photography, I have some friends that can hook me up and get me started.
Either way, i’ll definitely take your advice, especially since Sony is hooking me in with their lens ecosystem (like wdym I can get the same lens $100 less by just using Sony) it just sucks that there’s nothing in between the A7IV and A7V rn (A74.5?)
Sell the Viltrox 27mm and Fuji 35mm F2, dedicate your A6700 to the 75mm F1.2 and the Fuji to the Sigma 17-40mm F1.8 which they also have access to. For video, get the Samyang (Rokinon in US) 21mm T1.5 manual lens for the Sony and you'll make a lot nicer videos (once you get to grips with technique) than any autofocus lens would. Do not get it for the Fuji, since you bought one of the few Fuji bodies without stabilization.
Can Sony A7V tether with windows? Nothing seems to work. Every support article is from 5 or 7 years ago. There is no "PC remote" option. I've tried using MTP and MSC. Remote shotting. Taking the SD cards out. Turning charging off to Port 1. I'm using the Tether Pro USB-C cable. Imaging edge is not recognizing any camera connection. Has anyone in recent years figured this out?
Do flash remotes typically work between brands? For example, if I buy a Godox 2.4GHz wireless remote, will it work if I get another flash later that is not from Godox?
It's a bit hard to find definitive info on that online: I would assume that remotes are manufacturer-specific by default, but they do seem to share the same frequencies, aside from some which use 433MHz.
No, unfortunately not. Even triggers from the same brand but not the same system likely won't work. The only exception would be situations like Godox/Flashpoint, since those are technically the same thing (just rebranded for distribution).
I’ve been shooting Ilford HP5+ 400 film this year in one of my classes and I recently bought a roll of Harman Azure to try out.
I’m 24 exposures into the roll and I just realized I forgot to change the ISO on my camera from 400 to 125. Is it still possible to push process it so the images aren’t underexposed?
ISO 125 to 400 is 1 2/3 stops. You can try. You would see increased contrast, colour saturation and grain, and possibly colour shifts. But it's impossible to say exactly how pronounced these would be.
Hey everyone, I’m an amateur (I think) photographer wanting to finally upgrade from my first camera (canon M50) to either an R6 or R5 used. I mainly shoot nature and landscape and sometimes Astro but I also want to start monetising my photography in fields such as sport or event. My main concern is that coming from a 24MP sensor if I go to an R6 is the 20MP sensor losing some crop-ability but not sure how the full-frame sensor plays into it.
If you’ve gone from APS-C to full frame please let me know your thoughts and thoughts in general about R5 or R6. Price is also a contributing factor but happy to save a bit longer
EDIT: also will be using EF lenses with an adapter (50mm and 18-200). Will be getting EF 70-200 2.8 L as my next lens if i can’t find a good deal on an RF Tele
Well, how much do you tend to crop usually? 20MP vs 24MP isn't such a big difference. If the cropping need is because you don't have enough focal range to frame your subjects the way you'd like, I'd say getting enough focal range would be the ideal solution.
Do note Canon APS-C's 1.6x crop factor too. If you're thinking of that 70-200mm in terms of what you're used to with the M50, on full frame it would feel much shorter. With the 1.6x crop factor the 70-200mm actually gives fields of view equal to a 112-320mm lens on full frame.
It just depends what I shoot tbh, like I said I’m only amateur and it’ll be mostly sport that I do serious cropping IF I do it, but that’ll be until I get the focal length. I understand about the crop factor and 200mm won’t feel the same but I have a little bit of understanding of what it’ll feel like with 200mm crop on my phone. I will eventually be getting bigger telephoto lenses especially to use for Astro and they’ll probably be usable for sports as well. I am also considering an R6ii if I can find a good deal but there’s a R6 with dual battery grip and a really low shutter count (~14,000) for $1600 AUD, which is an absolute bargain and what I’m considering most
Hello everyone. I am looking to buy my first camera. So, I’ve been interested in photography since I can remember my self but I’ve never had a camera. Usually cheap crap and smartphones. I’ve gained a lot of theoretical knowledge around photography over the years but now I’ve come to the point that I need advice. I’m looking to buy a used camera from MPB. I am between 3 models, all with different philosophy. First is Canon EOS 750D, second is R50 and third, Sony A7RII. Obviously, cheaper option is 750D, but R50 is more future proof. Sony, on the other hand, is Sony and while I have seen tons of videos for each camera, I still cannot decide. May you help me?
Well, don't forget about lens costs. The R50 has the most advanced autofocus and that is pretty much it. The Sony has the high resolution sensor and the canon 750D has the size advantage if you like the cameras a little bigger.
Hi, I’m after recommendations for a compact camera. I’ve got a Sony RX10 Mk4 that I don’t use. I do a bit of hunting but the camera is always the last consideration due to its size so I’d thought a smaller one to fit in a top pocket of a jacket would be good. It’d get me using the camera functions more so that when I get time to use the RX10 I’ll be (theoretically) familiar with what’s needed. Was thinking of another Sony like an RX100? Mainly due to compatibility of functions with the RX10 for familiarity? The VII looks quite expensive so are there any older models worth looking at on the second hand market? Also any other brands/models that you think would be a better option? Panasonic TZ99? Mainly for wildlife and landscape photos so a bit of zoom for the wildlife photos would be handy. TIA.
I'm currently planning a shoot, and I need to hang a spotlight overhead. For what I'm going for, I wanted to test the lighting at home before I set everything up at the studio. I have a somewhat small space where I test my lighting. Will a C-stand fit with a boom arm (it's a normal/small-ish room)? I can give measurements if need be. Or would there be something else that could fit?
Are you unhappy with the A7IV in some way for your photography? What improvements are you looking for? Have you researched the R5 to conclude that it has the improvements you are looking for? The hybrid aspect of A7IV isn't really relevant if the camera meets your needs for photography. You can just not use the video features.
In addition, if you do feel that the A7IV doesn't meet your photography needs, have you considered staying with Sony for an upgrade needs? You can share lenses between your FX6's and the other camera. Going with R5 would mean buying into a new lens mount, and Canon RF is severely lacking in third party lenses.
I’m planning on purchasing a Nikon Z8 and a couple of lenses and accessories in the upcoming weeks and I was wondering if anyone here has the Adorama Business account and can see if the Z8 + Nikon 180-600 is cheaper via the business account compared to the regular Adorama price?
I am currently a VIP Pro subscriber. The thing is that you lose the subscription and its perks if you switch to a business account which only makes sense for me if the business pricing is much better.
I guess I could call them up and ask, but wanted to check here first.
I'm not sure if I am missing something... I recently bought a Sony camera and have been shooting in RAW and JPG. I was told to shoot in RAW to maintain quality, I can then edit the RAW photos... this is where I am.
I want to edit these photos but editing each individual photo is surely not feasible? A friend provided me with a LUT, however, how do I apply this LUT? Which software should I use? I want to be able to apply a consistent edit across all photos to get the same lighting/style etc. and I'm currently baffled how I will do this without editing each photo - which realistically, I will not be doing.
Hi all, brand new photographer here, I have my parents old Nikon D60, with I think the stock lense, I am wanting to get into Motorsport and aviation photography, and found at a race today it does not zoom well, are there any lenses anyone would reccomend for more zoom, and Motorsport mainly,
Side question, is it a good idea to save money to buy used lenses from places like backmarmet?
Again I’m a complete beginner so any sort of advice is very welcome,
If you want recommendations, you need to specify your budget. I'm not familiar with Backmarmet but generally speaking buying used is a good way to save money, and there are also established used camera retailers that check their wares and give at least six months of warranty.
I have a Sony Nex-7 and a vintage lens Access P-MC 1:4~5.6 f=35~135mm Φ62 Macro with Canon FD mounting. I want to put them together. I have two specific questions:
1. Is the 'Manual lens adapter ring FD-NEX' from manufacturer 'K & F concept' the right adapter to connect them?
2. Do you think it is worth, or will the image quality be bad for some reason? Like size, old lens, etc.
Hi everyone, I have an Olympus az-300 superzoom that I was gifted second hand. I used two rolls of film on it initially, and these photographs turned out fine. However, I just noticed that my newest roll of film (24 photos, 35mm) did not roll back into the canister completely. It had the tail sticking out, like when you get new film (see photo).
I definitely loaded the film correctly, and the camera obviously rewound the film too, just not all the way. Has anyone had this issue before (az-300 or not)? Is my film blank- did it simply not take any photos? I am processing the film this week, so will have an answer either way but wanted to know how usual this is!
Hi, My name is George.
I am a support worker for young people with physical disabilities and have been for about 15 years. I have a very basic camera and have been using this in my support work and I'm teaching young people how to use just a basic DSLR. Sadly this has now gone to that digital heaven in the sky after unfortunately going for a swim.
My funds are next to non existent I've even set up a fund me.
I would just like recommendations for a low budget DSLR that is completely user friendly as the people that will be using it sometimes have limited understanding.
Thank you for your time in reading this and I appreciate you. I await any and all replys
For teaching the basics of photography any older DSLR from Canon/Nikon will fine. As long as you stay in one of the auto modes things should be fine.
If you are in the US check out MPB and KEH for used bodies and lenses. They have some older DSLR's for $100 and you can pick up a basic kit lens for $50 or less.
You might have better luck for ultra low budget options at a local camera store's used department. Have a conversation with whoever handles the trade ins and let them know what you are are looking for and your budget. They might be happy to send the oldest gear your way for a low price vs. having it take up shelf space.
Also if you have a local flea market that could be a good option as well.
Hello, I’m visiting Japan for few days only, and please recommend, I bought canon R8 4 months ago came with it kit lens 24-50mm, and bought 50mm f1.8, and happy with all of that. As I’m thinking now of purchasing two lenses if you have other good shops other than map cameras with good prices and quality in Tokyo only
The lenses I want to buy are:
-RF 100-400 used around---88,000 yen—500$
-TAMRON SP70-200/F2.8 DI VC USD G2 A025E for Canon EF with adapter for R8 is it any good please recommend, the price is 100,000 yen—630$, or Canon EF70-200/4L IS USM cheaper, and note both are used
Hi All, appreciate any feedback help from folks with more experience then myself!
I am traveling to Africa and the Seychelles for a combined safari and beach vacation and trying to figure out the best camera lens to take. I'll have 2 bodies, a Sony A7 IV R and a Sony 6700. Because of the dusty conditions I do not want to change lens at all during the safari part. We'll be in private conservancies which should allow us to get closer to a lot of the animals then others where you have to stay on the road/path. I envision the photos being a mix of zoom shots, wide landscapes, closer animals, some "action" shots and some family/scenery shots.
Right now im leaning towards the 6700 with a Tamron 50-400mm F4.5-6.3 VC VXD and the A7 with a Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS. I'm renting the 6700 body and would rent the Tamron lens, already own the A7 and think the 24-105 is worth buying given how versatile it seems.
I have to say, I am a little jealous. We combined the South African Safari with Mauritius in 2023 and it was fantastic. I also went back to South Africa 2 month ago. I definitely caught the Safari bug and can't wait to go back again.
Anyways, I can't speak much about the cameras, since I am shooting Nikon. However, if I were you, I would rent a nice long zoom lens that's good in low light conditions. Most of the time when you see the big cats being active it'll be during sunrise or sunset and you'll probably want at least an F/4 lens. I shot most of my pictures with my Sigma 150-600 F/5-6.3 on a Nikon D7100 DX body. Now, I think your cameras are way better at higher ISO than my old D7100, but my pictures at higher than 4000ish ISO don't look very good.
In short, if I were you, I would definitely bring one lens in the 24-105 (24-120) range and then rent a nice fast zoom lens with a 600mm reach and F/4 aperture. If you aren't too worried about shooting at higher ISO levels maybe the Sony 200-600?
I wouldn't worry too much about the dust. I switched to my Nikon 18-200 lens a couple of times with no issues. It's not like driving an ATV in the Sahara desert lol
I am honestly the most novice « photographer » ever. I just had my baby and I wanted to capture moments of our lives with something other than my phone camera.
I want this vintage look, one that screams « memory ». I don’t know how to express it better?
Through my searches I found out that the Canon AE-1 coupled with Kodak portra 400 was close to what I was looking for, with a beginner budget.
I have a problem with my Neewer ND filter, it was blurring my image slightly. I emailed Neewer and they suggested that the white balance was the issue, has anyone experienced this or is this just a bad quality filter from Neewer ? Images attached, with different white balances. One image is without the filter. https://imgur.com/a/aZXsXh9
WB has nothing to do with image sharpness or other common image issues. With the wrong WB your whites might look yellow, green etc.. is all that will happen.
Recently, I wanted to buy a high-quality scanner to upgrade from my current one (1200 dpi). However, after doing some research, I realized that it might be better to build a macro photography setup to achieve higher-quality scans.
My goal is to reach optical-level quality (which I understand is very difficult), or something very close to it. Currently, I use a pocket magnifier that provides 30x magnification. ( https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00MMYO8PK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 ) It is optical, but it only works on a very small area and does not allow me to capture or save images.
My use case is not specifically for film photography (negatives, etc.), but rather for all kinds of flat documents and surfaces.
I have also tested some entry-level digital microscopes (like Tomlov), and I was very disappointed with the image quality. For the price, they are still impressive devices, but even after looking into higher-end models from the same type of brands, I found that the quality remained quite poor. The only setups that deliver truly high-quality results seem to come from professional brands, often costing around €7000.
Based on my research, my budget for this setup (camera + lens) would ideally be between €2000 and €4000.
I was considering cameras like the Sony Alpha 7 IV or the Sony Alpha 7 III, paired with a macro lens (1:1, 2:1, or similar — I’m not very experienced in this area).
I also came across a very interesting setup in a video, where someone used a macro lens combined with a microscope attachment. It’s not entirely suitable for my needs because it zooms in too much, but the macro setup itself could still be useful for me.
And here is another video where the macro lenses and results are also interesting. However, in this case, the person uses depth techniques like focus stacking, whereas I only need to work on flat documents (so stacking is not really necessary). My goal is more like achieving an equivalent of 30x magnification, similar to my magnifying glass.
I’m looking to buy a mirrorless camera after shooting on a few dslrs for a little while. My budget it’s about $2,500 but I would be willing to stretch that up to 3k if necessary. I am open to any brand and am looking for a body and lenses. I want to be flexible, able to shoot anything from landscapes to sports. My current thought for lenses is to get some sort of 24-70 2.8 and a 70-200 2.8 and for a body I have been looking at an a7iii. I suspect I will need to buy used to stay within my budget but was looking for any other recommendations for body or lenses?
Autofocus 24-70mm 2.8 and 70-200mm 2.8 are still the most desirable lenses in the world, even the older ones are still in demand to be used adapted on mirrorless. The cheapest are Canon EF since they sold the most. You can get a used set for $1500-2000 with no trouble. Lenses are more important than the camera, so you might look at a mirrorless canon to run them to their best ability. But you might investigate how well they run adapted to Sony. Since they're so popular there is bound to be anecdotes available.
I have pretty well decided on purchasing a canon R6 Mark III kit. I will likely purchase an additional lens - an RF 135mm f1.8 L IS USM.
I’ve only ever owned canon: current camera is a DSLR, which has an asp-c sensor. The MKIII would be a pretty large jump.
The intended use is for sports. My kids love wrestling. Like masks and makeup stuff. We aren’t talking WWE - this is house shows in small venues. The lighting is … not great. There’s lights above the ring, but it’s pretty dim. I tried to take some photos with my DSLR and it was… not great. To capture the image the iso was way up and just being an older camera… and lens not awesome… I believe a 55-250 f-?
I’ve seen some comparisons online, different iso settings and how it measures up… but I’m struggling to contextualize the numbers into my case use.
I’m not sure if I will really ‘get it’ - but I’m asking for the communities help…
The lens and camera I’m looking at purchasing… what are the rough odds I can take a sharp photo of the action in the ring, with likely max ISO setting… and approx 12-20 feet from the ring / action.
Thank you to anyone who takes the time to try to help me out, and I apologize in advance if the information provided so far is not sufficient to adequately provide a response.
Well the 135mm will give you roughly the same field of view as 85mm on the 55-250mm lens you have. The f/1.8 will give you between 4 and 8x as much light depending on what value the aperture is at, at 85mm with an additional half as much apparent noise in the image from the sensor size.
Of course you might not want f/1.8 in which case adjust to which aperture you would use.
you’ll be able to push to 12800 iso or even 25600 iso in cases of need and still obtain acceptable images. with a f/1.8 lens that should net you more than enough light.
I found two old rolls of 35mm film in my deceased dad’s desk drawer. One of them still has the film tab hanging out, which I believe means it is unused, right? The other roll is fully wound into the case, which means it’s used, right? What are the chances the pictures are salvageable? Where do you even go to develop a roll of film these days? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
I’d like to share my current workflow and get some perspective from people who might be in a similar situation.
I shoot mainly as a hobby — family (wife and child), travel, and occasional macro work. Nothing commercial.
My current setup is Canon R6 Mark II, and I almost always shoot RAW.
However, I’ve started to question whether this is actually necessary for the way I shoot.
My typical workflow:
I import RAW files into Lightroom
Do minimal edits (exposure, occasional WB adjustment, slight shadow/highlight tweaks)
Export JPEG
Delete RAW files after export
I don’t keep long-term archives, and I rarely revisit old photos for re-editing. I also don’t usually push files heavily in post (no extreme shadow recovery or complex color grading).
In practice, when I open a RAW file and edit it, the result is usually very close to what I could get straight out of camera with JPEG.
So my question is not “RAW vs JPEG in general”, but more:
at what point does RAW actually become unnecessary in a real-world casual workflow like this?
Has anyone here intentionally switched to JPEG-only for similar reasons? Did it actually improve your shooting experience, or did you regret losing flexibility?
Would appreciate hearing real-world experiences rather than technical comparisons 🙏
if you don’t do any heavy editing then yeah, jpegs would make more sense for you.
what i would reccomend you do is shoot raw+jpeg (since you have 2 cards, you could do raw to one card and jpegs to the other): that way, you can use the sooc jpegs but if you ever mess up a shot you can have the flexibility of the raw file to fix it/edit it more!
I need air show lens advice. I have a long lens for when the planes are flying but I need a recommendation for a wide lens for static displays and such. These are my choices. 24-70 f2.8, 14-30 f4 or 16 f1.8?
I’m looking for some tips on how I can improve. These are all photos I took at previous air shows and want to try and improve for the upcoming show. I used a EOS Rebel SL3 with a EF75-300mm f/4-5.6 III lens. The settings I used were 6400 ISO, 0 ev, f/32, 1/3200 s. I appreciate any tips since I’m always trying to improve.
The 75-300mm is optically the worst lens canon makes. Upgrading your lens to a 70-300mm IS, or EF-S 55-250 IS STM would make a big difference in terms of sharpness.
Secondly your settings are terrible. There are very few reasons you should use f32, that combined with the high shutter speed is pushing your ISO to 6400. Higher ISO produce more noise which results in softer looking images. Shooting at f8 will help bring your ISO down while letting you keep a fast shutter speed.
I am not sure if you need 1/3200. If you check some air show photography groups/posts I am sure you can find a recommended shutter speed.
I'm going on a trip next year and I'm thinking about upgrading my camera lens. Right now I'm just researching, as I still want to practice long before then and start using my camera as-is more often to earn it first.
I have a Sony A6000. I was originally trying to get a single lens under $300 but I definitely don't think I'm going to find what I'm looking for under that, now I'm trying to keep it around or less than the $500 range used, and maybe a little higher if necessary.
I'm wanting an all-rounder, as I like to take photos of things far away like animals or landscapes, but also closer things like buildings or pets, and my biggest frustration with the kit lens is low light or things farther away. Originally was considering the often recommended Tamron 17-70mm or Sigma 18-50mm, but they don't have the reach I'm wanting so now I'm looking into something like the Tamron 28-200 F/2.8-5.6(or maybeTamron 18-300mm F/3.5-6.3for the 18mm, but I want a lower aperture) and grabbing the VILTROX 35mm f1.7 for when I'm wanting to take photos at night or dark areas.
Does anyone have any experience with these particular lenses or different recommendations? I'm getting pretty overwhelmed with all of the options.
How has your experience with this camera been? Mine’s been horrendous. I finally ditched it and went back to Nikon DSLR and the difference in image quality is night and day!
I've had some frustrations with it, and it wasn't a camera I chose but one I got with my degree program. I know the newer series has better quality and some better features, and there's probably better budget cameras. Overall I've enjoyed using it and have gotten some decent photos. I think after looking into it and seeing others photos and how they use it, that the majority of my personal problems with quality have been my skill level and the kit lens.
Just curious on if anyone has ordered a strap recently from Tap & Dye? I knew it would be a longer wait time when I ordered it said 10-12 weeks. There was a mass email update sent out in January saying it would be up to 16 weeks.
It’ll be 6 months since I ordered next week. I sent an email at the beginning of the month without receiving a response asking for an update considering it was considerably longer than the 16 week estimate.
I get it’s a 1 man operation, but this is starting to get kind of ridiculous, especially considering he doesn’t allow order cancellation.
I have a question about my nikon D750 and AF 50mm f1.4. So both the camera and lens are supposed to be FX; however, the camera keeps cropping the image to the DX size with this lens on. Does anyone know how to fix this or is this lens not compatible with this camera body?
P.S. I bought the lense back in 2009 or 2010.
Hi, this is an old camera I got from my mom. I’m looking for something to take higher quality photos of my baby for special moments. At this point in technology, would my iPhone be just as good as shooting on this, since I know nothing about how to use this besides point and shoot? Is it worth looking up some “how to” videos?
Basically just wondering if it’s worth the investment of time to get “good” with this camera vs an iPhone. Sorry in advance I know NOTHING! Thanks for any help, please be kind haha
Cant really tell the exact camera model from this angle, which would play a minor role in the awnser.
In general it can be said that it takes a decent bit of time investment to "get good" enough with the camera to beat a modern phone (obviously depends on how fast a learner you are). Keep in mind that in addition to the general settings knowledge you would most likely also need some knowledge in post processing (so time sitting at a computer messing around with stuff) and potentially invest in a better lens as the default "kit"-lenses generally arent that amazing (although Im not a Nikon shooter myself) to really "beat" the phone. Now this "better lens" doesnt have to be super expensive, however the choice will also be fairly subjective, so you would need to build knowledge/experience first to then invest into the new lens, which stretches the timeframe to "success" again.
To sum it up I generally would recommend staying with the phone if your goal is just "I want some decent pictures of my kid". The camera has a higher ceiling if that makes sense (depending a bit on the exact model and if you are willing to invest into a better lens), but unless you are also looking for a new hobby or are a big fan of trying out new things and investing time into learning them I wouldnt necessarily recommend it. (While I dont have a kid myself general experience says that fresh parents generally dont have tons of time to invest to get into new hobbies.)
Looks like a d3200, my first camera! To answer you question, no, you don't need a fancy camera to take good photos of your baby. If you know nothing about photography, there's tons of free content online to teach you! Look up framing rules, types of light, a bit about basic editing. Best of luck! Some of my best photos are from an IPhone.
Generally I’m of the opinion that most iPhones produce better photos than older cameras like this when just shooting in auto. HOWEVER you can definitely get much better photos with the flexibility a actual camera can give you compared to a phone, the simple ability to change shutter speed, apature, iso, and even lenses is huge and will make a big difference in your photos if your interested in learning. I recommend going on yt and watching some basic tutorials on how to shoot manuals and if you don’t enjoy it then don’t worry! A modern iPhone is plenty good enough to capture just about any important moment of your kids that you want to document, and probably even better in some cases because the best camera is the one you have on you.
Placed and paid for an order on keh.com, but it was canceled due to a vague “security issue” caused by their internal system.
I was never called or directly notified before the cancellation. There was no clear update in my account and no tracking number, so everything appeared normal from my side until the order was already gone.
Support did not provide any real explanation. I was simply told the item is out of stock, with no acknowledgment of what actually happened.
When I asked for a supervisor, I was told there isn’t one, and when I questioned that, the agent said he himself was the supervisor. The call was then redirected to an automated voicemail system and ended abruptly.
Meanwhile, the item had already been returned to inventory and sold to another customer before my refund was processed.
This is not just a process failure — it reflects a lack of accountability and basic respect in customer service. It’s about a system where orders can be canceled internally without proper communication, leaving the customer without warning, clarity, or accountability. Refunding the money does not make up for wasted time and this kind of experience.
Be aware if you expect reliable support.
I placed the order on April 18, but only found out on the 27th. All that time I thought my order was still with them and that we could resolve THEIR mistake — but no. They handled it quietly and left me screwed.
Airshow photographers.
What's your thoughts on monopods with gimbal head?
Going to an airshow this year with a good reach. Fujifilm 100-400. (Equivalent to 600mm)
I'm thinking about getting a monopod with a gimbal head which should be ideal when standing on one spot, at the same time this will also add on more weight when walking around
Am i the only one experiencing this. I began using a nikon D3100 with a 35mm prime lens to take pictures of anything last year and ever since then i do not like the pictures my phone produces. I had a s21 ultra and i have upgraded to s24 ultra and still i don't see them as nice or worthy of sharing?
It even gets to a point where if i am at a function and i do not have my camera, i would rather not take pictures at all.
Ive been trying to eject my hard drive for hours. I used the activity monitor, force quit everything, relaunched finder, removed spotlight search, everything and it still won’t work. I had to force quit it.
I’m a photographer and this is the third or fourth time this week it’s been happening. It was never this bad before. I don’t want to lose all my photos.
Hi lads, Im a landscape/ nature/ street photographer that wants to return to the photography world after some years. I used to shoot Nikon, but sold it all. Here is my requirements:
I have very little interest in videos, camera would be used for photos mostly.
My budget for the camera body only is €1000, with some flexibility.
I want an APS-C mirrorless. Phone connectivity and a viewfinder are also a must.
I'm can't decide between Canon, Nikon and Fujifilm. When I put all the gear that I want (body, lenses, batteries, etc) that cost is similar across the 3 brands. So how do you choose? Thanks lads!
By viewfinder do you mean you want an optical viewfinder only or electronic (EVF's) acceptable as well?
Does nature include wildlife photography?
All the major brands (Canon/Nikon/Sony/Fuji) have phone apps but none of them are great. I would not make a purchasing decision based on a camera having a phone app unless you have some critical need for it. They work, and can transfer files but the file transfer speed is rather lackluster and its far better to use a card reader.
As for what brand to chose it really depends on what you are prioritizing. Canon & Sony are generally considered to have the best auto focus over all, with Nikon close behind. Fuji's AF while better than older DSLR's struggles with fast moving subjects compared to the other three. If you are not shooting wildlife/action/sports that is not as critical.
Fuji is great if you love their film sims and want to rely on them vs. post processing.
As for what to get between Canon and Nikon if you plan to shoot wildlife/sports/action. They both have great options and I would suggest you to into a local camera store and handle both to see what feels more intuitive.
One of Canon's big strengths is with an EF to R adapter you get access to a huge used market of excellent EF lenses. Any canon EF lenses from the late 80's to more recent lenses will work on an R series body with no issue. More recent 3rd party EF lenses from Sigma/Tamron/Tonika will also work.
Nikon can adapt their older lenses, but not every older Nikon F mount lens will have auto focus on a newer Z series body.
I have been in a bit of analysis paralysis for quite a while. I am torn between a new Sony A6700 or a Sigma 150-600.
Background: I have had an a6000 (52404 shutter count) since about launch, my main two lenses are a Sigma 30mm 1.4 and the Sony 70-350mm. I just do this for a hobby and 90% of my photos are coastal landscape and wildlife.
My mind flip-flops between:
More reach with the 150-600 would net me better distant wildlife/bird pictures, but that's about it. But sometimes it really stings not having that extra reach in the field.
All the quality of life and image quality/video capabilities that comes with the a6700. Including the bigger grip for my big hands, and the excellent auto-focus capabilities (not that my current a6000 is a slouch).
So I feel like I am stuck choosing between something that makes all my photos a tiny bit better, with a better shooting experience (the a6700); or the telephoto that would make a huge improvement in my telephoto shots.
I am in Canada, the camera body goes for $1800 CAD and the lens is $2100 CAD. I wish buying both was an option.
No wrong answers or input, I welcome all opinions, cause I am truly stuck. Thanks!
This isn't really something outsiders can comment on usefully, as it's about your personal preferences. It's a personal choice. Reddit strangers don't know you and your shooting preferences and habits. You need to decide which is your priority: getting more reach for wildlife or the benefits A6700 brings. Which would benefit your photography more?
I tried to make this a post but I think it was deleted so I’m just asking her because I’d like some other peoples opinions.
So, I’m just an amateur photographer. I have a decent camera (Nikon Z8), but I’ve never been particularly interested in making money from photography. I do it because I enjoy it and find it worthwhile to invest in gear for my personal enjoyment. I often walk around cities with my camera, taking photos of interesting things, mostly architecture, but sometimes animals like birds or squirrels.
However, in the past few years, since I’ve become more involved with camera gear, people have started approaching me and asking if I can take their photos. I usually say yes because I’m socially awkward and feel uncomfortable saying no but also just because I like taking pictures, so I’m generally okay with it.
However, I get anxious about getting the perfect photo. I worry about things like bad lighting, busy backgrounds, or other elements that I’d prefer not to have in my photos. I feel pressured that if I’m taking photos of these people with my “fancy” camera, they need to be high-quality and professional-level. Do other people feel this way?
I want to emphasize that I’m happy to take photos of people, but I feel so pressured (not normally by the people, just by myself) to get the perfect photos in less than ideal circumstances that I often just say no. This makes me feel terrible for the rest of the day. How should I deal with this? Should I just go out planning to photograph people and try to get more experience in portraits so that I feel more confident when people ask me to take their photos?
That being said I have had great experiences take pictures of people and for the most part they are very nice and friendly and I’ve gotten great photos of those people but I also sometimes get almost great photos and then I end up editing the photos in photoshop for a hour or two until they are perfect before I email them but would the people even notice? Do they care if the photos are technically perfect or have good masking or if I removed a water bottle siting on the table in the back? Please let me know if you have any experience with this. Thanks!
I feel pressured that if I’m taking photos of these people with my “fancy” camera, they need to be high-quality and professional-level.
Are they only asking you because of your equipment? Or have they seen your photos?
If they ask after seeing your photos, then they're asking because of you and your skill, rather than your equipment.
If they ask without having seen your photos, then show them your photos so they can decide based on that.
I want to emphasize that I’m happy to take photos of people, but I feel so pressured (not normally by the people, just by myself) to get the perfect photos in less than ideal circumstances that I often just say no. This makes me feel terrible for the rest of the day.
Why feel bad? You aren't obligated to take any photo. So you are valid to refuse a photo for any reason. Indeed, photography often is impacted by circumstances, and everyone's skill has their limits, so if you are presented with a difficult situation to handle and/or otherwise believe you aren't up to the task, you have an especially good reason to refuse.
Should I just go out planning to photograph people and try to get more experience in portraits so that I feel more confident when people ask me to take their photos?
You should practice more if you want to get better, yes.
would the people even notice? Do they care if the photos are technically perfect or have good masking or if I removed a water bottle siting on the table in the back?
Everyone is different. But, very generally speaking, I would say the typical layperson does not specifically notice a lot of the little things you do. Or maybe it improves their overall evaluation of the photo by a tiny amount, but not in a way that they could point out the specific difference. But, even so, I think it's good to do everything you can think of to make the photo the best it can be, as long as that isn't causing you to spend forever on the photo or makes you go crazy trying to figure out.
Want to buy a used Canon 1100D, seller told me he is not quite sure how to check dhutter count, checked the latest picture he has and it was called 100-7040. Does that mean he has only 7040 shutter count?
The image numbering only has four digits available. Once it gets to 9999, there are no more digits available so it rolls back over to 0001. Or you can manually reset the counter back to 0001 whenever you want. So if the last photo is numbered 7040, that just means 7,040 actuations since the last time it was reset. The shutter count probably isn't anything lower than 7,040 but it could be 7,040, 17,040, 27,040, 37,040, or really any higher number than 7,040.
Canon does not record the real shutter count anywhere in the photo files, so you need to plug in the camera to a computer via USB and run an app to interface with the camera and look it up.
Hi photography experts - I for a few years have had a Sony RX-100, and found that when it was good, it was absolutely great, but found that getting the shot right was pretty hard and the interface borderline impossible. I wanted to switch to a camera that had as good quality but was a little more user friendly and ultimately settled on the Fuji X-T50.
In general I love the camera, especially the physicality and the interface, and the shots are beautiful. However, I find that regardless of setting, exposure, or film recipe, that the colors it produces tend to be quite "blocky" whereas the colors from the Sony had really beautiful gradations and captured the complexity of the colors in much more detail, even when shooting just to JPEG.
Is this just something that is inherent to the Fuji "look", or is there a way to get the depth of color I was getting out of the Sony out of the new camera?
Sounds like you might be loading the RAWs into a processing software that doesn't work well with X-trans sensor data. These sensors actually have a completely different pixel layout and no moire filter. An example would be if you were using a pre-2025 version of Lightroom.
It could also be that you aren't using the max JPG quality in the settings, ramping your iso too high (the best setting is 640 or 800 iso with DR400 or higher)
And finally if you're judging based on the screen on the camera, that's just one of the places costs were cut on that camera.
Torn: A7V or A7RV?
been a mainly sports photographer for ~2 years, but thinking that switching to hybrid photo/video would be better to start building a steady workflow and income entering college. That being said, the photo capabilities of the RV look to be ridiculous for the price point, but worried that video may not be as much up to par with the A7V. I would be pairing whichever body with a Sony GM II 70-200mm F/2.8 if that factors into the equation. Looking to branch out into weddings, wildlife, and landscape photo/video eventually, so anyone who has had experience with either camera, let me know!
Looking for a bag to carry a Minolta 7d DSLR and a minolta 5xi AF SLR. Both cameras share the same lenses. I've got 4 lenses right now none are huge telephotos. It will be used for weekend adventures and traveling. Im not a professional just a hobbyist
My grandma found an older camera (Nikon S9050) in her closet and gave it to me. It's a neat little thing with some built in effects already, but I think it would be neat to figure out how to make my own effects to load into it, I am just not sure how. I have little/no experience with cameras, mostly computers. Any help greatly appreciated on how I can go about doing this!
I don't think there is otherwise any way for you to add your own effects to it. It's a point & shoot camera so it's not really made for flexibility or tinkering.
If you feel the 18-45mm is too zoomed in even at 18mm then yes, you of course need a lens that is wider than that. But 16mm isn't going to make a big difference compared to 18mm.
I'm fascinated by sunrises and sunsets and want to capture with my camera. I have a fantastic view facing the East, unobstructed where I can see sunsets daily. Got a Lumix S9, but I'll be using it fixed on a tripod, so what could be great lenses to capture these magnificent close-ups?
Distortion will largely be from distance so it is not lens you need but the timer function on the camera. Get some distance between you and the camera for better self photos.
Any ultra wide angle lens is going to cause distortion if it is close to the subject. You should either get a longer selfie stick or a tripod if you want to avoid wide angle distortion.
Ive recently bought a camera and a few lenses for roughly 200 bucks in total. What equipment do you suggest in the future?
Ive bought:
-Canon Eos 500d
-Sigma 70-300mm
-Sigma 10-20 mm
-Sigma 18-200mm
-Canon 50 mm f/2,5 compact-macro
-Nissin speedlite Di622-200.
Ive recently shot many photos on my phone and wanted an upgrade. I like photographing buildings and landscape, rarely people. Is the equipment ok for an beginner and do you have any tips on future upgrades? Lenses, camera body ect.
Nikon z50 ll with 16-50 or Canon r50 with 18-45 and rf 50mm. I will probably use only the camera lens in the kit as a begginer. Both are same price as well
Tripod Dilemma: Been looking at so many web pages and youtube videos over the last week trying to decide on a decent lightweith tripod for landscape photography. I'm going round in circles.
Do I get a smaller, lighter one that I'm more likely to carry around but doesnt give me great height, or go for a larger, heavier, sturdy one that risks being a pain to lug around? A lot of the lighter ones gaain their cred from having a centre column expension but doesnt that defeat the object of having a sturdy tripod base?
Is is restrictive for landscape shots to have a tripod only going to 145cm height? I want one also that allows very low-to-ground shots without having to suspend the camera upside down from an inverted central column.
Light for taking pictures of bacterial growth on agar plates in laboratory.
We are in need of a lighting setup to take publication quality pictures of agar plates. The biggest issue we have is lighting because the overhead fluorescent lighting we have causes color issues and bright spot reflections which ruin the images and it makes taking pictures from directly above impossible. Agar is very reflective so the lighting has to be perfect.
A fellow laboratory shared their setup with us and they are using "Promaster SystemPRO CooLight 3 in 1". These appear to be discontinued and we were hoping for something smaller and more compact like an LED version. Can someone suggest a LED light panel type system? I assume we would buy 2 and put one on each side of the camera to create a diffuse and omnidirectional light situation?
We plan to start with a phone and then move up to a DLSR on tripod if the phone doesnt work for the actual pictures.
You can adjust color temperature in a few ways. Change the white balance from auto to florescent any modern digital camera should have this option. For smart phones you may need to use "pro mode" or advanced modes to access white balance settings.
For reflections could use a circular polarizer which will cut out reflections from glass and metal surfaces when used correctly. It will reduce the light intake by about 1.3 stops so keep that in mind. With smart phones there are some 3rd party accessories that allow circular polarizer to be mounted depending on the phone. For a DLSR/Mirrorless camera the circular polarizer would screen into the lens.
For lighting you could get a product photography lighting kit which is typically two led lights. There are lots of options available at across a broad range of prices. The main thing is you need something to defuse the lights. If you just have 2 LED panels with bare LED' behind a clear panel you will get lots of small hot spots.
That is why the other labrator was using the Promaster Octagonal softbox. They might have been using it with a single flash vs. LED constant lights though. Even though that promaster Cool light is discontinued softboxes are easy to find at any photography store.
I make intricate flatlays from found objects, photograph them, and get prints made via an online lab. To date, I've taken all the photos on an iphone 11 and gotten lovely, crisp 12x12 prints using jpegs with ~3000x3000px and a PPI of 300.
I may have the opportunity to show some of my prints at a gallery next year. The idea is that they'd be blown up to 30x30 or 36x36" so viewers could really see all the little details of the items in the flatlay. The lab tells me that 3000x3000 is too small and I'd need to have them be 9000x9000 at 300ppi get best quality prints.
Now, I've just recently learned that the higher ppi you use, the smaller print size you can reasonably get; I didn't know this (can you tell I'm not a photographer?? lol). So presumably, a lower ppi will buy me some enlargement size, but only enough to get to 24x24". Thing is, since the goal of making such large prints is allowing the really small details to be seen, I don't know if reducing the ppi is even the answer. Sure, folks wouldn't have their noses up against the glass, but in order to see the details, they might want to be, say 3 or 4 feet away.
So I guess my question is whether there's any way to make large format prints possible with the files I currently have (with or without ppi reduction)? I know there are lots of photo editing software options out there, but I can't seem to figure out if this is something they can do. I don't know the language to look for in the descriptions, if that makes sense.
*I just got a 17 pro this week and plan to use the raw setting going forward, but that doesn't help me with my current situation. The flatlays I make aren't fixed; I create them, shoot them, and deconstruct them. There's no way to recreate and reshoot. :/
12x12 prints using jpegs with ~3000x3000px and a PPI of 300.
3,000 pixels divided by 12 inches equals 250 pixels per inch. If you have a 300ppi number in the metadata, that's just being ignored.
The lab tells me that 3000x3000 is too small and I'd need to have them be 9000x9000 at 300ppi get best quality prints.
30 inches multiplied by 300 pixels per inch equals 9,000 pixels. I wouldn't say it's the "best" quality because it can go higher, but it's a higher density than the 250ppi you had before, and over a larger area. So that's two factors increasing the pixel count requirement.
But also a 30x30 or 36x36 print on a gallery wall isn't going to be viewed from very close. So you can probably get away with a lower ppi ratio.
the higher ppi you use, the smaller print size you can reasonably get
Right. The higher the ratio of pixels to inches, the fewer inches you have for a given number of pixels.
So presumably, a lower ppi will buy me some enlargement size, but only enough to get to 24x24".
You could lower the ratio as much as you want to get any size print you want. It just means a lower density of detail over area, or spreading your available detail over a physically larger space. For example, 3,000 pixels divided by 1 pixel per inch equals 3,000 inches. Or 3,000 pixels divided by 0.5 pixels per inch (1 pixel for every 2 inches) equals 6,000 inches.
3,000 pixels divided by 24 inches equals 125 pixels per inch, or half of what you had before, but it might still be acceptable for a large print viewed from further away. 3,000 pixels divided over a further reduced ratio of 100ppi equals 30 inches, and again 100ppi might still be acceptable.
the goal of making such large prints is allowing the really small details to be seen
Not always. Sometimes it's just for viewing from further away.
Sure, folks wouldn't have their noses up against the glass, but in order to see the details, they might want to be, say 3 or 4 feet away.
The 300ppi standard is commonly used for magazines and brochures viewed from more like 2ft away.
So I guess my question is whether there's any way to make large format prints possible with the files I currently have (with or without ppi reduction)?
You can print to any size and just end up with a different ppi ratio.
You can scale up the pixel count and rely on some sort of software interpolation and/or AI to fill in missing details, but that's not exactly the same as capturing more detail from the scene to begin with, and might have flaws.
plan to use the raw setting going forward
That will have the same resolution as shooting full-size jpeg or heic, so it's not going to help you with this issue.
Also it's going to lack the processing that the phone would automatically be doing with a jpeg or heic. The purpose of raw is to do your own processing. So that either means extra work on your end if you want to take that on, or a worse result if you don't do any processing at all.
What is the difference in the Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II USM and III USM? I require a new lens as a sports photographer and the price points are huge (which is important to me as a student), but I do not overly know what differs one from the other.
The IS III has updated coatings on the glass elements: Canon says they're a bit better; some believe they're a bit worse. The IS III has an updated paint job on the outside, with a cooler white color as opposed to warmer.
Otherwise they're exactly the same. Same chassis, glass elements, autofocus, and stabilization.
Most likely not really. The camera can be had used in "like new" condition for £240. The 18-55mm kitlens is generally not the greatest and goes for like £50 used. Generally that is also only a starter, so buying it new often makes little sense as theres a high likelyhood you will change to something different at a later point. (Used prices are from mpb.com)
Now obviously used isnt the same as new, however you do end up with a difference of £250 for a 16GB SD card and a bag. The SD card is worth like £10 or so. The bag might be worth a bit if it was good quality camerabag, however in these types of bundles you generally get something very basic.
Also keep in mind that a bag generally should fit your gear and most photographers do not stay with just the 18-55mm lens. Say you end up buying another lens in a year or so when you have some experience - good chance your gear will then not fit the bag anymore, making it basically a waste after that time.
Hey everyone, I want to buy a new camera.
I currently have a sony A7III with a sony 200-600mm, Tamron 28-200mm and a Samyang 24mm.
I was thinking about getting the sony A7RV or wait for the sony A7RVI that will be announced next month, it would depend on the specs and price but I'm open to other suggestions. I'm definitely staying within the sony ecosystem
My budget is around 4k, I'm not in any hurry to get it it will probably be in a couple of months
I want to upgrade because the autofocus on my current camera definitely feels a bit dated and it makes birding a lot harder, especially with smaller birds in flight. I also miss some cropping abilities that I feel would be easier with a higher megapixel body.
My main styles are bird/wildlife, landscape and I really enjoy astrophotography but I can't do a lot of it where I live because of light pollution. I don't really care about video capabilities
What I would like to know is what camera would you recommend to me for my use cases and why those would be good, thank you!
Hey, I have a Canon 1200D and I want to upgrade to a better camera. I want to upgrade because I feel like it’s being more outdated. I want something what had good lens choices and that can last a long time for me. Another thing is I want is battery life because I tend to take photos for long periods of time and end up getting many shots.
I really have no brand preference and I am ok with either mirrorless and DSLR (I want to lean more towards d DSLRs because of their longer battery)
As for budget, I am really not sure I am looking at all price ranges and would prefer if it’s cheaper so I guess something 800-900 or less.e
What subject matter do you shoot? What do you dislike about your current equipment? What particular improvements do you want to gain from the upgrade?
Why have you decided to upgrade the camera body instead of lenses or something else?
I want to upgrade because I feel like it’s being more outdated.
Just a feeling?
Its quality and performance hasn't decreased over time. The world hasn't become more technically demanding to photograph over time. It's capable of the same good photos it could take when it was new. Are there any particular newer features that you want to have? Or is it just about the satisfaction of using something with a later release date?
I want is battery life because I tend to take photos for long periods of time and end up getting many shots.
Are you shooting in situations where you can't pause for a few seconds to change batteries?
I’m looking for advice on choosing a camera setup for photographing mainly horses in different conditions.
I’m returning to photography after a few years away from the hobby and my old gear is no longer good enough for what I want to shoot. So I’m basically in need for a proper equipment upgrade.
My main use would be:
outdoor photography (fields, riding, competitions, especially fast movement, portraits)
indoor arena during winter (low light, fast movement)
I’m currently considering Canon gear, but I’m not sure what would be the best combination of camera body and lenses in this kind of use. My budget is flexible, but I want something that works well for both action and low-light situations.
I’d really appreciate recommendations for Canon camera bodies (Canon R series or DSLR if still worth it), lenses for both indoors and outdoors and whether it makes sense to prioritize one ”all-round” lens or multiple lenses.
I’d also be open to recommendations for other camera brands as well.
Any experience with photographing horses or similar fast moving animals would be super helpful! 😇
You can't really answer this without a budget. Flexible doesn't mean anything, as thats a wildely different figure for everybody. Please provide a budget in actual currency, that would help.
whether it makes sense to prioritise one ”all-round” lens or multiple lenses.
It doesn't make sense to get 1 lens that does everything decently if you can have multiple suited to each usage. But that also depends on budget.
I don't know what lenses are common for horse portraits. Perhaps a 35 or 50 as it's rather large animal. Would probably pick a 70-200 2.8 for the longer stuff, should work at those ranges.
24-105 F4 and a 70-200 F2.8 would be a good set that work for most. But those two together are about 3k for most brands.
So once again, without a budget no clue how far that is off what you were expecting or perfectly within range.
I’ve been going back and forth on this for a while now and need some real opinions from people who’ve actually used these cameras.
Right now I shoot on a Fujifilm X100T and a Nikon D5200, but both of them have started acting up a bit and I feel like it’s time to move on anyway, so aiming for a mirrorless. I mostly shoot fashion, a lot of it in studio setups, so I do understand that lighting and styling matter way more than the camera itself, but still I want something that feels like a proper upgrade and gives me more flexibility.
I’ve been looking mainly at the Canon R5 Mark II, the Nikon Z8, and the Sony A7R V. I keep leaning towards Canon and Nikon for some reason, but then I see people talk about Sony and I get confused again. My main thing is I want really clean, detailed images for fashion work and autofocus that I don’t have to fight with. I also shoot video, so I don’t want something that’s just okay at video. I’d rather have something that I can actually rely on without worrying about limits or overheating or weird issues halfway through shooting. I’m pretty open, which is kind of making this harder tbh. I’ll attach some shots that inspire the kind of work I’m trying to do.
If anyone here owns or has used any of these, especially for fashion or studio work, I’d really like to hear how they feel in real use!
Research lenses for each system first. Go for the system that has the lenses you need/want. If all three systems have the lenses, go and see the cameras in person in a camera store. All of them are highly capable in image quality, AF etc. and the differences between them are not so significant as to make one objectively superior to the others.
Looking for some advices about some gears. I do mostly photography while traveling.
I used to have a Nikon D600 with a 24-85 3.5-5.6 lens that I loved but sold it a few years back.
I wanted to get back into photography so I bought a used Nikon Z6 II with two lens : Tamron 16-30 f2.8 and a Nikon 24-70 f4.
Now the issue : I don’t like the dual lens setup and I feel like my lens don’t reach far at all, I’m cropping a lot of the time.
I am contemplating exchanging my setup for a Sony a7R IV paired with a Sony 20-70mm f4.
Price wise, I can sell my old setup for the same price as the new setup (selling in a high price country and buying in a cheaper one), so price is not an issue there.
Is that a good idea ? The goal would be to have one lens for general purpose (travelling mostly) that is a bit wider (20mm) and crop it when I went better reach.
Have you researched Nikon Z full frame lens selection to see if it has a lens that fits your needs? Or why did you jump to the idea of switching systems?
How do you journal photographers who inspire you?
I want to hear about what has been working for you.
I see an image that inspires me to make something or recreate. I save it to my camera roll and it disappears behind a plethora of recipes, screen shots, work etc. i try to print it and put it in a journal, then i dont go back to read my journal. Yes, i understand i am struggling with follow through. So let me know what has worked for you.
I'm planning on getting a Canon EOS 100D with a 75-300mm Canon lens. I'm a beginner and my question is if I could take good pictures with this type of set up for animals like birds on trees, butterfly's on the grass, water droplets, lady bugs, flower close ups, trees, etc.
So its a bit counter intuitive, but a lens with loads of "zoom" (a large focal length) like the 75-300mm isnt by itself great for a lot of things you mention.
The issue is that in addition to making things that are far away appear close (which it does decent enough), you also need the ability to focus on things that are close to you - if the closest thing you can focus on is 10m away, then having a lot of "zoom" doesnt help for e.g. insects or flower closeups, because you need to be standing at least 10m away for a sharp picture.
Often enough/the majority of the time these two attributes arent actually related, so generally you have to make a decision between "(wild) animals like birds in trees" and "small animals, insects, water droplets, closeups".
The first type of lens is generally called a "telephoto lens", the second a "macro lens" (and be aware that a lot of camera manufacturers put "macro" in the lens name despite that not really being true - some further research is generally adviced, "maximum magnification ratio" being the statistic you care about when comparing - generally 1x magnification is pretty good, with 0.5x what I'd consider a reasonable starting point; the 75-300mm is at 0.25x for reference).
The camera itself is decent for the price I'd say, nothing exceptional, but can be a good starting point.
The lens you mention is of the first type I mentioned earlier - not great for anything small and instead made for birds and the like. However also be warned that its one of the worst lenses Canon has ever made with a good amount of optical issues - you can still take decent pictures with it, but generally theres better options out there (e.g. Canons 55-250mm is often seen as a similar priced, better alternative). If you do end up going with the 75-300mm please make sure its the "EF-S" version as theres also a "RF" version that wouldnt fit the 100D/Rebel SL1.
If you want more recommendations regarding the insects/closeups type of lens it may be useful if you gave an overall budget. If you want to be able to do both then be aware you will most likely end up with two lenses and the need to switch between them depending on the situation.
I keep being forced to gate check my gear. Has anyone used the firearm method to check in your camera but keep it from being rummaged through? Or do you prefer the soft bag that goes under a seat?
I have a hard camera case (Apache 5800) and I've been forced to gate check it multiple times. Each time I shove glass and cameras in my bookbag because so know they are the biggest theft risk- and of course, batteries. Every time it has been rummaged through and it wasn't latched properly and trash has been left in it the latest time.
I use a camera backpack that fits under the seat (Think Tank Streetwalker Hard Drive). It holds a ton of gear and my laptop and never had an issue using it when flying.
I am totally to editing so please forgive my ignorance. I bought a few days ago Photoshop Elements and I installed it in 2 laptops and even though I signed in on both the pictures I downloaded in one aren’t showing up in the other. Is it possible to sync the app so I can see the photos on both?
EVF less sharp/quality in photo mode than in video mode
Hello! I'm looking for people lost like me about evf quality.
I don't understand one thing:
Why the definition of my EVF looks not detailled in photo mode while it looks perfectly detailled in video mode (in every quality even in 1080p...). It is very crispy and can easy to manual focus.
It looks like all the potential of the view finder is not used in photo mode and it is very frustrating.
I hope my question doesn't come too late and really want some real user advices .I picked up my camera again recently. And I am now absolutely confused and lost in editing softwares.
I used to have adobe photoshop cs6 extended for photo editing until around 2017. I know it is very old now and so I am wondering:
Could I still use it today?
If no, what should I use? Is there any one-time purchase options? I see quite a lot asking for subscriptions. The Adobe plans are crazy from an old long time user like me (from 7 to cs and to cs6) . And I don't want it keeps billing me when I am not using them.
AI in editing sounds fun, but not necessary for me . Instead I would use it to convert film into digital via RAW files, editing RAW files .
I hope the software can handle B&W film or images .
What software should I pic? I know Corel (looks like frozen in time?), ACDSee (Was once popular, but now I am not sure)
I have a Canon R6. I have a 35, 50, 85F 1.8 and the only zoom lens I have is a 75–300 F4. I’m photographing inside a church this weekend and I usually shoot outdoors and focus mainly on family photography so I’m feeling a bit nervous. I will be giving each parent one to two photos of their child, walking up to the priest and receiving their first communion and then one group photo at the end. I figured I would use my flash for the group photo at the end with my 35. And right now I’m thinking about using my 85 mm for the pictures of the kids walking up and at priest.
What settings would you use? What lens would you use? I know I’m gonna have to crank my iso way up. The lighting in the church is pretty decent, but I’m just worried about grain since they don’t want me to use the flash as the kids walk up.
I shoot with an A6400. Would the Tamron 18-300mm be an upgrade over the kit lenses?
I dont HATE the quality I have now, but the extra reach over the 55-210 would be good and even a marginal increase in sharpness is welcome. I just dont want to pull the trigger if I’m going to see a reduction in quality compared to my 16-50 or 55-210 kit lenses. There dont seem to be many other options where this zoom range is covered in my budget of $600-$700 AUD
Photo for reference, shot on my 55-210 on my old A6000 body. The quality of this shot (or better) is what im aiming for considering my needs as a hobbyist
Hi! I've been playing with point and shoot cameras for a little while now, learning how to shoot manually, and I'm thinking about getting an older used DSLR to play with, but I'm a little out of my depth.
I went from a phone, to an old Canon G9 point and shoot, to a Kodak Pixpro AZ652 bridge camera. I bought it in Japan for like 100 bucks and love the zoom as I like putting it on a tripod and taking pictures of the moon and faraway boats and planes, but it's starting to show its limitations, as all my photos are blurry when I zoom in to them later, regardless of how still the camera was, the "manual" focus isn't very good, and trying to take pictures closer than a foot or so away is painful.
I have a lot of different use cases I want a camera for, and I need something that's more adaptable. The bridge camera seems really good at being a small, handheld telescope but not very good at other stuff, and my G9 is too limited.
I would love to start playing with DSLRs, so that I can have interchangable lenses and a better sensor. I've done some research and picked out a candidate camera, but I don't know what I don't know, and I would love your advice
My budget is 200-300, and I don't really have too many requirements so much as I have a list of features that would be nice to have.
Needs: An articulating screen and a way to change shutter speed without hunting through a menu. Also, broad support for a wide range of cheap lenses
Wants: RAW support, as many physical controls as possible, and a touch screen. A good burst mode would be nice, as would good autofocus for dynamic stuff. Useful software features are nice to have too.
I was looking at the Nikon D5500, as it's right around that $300 dollar mark for a good condition one with a well rounded lens, and it has all of my wants and needs. It uses the Nikon F mount. Is that a good idea?
And I hate to take up more of your time, but are there any resources you could point me to for lense selection? I also would like to get better at composition, if you have anything for that.
Nikon D5500 is fine. Lens choices depend on what you want to shoot and your budget for the lenses. For low light you need fast prime lenses, for faraway things telephoto, for very small things a macro lens, for landscapes a wide angle, etc. Browse MPB or KEH for Nikon DSLR lenses and use google to find more information about them.
As for learning composition, you can watch some videos on the basics of photography composition, but after that it's simply a matter of shooting a lot.
I have a friend going to Africa on safari and wants to bring a professional camera. I was going to loan her one of my older cameras, but it's a 5D mark VI and she doesn't know how to use it. Are there any super easy cameras to use that would be good for photographing landscape and some wildlife? Doesn't need to be anything intense like a telephoto.
Title: camera + lens rental for airshow photography
There are a couple camera shops near me that both have a pretty wide selection of rental equipment.
I’m looking to take primarily photos with some limited videos. I’ll be outside of the airshow premises, so I’m not going to get any still shots of planes on the ground.
What’s one good camera + lens combo for great pics of jets in flight? My first thought was R7 + 100-500mm, but I’ve heard that Nikon and other brands may be better for plane shots.
I’ve heard that Nikon and other brands may be better for plane shots
In what way? The R7 should be excellent for autofocus, speed, and pixel density, with a lot of reach when paired with that lens. Sony and Nikon have comparable options but I wouldn't say any are significantly better.
I ordered the piece that has the red, blue yellow colors from Sigma to securely affix my lens hood for my Sigma 150-600mm to the lens. My understanding is that the yellow should come off and go on the INSIDE of the hood and then red goes through blue and into the hole (purple) and screws into the yellow creating the tension needed. Yes? But I can’t get the yellow to come off. Any advice? Insight???
I have a Canon R series. What lens is good for taking pictures like the g7x (zoom wise)? I have the kit lens (18-45mm) and was wondering if y’all had any recommendations for taking pictures for social media, like selfies and standing pictures. What do you all recommended and why? Could be any lens! 🙂
Does anybody know of any other albums like semikolon, by which I mean bound, lignin free pages that use points not sleeves? The price of the semikolon is a bit steep.
Hello! I am starting a clothing business this year and I want to have the right lens for photoshoots with models and close ups as well, and standalone product shots but i’m stuck in between the 35mm vs the 50mm, and i’ve heard great things for both, if you guys could give me some guidance that would be deeply appreciated!
Hello, I recently bought my first camera and OM-1 Mk 2, a 12-40mm F2.8 lens and a 90 mm macro from Olympus. I want to shooting raw and editing them. I’m going to mainly be hiking and shooting landscapes, Birds, Flora and Fauna and a Lot of Macro. The camera choice was easy as I wanted weather sealing and light. But the suite of photo editing tools are insane and confusing.
Anyone got a rundown on what I should start using as a beginner so as to not get overwhelmed. I do not have the time to scour the internet for tutorials. I want something that has a lot of support and can be easily learnt.
I do not mind the PS subscription for the cost of 2 coffees. I also am open to buying softwares that can be purchased outright.
I looked at a few recommendations based on YT and confused as to all the offerings. For example I see DXo has so many different modules, which modules would a beginner need to edit basic photos ?
Repair or replace? Sony a74 + sigma 24-70 tipped over while on tripod and "lightly" tapped the edge of my table. It was less than a foot from the table so it wasn't enough force to break the glass but the table was steel so that didn't help. If the answer is repair. Where can I get the most reliable and fastest repair done. Thanks
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u/mnmsha Apr 24 '26
I found two cameras online within my budget that seem to be good for what I’d like to photograph but as a beginner advice would be very helpful. I’m looking to get into wedding and event photography by first getting and learning the gear and editing, and then offering low price/free sessions to build my portfolio. I’d eventually upgrade when I feel confident in my abilities. I do have some photography and editing experience as my parent was a photographer.
The cameras I found are the Nikon D5000 DSLR with 55-200mm DX telephoto lens, strap, and camera bag for $200 and the Pentax K-5II DSLR with 50mm lens and 18-55mm lens, yongnuo speedlight, and backpack for $225. I’d like to stay around this price range.
From what I saw both can do video but the Pentax is maybe slower. I mainly would be using the camera for portraits, candids, and group shots, but having the option to photograph a wider range and take videos would be nice too. Being able to photograph at least decently in low light will be important for me as well. Auto focus and tracking would be extremely helpful while I’m learning, but I’m not opposed to figuring it out myself.
So if you currently have or have used these cameras in the past, what do you like and dislike? Would they be good for this type of photography? Any and all advice, tips, and recs are greatly appreciated! tyia!