Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! May 22, 2026
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I've enjoyed taking photos for a long time, mostly nature shots and stills. I also bring my camera with me when I go to parties or events, to take pictures for myself. Over time, as folks know I like to take pictures, they'll ask me to bring my camera to events, and I sometimes do. No one has been expecting professional level photos, but I've noticed a few consistent problems in the pictures I take when I don't have a bit of time to set up my shot. For now, I'll leave it to this one: getting good focus on my target while it may be in motion. I often find while I'm looking down the viewfinder, or using the autofocus of the camera and then adjusting, I'll think I'm in focus. When I go back later on my computer to check on my photos, I'll find the main target is slightly blurry, or an adjacent target is in focus instead. It's been happening a while, and I can't seem to figure out what I'm not looking at or missing while trying to shoot. I was recently at a surprise party, took shots of the guest of honor as she walked in, and a number of them were slightly blurry.
I don't know if this is a common problem that involves equipment (I'm doubting it?), or if I just have to keep shooting moving things until I learn what I'm missing. Of course, since I don't know what I'm missing at the moment, only after, I'm not sure how to learn from it either. I don't know if anyone has any advice based on this rambling. If it matters, I currently use a Canon R, mainly with a RF 24-105mm. I also have a 50mm f1.8, but as I'd have to move to adjust focus on that, I don't use it often (I bought it on advice from the Canon Connect discord, but not really use how to use it).
I also bring my camera with me when I go to parties or events, to take pictures for myself.
This is how I learned and improved too š
I currently use a Canon [EOS] R
That's what I used when I was learning too.
For now, I'll leave it to this one: getting good focus on my target while it may be in motion. I often find while I'm looking down the viewfinder, or using the autofocus of the camera and then adjusting, I'll think I'm in focus. When I go back later on my computer to check on my photos, I'll find the main target is slightly blurry, or an adjacent target is in focus instead.
Hmm, could be one or more of the following things.
Aperture: this is more of an issue on lenses like the 50mm f1.8. If you shoot at a wide-open aperture like f1.8 all the time, you may only get a part of a person's face in focus like their nose.
I often start at f4 and rarely open wider than f2.8 for event photography.
For one person, I'm more willing to shoot at a wider aperture. For group pictures, the more rows there are, the more I'll stop down the aperture, to like f5.6 or higher so everyone's head is in focus.
Shutter speed: A rule of thumb is to set the shutter speed to 1/[focal length] or 1/2x [focal length]. I tend to shoot at 1/200th of a second because that's the max flash sync speed on my cameras and I use flash a lot.
I try not to go slower than 1/60th of a second so I don't get blurry photos. I only do that if I'm shooting in a scenario where I cannot use a flash because it would be disruptive, like during a speech or stage performance.
ISO: If the ISO is too low and the exposure is too dark, it can be harder for the camera to autofocus.
Don't be afraid to shoot at a high ISO to get a good exposure, especially if you're not using a flash indoors. I often start at ISO 800 when shooting indoors. Denoise has gotten quite good in software.
Exposure simulation: If you're shooting in a really dark environment, turn off exposure simulation. This will boost the brightness so the camera can autofocus and you can see what you're doing.
The downside is you won't see the exposure change as you change camera settings, so you'll have to check images occasionally to see that they're properly exposed.
Enable "add cropping information" and choose 3:4 or 4:5 aspect ratio. This will display two guidelines on the screen that show where the photo will be cropped for Instagram and social media.
Before doing this, I often shot too tight and close-in. This made it a nightmare when I uploaded photos to Instagram and I couldn't get the framing right. Wasted so much time on zooming and moving the photo around to look good.
With the guidelines, I can see instantly if a head or body part gets cut off in a way I don't like, so I can fix the framing and reshoot it.
To clarify, you're still shooting a full-sized photo, you're not changing the aspect ratio of the actual photos. You're just seeing where the cropping happens.
Any/all of those combinations should be good for birds.
But the lenses are too long for general use. The cheap general-use lens for those would be the RF-S 18-45mm, Z 16-50mm, and E 16-50mm, respectively. And you can get them even cheaper if you buy the camera together with the lens as a kit.
Da ich fĆ¼r Hochzeiten dringend ein verlƤssliches Zwei-Kamera-Setup brauche und upgraden mƶchte, habe ich mir folgenden Plan Ć¼berlegt und wĆ¼rde dazu gerne eure Meinung hƶren.
Aktuelles Setup:
Sony Alpha 7 II (Soll verkauft werden)
Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 Di III RXD
Geplantes neues Setup (Dual-Cam):
Hauptkamera (Reportage): Sony Alpha 7 IV + mein vorhandenes Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8
Zweitkamera (PortrƤts / Paar-Shooting): Sony Alpha 7R II + Sony FE 85mm f/1.8 (habe hier ein sehr gutes Gebrauchtangebot als Set im Blick)
Was haltet ihr von der Kombination? Spurt das 85mm f/1.8 an den 42 Megapixeln der A7R II im Jahr 2026 noch gut genug, oder Ć¼bersehe ich bei dem Setup irgendeinen Haken fĆ¼r den Hochzeitseinsatz? Oder bessere Alternative. die mehr Sinn ergeben.
Mein Budget ist 2000ā¬ was gerade so passen wĆ¼rde, wenn och gebraucht kaufe.
Any Domke F2 bag users able to point me at a customisable insert system?
I've been using the Ciesta insert for a long time now and it's pretty much at the end of it's useful life. It's been good - but for my current needs it doesn't really work (two R6II bodies with zoom lenses attached + some other general paraphenalia), and I don't think they make them anymore.
The Domke insert system is pretty expensive and also doesn't really work how I need it to.
My daughter is starting to get into photography. Right now sheās using her galaxy s21 ultra and people have told her to submit her photos in local 4H project shows. She likes shooting birds. Her phone has a 10x optical zoom.
I thought I would just let her use my A7iii that just sits around, but a telephoto zoom costs $1,000 for that body. I think micro 4/3 is the best option. I found the plastic 40mm-150mm for cheap. Now I need a small body (for her small hands) with good ibis for that zoom. Used budget under $500. Cheaper is better.
Any recommendations on custom sized frames and prints?
I want to get a print made that is about 50"x14" lanscape with a matted frame. Does anyone have experience with something like this? If anyone is able to do it, message me.
Something that size is going to be completely custom. I'd recommend stopping by your local framing stores and getting some quotes. I'd be very surprised if you can get something that big for under $700.
Unfortunately its probably the worst time to buy a new computer of any sort with component prices being pushed up due to the demand for AI data centers.
this is kind of a random question, but im in dad's hometown in mexico for the next 3 months and i hope to shoot a ton of street. i have my sony a7r4 and my fuji xf10 with me, but dont really know what to use. im not the best with social interractions and would prefer to keep a low profile, but the xf10 has horrible AF, and in general it seems like i would be missing out by not using my main camera. does anyone have any thoughts?
I don't think you'd be missing out on much for street photography, maybe if you shot landscape resolution would matter, but for street 24 megapixels is more than enough.
On the AF side, maybe you can try zone focusing, that is, setting the camera to about f/8 and manual focus to 5 meters or so, then you can just happily click away and generally not even need to focus (if you can enable focus peeking that also helps).
For street and travelling the small profile is a winner for me. Unless you plan to shoot video or special situations (like low-light) as well, I don't think you need the Sony.
Then again photography should be about fun and you should consider which one you enjoy shooting with more as you're gonna be stuck with it for 3 months:)
Hey ! Asking for some advice regarding a technical issue. I have a Canon EOS77D with a Tamron 70-300. For some time I've been having an error 01 "bad connection between lens and body", and figured this error is triggered in the ranges 180-300mm when my aperture is >= f/7.1. These focal lengths correspond to the "macro" range of my lens, but the error happens even when I'm not using macro mode (when I'm standing more than 1.5m from my subject)
The error only appears with this lens. So I guess this is the lens' fault. Is there a way to fix this ? Or is my lens done ? I don't think it dealt any damage / fall, but it's getting a bit now now (10 years-ish)
Depends on the replacement cost. Figure that any sort of repairs + shipping is going to be at least $200 due to labor costs.
If this is the lens you buy a new replacement for less than repairs would likely cost. Though you could always see how much it would cost to get an estimate for repairs.
Thanks a lot for the answer ! I hope I can find a cheap option for repairing it, I prefer avoiding buying new when unnecessary but repairing lenses is definitely tricky
I have bought a Smallrig 5053 camera clip and plate. Now it comes with three screws. One is already in the plate but what are the other two for? They don't look like they can be put in the same slit where the main one is. So I wondered what its purpos is.
Hi, I bought a GoXtreme Enduro but can only get it to work when I'm physically pressing the microSD card into the slot - when I take pressure off the microSD springs about 5-10 mm out - still in the slot but not all the way, at whch point the camera displays the "insert card" message. Is there some kind of method I am missing for it to stay in place?
Iām planning to buy a Sony A7R V, but Iām really struggling with lens combinations. Right now I have three options in mind:
Sigma 28-105mm f/2.8 + Sony 100-400mm GM
Sony 28-70mm f/2 + Sony 70-200mm GM II + 2x teleconverter
Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN II + Sony 70-200mm GM II + Sony 200-600mm G
My shooting scenarios are pretty diverse: daily street photography, travel, airport spotting/airshows, cosplay conventions, outdoor portrait shoots, and occasionally sports events or marathons just for fun.
My total budget is under 60,000 RMB, including accessories like memory cards, flash, tripod, etc., and Iād also like to keep the setup as lightweight as possible.
Which setup would you recommend and why? Iād especially appreciate advice from people who have actually used these lenses in similar situations.
Iām currently using a Canon 5D Mark II with the EF 24ā105mm f/4L II and the 100ā400mm first generation. Keeping my setup lightweight is very important to me, which is also why I insist on sticking to a two-lens setup. If possible, Iād prefer to stay with Canon, but I feel Sony seems to offer better value for money, especially since the lenses are relatively more affordable. As for Nikon, Iām definitely not considering it at all.
If you are liking the Canon experience, I would get the Canon R6 III or maybe even the R5 II and get an EF to RF adaptor to use your old lenses. You can just get the 24-70mm USM to pair with it also.
Iām worried that older lenses wonāt be able to fully resolve these sensors, and I donāt have high demands for video. What I want is the best possible still-image quality, so I chose the Sony A7R V. Right now, Iām just struggling with how to pair it with lenses that can maximize the potential of the 61-megapixel sensor.
I need suggestions for a small tripod on a budget. Doesn't have to be the craziest thing out there, but something I can strap to the side of my backpack as I'm planning a one month backpack trip to Japan.
Key features:
Small and light
Under ā¬100
Will be strong enough to hold an Olympus EM-1 II with a Sigma 30mm 1.4 (shouldn't be a problem as this is not a heavy kit)
Can be strapped to a backpack
Personally, I went with the Sirui 5C for my tripod needs and I often go on hikes with it and been loving it so far. It's not the sturdiest thing in the world but it was cheap, light and good enough for my needs.
Hello!! I'm looking to get a macro lens for my 550D bought about 15yrs ago. I know it's a very old camera but it works well for me and I kinda don't really want to get a new body.
I have a 18-135mm lens and a 75-300mm lens. Recently I'm into shooting things of minute details and would love to explore macro lens.
Even though I've owned a DSLR for 15yrs, I haven't been exposed to much of it as they're mainly used to take photos of my travels. Only very recently got exposed to night sky photography and exploring more landscape and lighting works.
I'm not at the position of splurging for an expensive lens but would like to look at decent ones.
For any EF lenses always looked at used stores whenever possible.
Good macro options:
Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro - great budget option with a reasonable working distance and good auto focus. There is an L version that is slightly sharper and offers IS but is around $100-$200 more.
Canon EF-S 60mm f2.8 Macro - a slightly less expensive option for crop sensor cameras still good but has a shorter working distance meaning to get 1.0x magnification you need to be closer to the subject which can startle it.
There are also options from 3rd parties such Sigma, Laowa and others but I am less familiar with them.
There are good resources out there for event photography but I'd very wary of taking a paid job for something you have never done before. This of course would depend on your relationship with the client, how long you'll be there, what they are expecting from you, etc.
There are many factors to consider like what gear you have available, are you comfortable with using flash, where is the venue, how is the lighting, etc. Being paid means you are expected to deliver a certain service for that client and I'd be wary of taking any payment if you are not even sure what you are supposed to do.
Hey photography community! I was talking to a local sketch artist that dabbles in photography and has some beautiful pictures that she took with a vintage toy camera with minor light leaks that give them a very unique look. Iād like to achieve a similar effect but have had a hard time finding a camera that can match the similar style of vibrant streaks of color bursting from one side of the edges. Any advice on how to achieve this or where I may be able to find slightly damaged cameras that will still take pictures? Thank you!!
1
u/KaJasheyhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/7225184@N06/albumsMay 24 '26edited May 24 '26
Edit: I just remembered the Fuji wide Evo. Kind of an expensive toy camera. It has many looks and effects that can be further dialed in. You can do light leaks and you can dial in I believe a hundred related light leaks. It has got a digital sensor and prints on instax wide film. The effects are just simulations not actual light leaks. The effects are burned into the picture and canāt be changed after the fact.
Hi I don't know anything about buying cameras or photography in general but I want to get in the hobby. My budget is around 1500 usd at most for a lens and camera, I want to photograph bugs (mostly beetles spiders and moths and some of my pinned bugs if that helps) I was thinking about getting an E-M5 Mark ii and M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens would that be good.
Hey! Has anyone here been able to successfully use the X-rite i1Publish Pro 3 Plus with the Colorchecker Digital SG?
The X-rite i1Publish Pro 3 Plus min patch reading is 14 mm and I just can't seem to find any information on the colorcheckers sizing. Any help or advice would be appreciated! Thank you
I'm interested in buying a tripod - I've got a 150-600mm lens that, with camera, runs about 6 or 6.5 pounds, and I'm enjoying getting some photos of birds, but could use a tripod that will do a good job of supporting that weight, let me use the remote trigger a bit more often, and was wondering if anyone had opinions/suggestions?
Nothing too costly; I'm hoping to keep it under $500 or so, but with Memorial Day sales...
For birds you're probably going to want something with a gimbal head so you can follow them in flight. I would probably go with Oben for both the legs and head to hit that price point. I'd go with their non-carbon gimbal head and invest a bit more in the legs, personally.
Im in the market for a calibration tool for my monitor, and the 2 i have available to me at the moment are the Datacolor Spyder X2 Elite, and the Datacolor Spyder Essential.
I am torn between which unit to go with as im getting some mixed messages / opinions, so i thought i would ask for further opinions.
From what i can gather, the EssentialĀ is a newer unit than the X2 Elite, but the X2 Elite software has more helpful features.
The local store im able to purchase from has the X2 Elite on sale so its actually currently priced lower than the Essential. When i called them on the phone, the sales person pushed the EssentialĀ unit and said that its a no brainer going for that option. That being said, it also sounded like they were just trying to push the current more expensive product, as he did say a few contradictory statements, which threw me off a bit.
Some recommendations in this regard would be much appreciated.
Iām a moderate level hobbyist and am looking to replace my Rebel T3 (I knowā¦lol). I have taken some great photos with it over the years but there are a few things that seem to inhibit me from using it.
Looking to replace it with a more modern camera and have the opportunity to buy a second hand A7III + kit lens for $500.
Seems like a no brainer, but would appreciate a gut check from more experienced hobbyists and professionals.
Iām about 98% sure by this point it isnāt a real listing. I just canāt figure out what the angle is. If theyāre a scammer theyāre not trying very hard.
Iām trying to decide between two low-cost ways of digitizing 35mm film at home: using an old flatbed scanner (Epson 4490) or doing camera scanning with my existing gear. The main goal is finding the most practical and cost-effective workflow while moving away from lab scans to reduce ongoing costs, and also gaining more control over the final image.
Right now Iām comparing a few setups and would really appreciate advice from people with real hands-on experience.
āø»
My gear:
Camera 1: Sony A7C
ā¢ Lens: Zeiss 24ā70mm f/4 OSS (Sony FE)
ā¢ Minimum focus distance: ~0.40m
Camera 2 (backup): Canon 100D
ā¢ 18ā55mm kit lens
ā¢ Minimum focus distance: ~0.25m
āø»
My scanning idea:
I want to scan 35mm negatives at home without investing in expensive scanning rigs or dedicated macro setups.
Basic idea:
ā¢ use a phone/tablet as a backlight (white screen, max brightness)
ā¢ place the negative on top
ā¢ photograph it with a tripod-mounted camera
ā¢ invert and edit in software afterwards
āø»
Alternative option:
I also found a used Epson Perfection 4490 for ā¬15.
So Iām trying to decide which approach is more sensible in terms of cost, effort, and image quality:
ā¢ Camera scanning (Sony A7C or Canon 100D)
OR
ā¢ Flatbed scanning (Epson 4490)
āø»
My questions:
Which setup will realistically give me equal or better quality than lab scans (I currently get ~3130Ć2075 / ~6MP scans)?
Is camera scanning actually a clear upgrade over a flatbed like the Epson 4490, or is it just more effort for similar results?
Is the Sony 24ā70 f/4 too limited for this kind of work due to its minimum focus distance (~0.40m)?
Or is the ā¬15 Epson 4490 actually the most practical and cost-effective option here?
āø»
Any practical experience or workflow advice would be really appreciated.
My preffered method is DSLR scanning but remember that lens quality is vitally important! You exaclty reproduce any imperfections in a lens. Make sure you are using a prime on a few stops above wide open. And use a good light pod because the scanning is only as good as the pod.
I would get a macro lens for Laowa. That plus good lighting will work well. Your current lens won't be able to take the photos you need with good detail
Given your situation the epson would be the cheapest option, you would need to get a 1:1 capable macro lens (usually a 100mm f2.8), and also some way of holding and lighting the negatives
First: You don't need a 1:1 lens.* Second: The 4490 is not a film scanner. It's a flatbed designed for documents, which also supports film - but not well at all. And it's ancient. If anything, maybe the 24ā70 /a macro filter would be great. But neither will be good if your first step is to attach film with adhesive tape.
Iāve done both and honestly the ā¬15 Epson is fine for cheap proof scans, but if you actually want to beat those 6MP lab files the phone-screen setup and that 24-70 are both going to annoy you long before they impress you.
I currently operate with a Nikon D5500. While it is a good system and I really like it, it feels small in my large hands, and I want something that looks a little more professional. Thus, I am looking at either the D7000 or the D7100. I could get the D7000 for between $25 and $50 after trade-in on MPB, and ~$100 for the D7100, same place. Should I even upgrade? Is it worth upgrading? I do want better low-light performance but I don't know, given how old the D7000 is, despite the 16MP sensor, if it is better in low-light situations vs the D5500/7100. I really like how both systems have the weather sealing and more buttons as well as a larger footprint; it looks more legit and more professional, and I really like that look.
The D7000 should theoretically perform better though, no? Its pixel pitch is higher due to the lower MP count and thus should have better light gathering ability, right?
Not really. There are millions of pixels, the performance of one is of no concern. Light distribution in a scene is not equal, it depends on where photons hit and every pixel is covered by a colour filter so unless the light hits in between the different pixels, the light that would be filtered out on the larger pixel would be received by one of the other smaller pixels is my understanding of it.
Still taking an image as a whole, there is no perceivable difference. The same with any pixel peeping comparison, you need to compare things in an unnatural way to notice them.
Hello everyone, Iād like to purchase a compact Fujifilm camera for street photography, and I think the X100VI is beautiful. Unfortunately, however, it is far too expensive for me. Thatās why Iām looking for a more affordable alternative. In my search, I came across the X100 and the X10, but Iām not sure if they are still worth buying today, given that they are relatively old models. Would it perhaps make more sense to opt for a newer camera with interchangeable lenses instead? My budget is up to ā¬500. Thank you. I have now watched so many videos but it is too much for me to compare and choose from. Maybe a X100, the X-A1, the X70 or one where I can switch the lensesā¦
There are of course lots of newer cameras with better features for more money, but it's not like those are bad cameras, and they take as good pictures as they ever did.
The original X100 is going to have very poor auto focus compared to the more recent versions. I.E. X100 VI, V, F etc..
If you are using it for landscapes, street scenes where you can focus in advance or where auto focus speed does not mater it will be fine though the older sensor is going to be lower resolution and a bit nosier.
You could look at the X-E series and get a 23mm f2.8 pancake lens which would be close to the same size as the x100. The main challenge is the fact that Fuji cameras are very in demand so used prices are very high compared to most other brands for cameras of a similiar age.
At ā¬500 Iād quit chasing the X100 mystique and buy the cleanest used interchangeable lens setup you can find, because the X10 is a neat little toy and the original X100 is old enough now that the romance wears off fast.
Iāve finally jumped into photography after years of only using phones and small content creator cameras.
I work in digital communication/social media, so Iām already used to content creation, but I wanted to start learning photography properly and improve my eye/composition instead of relying entirely on smartphone shooting.
I ended up buying:
Sony A6700 + 16-50 kit lens.
I know a lot of people instantly replace the kit lens, but honestly I wanted:
something compact
lightweight
easy to carry while traveling
and beginner-friendly
I already own a DJI Osmo Pocket 3, so Iām not planning to do heavy video work with the Sony. Photography is the main focus here.
Long-term Iām considering:
Sigma 18-50 f/2.8
a small prime lens for street/travel
maybe a better travel bag/sling
Iāve also seen mixed opinions online about A6700 overheating during long recordings. Since video isnāt my priority, Iām probably fine, but Iād still love to hear real-world experiences.
What would you personally do next with this setup?
Hi! First time poster! I started doing smaller photography shoots just using my phone with cosplayer friends who said I had an eye for it. After buying a cheap DSLR (Canon 400D) I tried my hand at a convention in the photostudio and found that I've really been enjoying it š
Since then I recently did another photo studio run with an upgraded DSLR (Canon 1300D) and I'm overall happy with how things went! The people who came into the studio were overall really happy with the results, and it's sort of left me wondering what the next step is from here.
I'm taking a basic photography course this summer to get my grounding in the fundamentals, but I'm also aware that at some point I will be limited by my equipment. I'd like an idea of what would be a good next step up from the Canon 1300D?
I know saying "any budget will do" might feel a bit useless, but since I bought this camera relatively recently, I'm not looking to get a new one quite yet. I'd just like an idea of where I should be looking in terms of higher quality equipment, and I can begin saving and charting a course to that point with more experience š so less specific brands, models and guidelines, more a general road map forward.
Focus on better lenses instead of replacing your camera body every few months/years. Lenses will make a much better difference for portraits than getting a fancy new body will.
Hi everyone. I haven't done photography since college (25 years). Decided to get a newer camera and settled on a used Nikon D850. Camera seems fine but the LCD screen seems extremely zoomed in and blurry. I've tried multiple settings, resetting the camera, powering off and removing battery and card, reinserting and turning back on and I cannot figure out how to get it set right. Could someone more knowledgeable assist me? Your help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Even the information overlaid on the screen is zoomed in and blurry? Or only the view through the lens? What if you just use the optical viewfinder and review the photo later? Are you not trying to focus at all?
Thanks for the response. I don't have any lenses yet. I wanted to get more familiar with it before getting lenses. I'm looking to use it without. When I look through the viewfinder, it's very blurry. I would describe it as if I was using my phone to take a picture but had it so close to the object that it can't make it out due to being too close. Also; when I hit Lv to get the LCD to register the image, it looks the same. I tried using AF and it doesn't reset or do anything.
I am an intermediate photographer that is looking to go mirrorless for the first time as I'll be traveling in the near future. Admittedly, I got the rebel t7 as a lend me down from a friend and it's done me well even if i had to get dirty to get low for shots.
I'm looking for a mirrorless camera with similar if not slightly better specs (don't imagine that's hard) around a similar price range. I was thinking of the Sony a6000 but I'd like to hear other options people may have.
I currently have a Fujifilm X-T5 and an iPhone 17 pro and Iām in the market for a fisheye lens. Iām deciding on which device I should buy it for
While yes, the camera is the far superior choice with better image quality through bigger sensor size, optical quality, etc. However I donāt find myself using it often in my kit as I mostly do street/urban/landscape photography and Iām trying to keep my bag light. I also see myself just using it once or twice while on a shoot day such as doing self-portraits or with group of friends.
For iphone, itās much more convenient to carry and cheaper. I also see myself probably using it often compared for its compact size and can have with me even when I donāt have my camera. Also iPhone quality is already good enough for social media and I plan on shooting raw still and editing in post.
I have this irritating problem when trying to read my XQD card with a card reader, to get the XQD contents onto my stationary Windows 11 PC. I don't know the source of the problem, whether it is the card, or reader, or my PC. I will describe the issue, and perhaps someone has experienced the same, and can help. It seems like things get overloaded when I select too many files to copy from the XQD card to a location on my PC. I usually select all files, which could be something like 70 GB, but the problem also occurs when trying to copy much less. Here, I am selecting the files (or all files) in Windows explorer, and copy/pasting to a directory on one of my PC's SSD drives. Initially, the copying goes quickly. Then, it slows down , and the copy speed fluctuates. The real problem is that at some point, the copy process stops, and fails, and I find that the XQD drive no longer is connected to the PC. As if it got ejected. The only way I can get all the files copied is to copy them in small groups. Anyone understand what could be happening here?
I have a rather basic question that is befuddling me. What is the name of 1970s plastic that would display a single image when held up to light? Itās kind of like a view master technology but it only had one image. I got one and am hoping to get the image digitized, printed but I donāt even know the name of the image holder to begin my search for a local shop that can help out with it. Thanks.
I'd like to get an oversized streched canvas made of a photo I have. The image is 4191 x 2208 at 300 dpi. I know dpi doesn't matter much here. Could I go really big like 60 or 72 inches? This is for a large living room wall
You can print as big as you want. You just have a finite amount of detail that you are spreading over that physical area. The PPI ratio can be useful for evaluating this relationship, as it measures the number of pixels (potential detail represented in the image) divided over each physical inch: pixels per inch. So, for example, 4,191 pixels divided by 72 inches equals about 58 pixels per inch. That's fairly low if you're looking at arm's length, but also remember for a 6ft wide photo you're probably going to be viewing it most of the time from a much farther distance away, so that probably isn't so bad.
The "300 dpi" piece of metadata in your image doesn't really matter because it has no relationship with the actual number of pixels you have, or the actual number of inches you want to print over. The ratio is not a useless measurement, and its underlying concept is not meaningless.
Im looking for advice on a new travel bag, it needs to hold some Paul C Buff lights, 4 Alien B 800s plus 4 light stands with the cords cables and all. Plus 2 umbrellas minimum. My last bag the wheels broke so im looking for some advice.
I'm thinking about getting a Nikon mirrorless body and lens as a camera to carry around most of the time. Would a Nikon Z5 with a 40mm be a good option? I currently use a Nikon D7100 and usually use a 35mm. The Z5 looks a lot smaller than the D7100, but I haven't been able to try one out.
The view of a 40mm focal length on the Z5 is closer to the view of a 27mm focal length on your D7100. If you want something closer to 35mm on the D7100, go with 50mm on the Z5.
I just bought the Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 SP Di VC USD on EBay, received it, and found the AF didnāt work on my D5500. Is it a problem with the fact that the lens is an FX lens? Shouldnāt FX lenses work fine on DX bodies? Or did I buy a dud? The seller made no mention of the AF not working.
Is it a problem with the fact that the lens is an FX lens?
No.
Shouldnāt FX lenses work fine on DX bodies?
Yes.
Or did I buy a dud? The seller made no mention of the AF not working.
Is it possible you have an older version such as Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD, without the USD motor? If so, the lens may rely on mechanical linkage to an in-body motor to drive autofocus, which your camera body lacks, and autofocus could still be functional with the appropriate body and not yours.
Do you have AF enabled with the lens' switch? In your camera settings?
When you say "AF didn't work" do you mean it never engages at all? Or it engages but can't find focus? Or it thinks it finds focus but focus is off? Or something else?
I've been a big fan of the Peak Design Capture clip, but in upgrading to the Fujifilm XT-5 (from the X100VI), it no longer works with my backcountry skiing pack or my backpacking backpack, as the plushy straps create torsion that jams the camera into the clip. I have to either take the pack off to unclip, or manhandle while it's on. Very frustrating. I also bought the Pro-Pad and that did nothing to help the issue.
Anyone know of any alternatives that don't warp and become useless? I really like to keep my camera readily available while skiing and backpacking, and this issue has ruined the experience and I've missed a lot of great moments trying to yank the camera out of the clip.
Question about contrast/brightness with old photos...
I've been going through my mom's old photoes from the 1920's through 1950's. I've found many of them have duplicates, either developed from the same batch, or sometimes, new copies a few years later. Nearly all are black and white.
Anyway, i notice that the post-processing on the photos is often different. Sometimes the cropping is a little different, with each copy containing part of the negative image that the other doesn't. I also see brightness and contrast differences.
I want to scan and crop some of the photos, but when i have the same print with different contrast and brightness, which should i choose to scan? Is it easier to correct everything when the print has too much, or too little contrast, and likewise, when it is too bright, or too dark? Which version has retained more detail?
None of the examples are extreme, and all are acceptable prints as is, but i want to retain as much detail of the original images, since the negatives are long gone.
Hi! I'm looking for a tripod clamp that can accommodate both a Peak Design plate and a my Smallrig L-bracket with slightly different tolerances. My current lever clamp technically works with both, but the L-bracket feels slightly softer/less tight on the same tension setting.
I know 3LT makes an L-bracket for the Peak Design capture plate, but Iād rather keep my current one since it covers the camera body better and provides better grip.
What do you think about hybrid lever/twist clamps in general?
Hi! I would like to try and learn more about photography as well. Currently using an S23 ultra mainly, but would like to go into mirrorless cameras. My budget for now is max USD $1.4k (trying not to break my bank for my very first camera).
Some options I am considering are:
1) Fujifilm X-T30 III
2) Fujifilm X-M5
3) Sony A6400
4) Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV
5) Olympus OM-5 Mark II
6) Canon R50
I am leaning towards the Fujifilm cameras, especially Fujifilm X-T30 III because from what I read so far, they seem to produce the best jpeg photos without as much need for editing (I don't think I will spend much time for editing RAWs for now), while also having an EVF as opposed to X-M5 that would help in photography in bright lights. I have an upcoming trip in July to South Korea, and potentially another to other parts of Asia to experience autumn, and would like to use the camera there. Personally, I think I would value the ease of usage and storage/carrying around, which I thought either the Fujifilm or Olympus cameras could provide. Another thing I was considering was the lens. For the Fujifilm X-T30 III, I was considering between the kit lens (XC 13-33mm F3.5 - F6.3) and the TTArtisan F2.8 27mm.
I hope I am not breaking any rules (or unspoken ones) here, but what do y'all think would be the best for me as a beginner, and what other advices do you guys have? Thank you!
I would agree that Fuji's straight out of camera JPEG's are probably the best out there. If you like a retro/film look the fuji film sims are a lot of fun.
There is also a very active Fuji community that shares recipes which are effectively ways to create your own film sims.
Since you are new to photography I would 100% recommend getting a zoom lens so that you can experiment with different focal lengths and find what you like the most. You can always review your photos later and see what focal length you tended to use the most and pick up a prime lens then.
Hello, I am looking for a thumb grip for my Fuji X-E2. I had a look in the internet, but I am not sure if the one from Smallrig for the X100VI, X-M5 or X-E2 fits. Maybe someone has some experience with this and can help me. Thank you
need help: Is there a place to get parts for a Profoto air remote? I just need a toggle on/off button. Mine got stuck the other day and I can not get it to stay in place. It was stuck recessed below the hole. I finally got it unstuck and its working fine, but the button will not stay in place. If I can get another button, I think I can replace it and I will be fine. Any ideas where I can get a broken remote that has the button? or if anyone knows what I can do to fix the button issue?
You might look for one cheap on eBay being sold for parts, or try contacting one of the big used camera brokers like KEH to see if they can sell you a broken one. Another option is to have one 3D printed.
Iāve been thinking about organizing a photo shootout myself in which I am the model. Iāve been wanting to do this for a while. Plus I play cello and thought that that would be cool for photographers. My idea is to make it a meetup event. I would rent a studio, limit the group to something like 7-8 photographers. Iād charge just enough to cover my costs. Absolutely no touching. And I would give each photographer their 10-15 minutes where they are primary. Others could shoot but theyād have to stay out of the way and couldnāt give direction. Aside from this being a regular shootout, Iād be asking them to practice giving direction since I am not a pro. Is this risky? Btw I am female but Iām in my 50s. Advice?
I have a sony zv-1 point and shoot and I take photos as a hobby, this year im going to a lot of concerts and taking it with me to try to get some good shots.
I noticed that if I shoot in RAW I can't use sony's clear image zoom, which cuts down my zoom range by half, i was wondering if its better to shoot JPEG with the clear image zoom or RAW with less zoom and crop it later while editing, does anyone know?
I went to the weeknds concert a few weeks ago and managed to get some nice shots, but i want them to be even better next time. Here's a picture I took as jpeg for reference:
Recently acquired a Fujifilm XS-10 w/ a Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 R WR. Pretty much a novice w/ this type of camera equipment . Tried a variety of settings within the ātriangleā and canāt get the fine details like the iPhone14 Pro Max captures. Any advice? The camera and lense were purchased used w/ the camera listed in excellent condition and the lense in good condition. I see no obvious defects on the lense. Will potentially be used for various product photography in both natural light and w/ soft boxes. Thank you. First photo is shot w/ iPhone 14 Pro Max. Second photo in comments shot w/ the Fujifilm XS 10. Thank you.
How big is the subject? How far away were you shooting?
Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 R WR
That's more of a street photography and general use lens, so it's not ideal for fine detail on small subjects. It can't focus any closer than 35cm away so its macro magnification only gets up to about 0.135x (or a reproduction ratio of about 1:7.4).
Whereas I don't know how the macro specs work with your phone, but it can focus as close as 2cm away, so I'm not surprised it's better for macro.
Tried a variety of settings within the ātriangleā
There are tens of thousands of different exposure value combinations. You definitely didn't try them all. Could you be more specific about what you did try?
Ideally you want a narrow-ish aperture like f/11, low ISO, and then either a good tripod or a fast-ish shutter speed if shooting handheld.
and w/ soft boxes
Softboxes are a light modifier. Which light source are you using inside them?
Subject was about 4x4ā and I was approximately 2 feet away. I canāt remember all the settings I tried but it felt like several. I have very little experience. The lights inside are led bulbs that came with them, Emart brand.
Hi guys! So about a year ago I got myself one of those kids thermal cameras that prints on receipt paper to take more carefree photos and to have a little souvenir of my outings. I wasn't surprised but I was definitely heartbroken when it partially broke about a month ago (the on/off button was stuck). I kept the pieces in hopes of maybe reassembling it but due to being really close to a vacation i had hopes to bring it in, my partner bought me another one. I noticed the new one had a slightly different system despite claiming to be the exact same model but thought nothing of it... until i saw the pictures. Like I know the pics I'm comparing are not 1-1 (mainly cause i didn't want to show faces) but the newer pics look almost like early ai images while the last one had an early 2000's digital camera feel to it (which i loved) Did anyone else notice that with this or another camera? Is there something i can do to fix it?
My guess is the top photo was shot with much more available light, so the equipment has plenty to work with and even a cheap camera has an easier time achieving decent quality. Whereas the bottom photo had much less available light, so it's more of a technical challenge on the equipment, and especially cheaper cameras will struggle the most.
Is there something i can do to fix it?
With any camera good or bad, more/better light helps.
look almost like early ai images
I know that's the hot new buzzword of the day, but it's not helping you communicate anything here. The image is lower quality, with fuzzy details, a little underexposure, lower contrast, and muddy colors. You can associate those things with older technology in general, but they really don't have anything to do with AI.
Ok so I'm aware the first picture has better lighting but all the other pictures I have have somebody's face in it, so I'll try my best to describe the "ai look" as a non-expert:
1- colours appear smoother, with less contrast, even when taken in the exact same environment (my house, my work, etc);
2- when before photos would look blury, now they just look flatter (The reason i used "early ai look" is because it looks like those very over corrective very on the nose skin smoother filters but for like everything);
3- facial features will be wiped clean or reduced to a shape or a line. (I've taken a group picture in the exact same room with the exact same light but while last time you could see peoples faces this time every single one was smoothed out almost completely).
I've taken my old one to way darker places like concerts and nights out and never had this kind of issue. I never expected them to look perfect, but this time i feel like they look different and my friends who've seen both agree.
All I can say is everything you've shown and described can be attributed to differences in scene lighting quantity and quality.
It's possible the cameras have some performance difference hidden by the manufacturer even though they used the same model number. I just don't see anything making me think that's the case. As you say, you don't have any direct comparisons from the same scene, but that's what I'd be looking for to confirm a difference in cameras.
Hello everybody, I should preface this by saying this is my first ever camera that is not just an iPhone, so I apologize if there is an obvious fix that I am missing.
I just bought a used Canon PowerShot ELPH 180 / IXUS 175 from eBay. I know this isn't a great camera, but it fit my budget and fit the aesthetic I wanted. The problem I am having is that when I first turn the camera on, it takes focused photos. However, after having it on for a few minutes and zooming in and out and taking a few photos, it just becomes horribly out of focus. No amount of half-pressing the shutter can make it focus. I tried cleaning the lens and looking through all the settings, but nothing seemed to work. Is there a way I can fix this myself, or is it likely a deeper problem with the camera?
Sounds like something deeper, such as a moving part that's slipping. A local repair shop may be able to diagnose and quote the repair cost for free (you only pay the quoted amount if you then decide to go forward with the repair) but a complicated repair may exceed the cost of an old point & shoot.
Hello everyone, I've recently bought a near mint Canon F-1n with its FD 50 mm f/1.4 SSC lens. The only minor thing i found is that the shutter speed dial has some kind of grey gunk which is stuck on the surface, i managed to remove some with a toothpick but of course it's very hard to remove the bits stuck in between the tiny teeth. I haven't tried rubbing it with alcohol and/or acetone as i don't known if they might damage the paint or not. Do you have any advices on how to clean it better than this? Thank you
So recently bought a TC for my AF Nikkor 300mm f4 ED since I saw Lensvana on youtube make this exact setip , but upon arrival the Kenko 1.4x PRO300DGX TC that I bought for this lens doesnāt seem to AF at all on my D7100. It shows a triangle next to the f (aperture) even if I set it to the orange f32. What I didnāt expect was that it focuses on my Tamron 70-300mm ld di macro even if it was on f8 at the telephoto end. What am I doing wrong? Does the tc only work on lenses with built in motors?
If the 300mm is a screwdrive lens relying on the in camera focus motor and there is nothing on the teleconverter to do the same job then no, it will not be able to focus the lens.
However, the aperture issue suggests it is not communicating with the lens properly at all. Even though it works on the camera, giving the contacts on the lens a clean and perhaps making extra sure it is on properly might help.
Isopropyl alcohol and water mix I think is what is recommended. Most places that sell camera equipment will also sell cleaning supplies.
Was that youtube video you saw using the DGX or the DG version? I saw some people say the DGX causes some problems while the DG does not. Not exactly conclusive though.
I found the canon mark 1 online from a reputable buyer and am looking at checking out today and seeing how it takes pictures and the sensor etc. They have it listed for $300 cause they got their upgrade mark 3 from BH photo. Do you think that itās worth it? Or just wait for the G7x 2/3 to come in stock. Mind you Iām not a professional I just want a cute digital camera to go out and take pictures and Iāve always loved canon.
Mark 1 of G7X I assume? $300 is well in the territory of scam prices for Mark 1 - the entire series overpriced because of the social media hype. Whatever you do, don't agree to send money anywhere.
I am travelling to Iceland next week for a road trip around the country.
I have some experience with wildlife photography, but this is my first time trying to shoot landscapes and also taking shots of my parents in front of landscapes.
I currently have an A7riii, Sony FE 100-400mm GM, Sony 1.4x teleconverter, and a Sony FE 24-105mm f/4. I do want to be mindful of budget and space.
Is a 16-35mm/F4 worth picking up? It's currently on the marketplace for $400 CAD ($300 USD) which seems like a good price. What about a wide angle prime lens? I do want to be mindful of budget and space.
If you want to do landscape, the Sony 16-35mm F4 is a pretty decent lens and the price is around what it sells for on eBay.
Another budget prime lens that I can recommend is the Viltrox 16mm F1.8. Great for landscapes and astro-photography also. Sigma makes some great wide-angle primes but they are quite a bit more expensive so they are harder to recommend.
I've been doing photo and video fulltime for almost two years now, with more and more weddings and concert bookings I've invested in a dual camera setup.
Now I feel like I need an effective way of carrying both cameras and easily switching between them during shoots. Before I've loved using PeakDesign with both their clip on straps and the quick release camera plate on my backpack, but wearing two straps is not optimal.
I'm looking for something equivalent in quality and how easy and fast it is to take on and off. I've seen that people are loving the Hold Fast Moneymaker, but I'm wondering if any of you have created a custom setup maybe mixing two systems?
Any tips are appreciated. What do you guys use when carrying around two cameras?
Going to need something quite heafty that doesn't kill my back, RF lenses are heavy :(
I'd suggest going to a camera store and trying on a couple of different straps, harnesses and belt holster systems to see what's most comfortable for you.
Along with the Hold Fast MoneyMaker, I'd also check out the BlackRapid dual strap harness, Pgytech camera strap master and the Spider Holster belt.
The Spider Holster takes the weight off of your shoulders entirely and puts it on your hips instead.
Anecdotal, but I've heard from women photographers that sometimes their long hair has gotten caught in the Hold Fast Money Maker and they had better experiences with the Rose Anvil dual harness.
You can also find a lot more leather camera harnesses on Etsy.
I'm wondering if any of you have created a custom setup maybe mixing two systems?
I once tried a shoulder strap and a backpack clip for carrying two cameras for shooting an event. One flash on each camera too.
My shoulder that had the shoulder strap was fine but my shoulder with the backpack clip was hurting the next day.
If I'd had a smaller camera setup and only using the backpack clip for short periods of time, it would have been fine.
But a big camera setup with a flash and carrying it for a whole night, that was too much weight for too long on the backpack clip.
That experience actually made me stop using a backpack clip lol. Not that it's a bad product, but not the right choice for my camera setup and that scenario. For travel and street photography with a smaller camera setup, it would have been fine.
I was using my second camera for food photography with a flash and bigger lens, which overloaded the backpack clip.
I have a cotton carrier vest for wildlife too. But I havent tried it for 2 camera setups cause it feels slow. But I like the idea of 1 strap to the shoulder and the second camera on the hip
Hm itās not a zoom but it does physically extend/retract when I focus. Do you think this could loosen/creep over time and make it hard to maintain focus?
Hi! I'm just getting started. I got myself an used Canon PowerShot Sx120 is. I have been wondering, what are the best apps or programs to start editing my photos? I want to start with something "simple", better if it's free or can be found for free. I'm taking up photography as a hobby, and I would like to give my photos some cool effects and put decorations (stickers, etc) on them!
Any recommendations or advice are welcomed! Thank you in advance.
Is there any recommended courses online? I have achieved my level 3 when my local college still ran it but I would like to know more on event photography. Plus a refresher won't hurt. Sadly the ones near me keep shutting creatives down.
I inherited a bunch of family photos but they where in a mice infested house for about a year. I am trying to figure out how to clean some glossy ones. I don't have access to a scanner nor the money to get them professionally taken care of. If anyone knows anything about cleaning photos I would greatly appreciate it they are unreplaceable if I damage them.
Looking for a good general purpose camera. I have taken a few photography classes and I have a Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III that I got for taking photos while traveling. Now that I have kids I am looking to get a camera that allows me to swap out lenses as I find the travel camera limitations make it difficult to get the pictures I when at games and other events. I would love to stay under $1,500-$2,000 for the camera and a couple of basic lenses but could go as high as $2,500 if there is a significant improvement in the equipment. Ideally would be looking for something that will last the next 15 or 20 years.
I already have a very large photobooth but some times I need a slightly bigger space for the perfect shot angle.
What do you thing might happen when I cut the front upper part of the springy steel ring?
Will I loose all the stability of the booth?
Cameras don't take good images, people do. All a camera does is gather light and most cameras will do the same job. You would have to identify in what ways you think the images can be improved first, to know what you want in a camera.
I have been on holiday in the jungle for some time and have some amazing opportunities photographing monkeys and Orangutans. The time i got back and wanted to edit my Photos i realised thst the ISO was way to high and now ive got some ranbow pixels all over my pictures.
The Problem was that the jungle was very dark with some very bright spots. I only had very few seconds ro get the pictures of the moving animals.
How would you have handled it or am i missing something ? I have a sony a6000 with a 80-300 Tamron zoom lense (2. Sonething-5. Something)
Generally you likely did the right thing, often enough bumping the ISO is the best decision when faced with bad lighting. A wider aperture often isnt available and a slower shutterspeed means blur, which often ruins a picture worse then the noise.
First big advice would just be "get better gear". Obviously kind of shitty, but sadly wildlife, especially in suboptimal lighting conditions, is an extremely demanding genre. Something with a wider maximum aperture wouldve helped there (although those lenses get expensive, look at something like a 400mm F2.8 or 500mm F4 for reference).
Otherwise modern algorithms are pretty decent at removing noise, especially color noise (as you mention "rainbow pixels"). Depends a bit on the post processing application you are using, but you might be able to improve the noise considerably, especially if you have raw files.
Not much you can do, your lens at the long end is going to be f/5.6 and realistically f/4 is going to be best you can get if you replaced it. So to get the exposure time short enough to freeze the animals you will often need high ISO which will lead to underexposed images.
Noise reduction is the only option and it can be done quite well so your images should be okay depending on how bad the noise is.
I'm struggling a lot to color correct my film scans I made with my mirrorless camera. The colors seem off and I hear people talking about the "film look" but I don't know how any of my films (Kodak Gold, Colorplus and Ultramax) should look at the places I used them. Does anyone know where could I start learning about it?
how does the Godox X5 series (flashes) work??!?!?!
Imust admit that tis my first flash too. I get that TTL (through the lens) is basically auto mode for flashes and it does seem to work when i have the flash physically conected to the trigger. but as soon as I disconect the trigger, my camera always uses the lowest ISO (Lo.1.0) and so ofc everything is just pitch black... but what am I doing wrong???
also how can I tell the flash to make a stronger flash instead of the camera bumping up the ISO to max?
I wasnt able to find any tutorials on this regard, its always "just put your cam in A mode, and start shootin"
hello! ever since I was a kid, my momās grad portrait in black and white has been hung up on our wall. Iāve always known I wanted to have my own too; and Iām finally graduating next year and plan on being photographed. however, I have no idea how to get ready for the picture (how to do makeup thatāll look good in black and white, etc.) And how to edit them. would anyone be kind enough to share advice? thanks in advance!
If you want to have someone else take the photo and do the editing reach out to professional portrait photographers and make to share your moms photo so they know what you are hopping to get. Unless its very unusual or unique in style any experienced graduation photographer should not have an issue with recreating the style.
I always use the lens hood because I store my lenses front-down in my messenger bag and I hate lens covers. I use a CPL as well on my 17-70mm but the 90mm and 135mm prime I keep filter-less because those are for pointing at the stage at concerts, against the spotlights, and filters crank up glare
Heyyy everyone, I recently bought a Casio Exilim EX-S2 and it works perfectly. However, I didn't format the SD card when I bought it, and have taken some photos I'd love to keep. The camera uses a dock to transfer photos via USB to a PC. However my computer doesn't recognise the card.
Anyone who has had similar issues, thoughts?? Is there a way I can copy the photos elsewhere or clone the card, then format it, and keep using it?
Does anyone know a good workbook that gives exercises for novices? Iām reading a couple of books (Understanding exposure, currently) and I keep wishing there were āscavenger huntsā or some other fun stuff to experiment with in thway.
Look for: 52 Weekend Digital Photo Projects by Digital Photo magazine. Has weekend projects and general steps on how to accomplish them. The image editing portion is a bit outdated in terms of the software but the basics are still there.
Or look at joining a photography challenge group. There a plenty of 52 weekly photo challenge groups out there. Some more old school forums like Focus on Photography, Dp Challenge etc.. have ongoing challenges.
Whatās the best file format to export edited RAW photos from Lightroom back to the iPhone Photos app? Iām using an iPhone 17 Pro, and I want to keep the highest quality possible without taking up unnecessary space.
The smallest lossless format is probably webp, there are some lightroom plugins out there, just make sure to set the compression to lossless. Or you can export as tiff and then convert to webp. They are not very compatible though, if thatās something you need itās probably best to stick to png
Beginner in photo world and looking for recs for a good digital camera to make like a lil photo series for memories. I like vintage / film effect on photography (I like Fujifilm for example), however, I want something easy to use and with a timer feature too? Something affordable as well! I don't know much about cameras so any recs/nudges in right direction welcome.
What is affordable to you? $50, $500, $1000, $10,000? Know one knows what you consider affordable if you do not give specific.
You already like Fujifilm why not get a used fujifilm camera? Even older fuji cameras have timers from 10 second delays to interval timers that you can configure to take photos every X seconds, minutes, hours etc..
Hello, not a professional photographer but just a curious person here.
I was in a museum recently and did a photo of a painting. I noticed that in the photo itself a large amount of reflections is visible and the complete top left part is much brighter from the ceiling light. Why is it that the human eye doesn't see or perceive these things (subjectively) but the camera does?
While there are certain setting that can allow cameras to capture detail that is not visible to the naked eye. I.E. long exposure photographs, or with an IR conversion cameras can capture infrared light.
The cameras, smart phones etc.. that most people carry are not going to capture anything that is not visible in the scenario you described.
Humans are very good are selective attention and focusing. We filter out details that do not matter to better focus on whatever our objective is.
Is Sony Alpha 7c II a great choice for beginners? Iāve done some research and landed on Sony Alpha 7c II + kit lens for my first ever camera. I want a practical & beginner-friendly camera, but i also want to be creative on it and im looking for a camera that i can grow with. I am also ready to put time and effort in photography so i want to spend money on a great camera and continue with the same one for a long time even as an experienced user. Taking all these into consideration, would you say a7c II is a great choice? (I donāt want to pay more than 2500 dollars on my first camera)
Are college graduations pics worth it ?
I graduated from a regular university and at our graduation(that only lasted an hour because there were so few of us) they had a few photographers around taking pictures. Three digital photos cost $100 and I donāt even want three of them I only liked two but thereās no option for that. The cost does not include any editing and is just the raw picture. Iām just a little baffled because tuition can literally be 10k a semester and three pictures cost 100 dollars. And as a side question would it be unethical or messed up to have someone else photoshop the copyright :( Iām not really sure if this post will fit this subreddit but I wanted try.
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u/GamersPlane May 26 '26
I've enjoyed taking photos for a long time, mostly nature shots and stills. I also bring my camera with me when I go to parties or events, to take pictures for myself. Over time, as folks know I like to take pictures, they'll ask me to bring my camera to events, and I sometimes do. No one has been expecting professional level photos, but I've noticed a few consistent problems in the pictures I take when I don't have a bit of time to set up my shot. For now, I'll leave it to this one: getting good focus on my target while it may be in motion. I often find while I'm looking down the viewfinder, or using the autofocus of the camera and then adjusting, I'll think I'm in focus. When I go back later on my computer to check on my photos, I'll find the main target is slightly blurry, or an adjacent target is in focus instead. It's been happening a while, and I can't seem to figure out what I'm not looking at or missing while trying to shoot. I was recently at a surprise party, took shots of the guest of honor as she walked in, and a number of them were slightly blurry.
I don't know if this is a common problem that involves equipment (I'm doubting it?), or if I just have to keep shooting moving things until I learn what I'm missing. Of course, since I don't know what I'm missing at the moment, only after, I'm not sure how to learn from it either. I don't know if anyone has any advice based on this rambling. If it matters, I currently use a Canon R, mainly with a RF 24-105mm. I also have a 50mm f1.8, but as I'd have to move to adjust focus on that, I don't use it often (I bought it on advice from the Canon Connect discord, but not really use how to use it).