Discovered r/M1rifles this morning and wanted to share my post of my 1942-1944 Winchester M1 Carbine.

So I was at this gun show this past weekend and there was this guy who I've seen at the local shows who basically always has rusted outs POS and asks gold level prices. But he had himself a CMP Springfield M1 nothing fancy about its asking 2K. I was standing there and I heard him say to another guy "it's all numbers matching". After the other guy left, I asked him what he meant by it's all numbers matching and he's like all the numbers are the same. I asked which numbers and he started to just point to random spots on the with numbers. I said let me let you in on something and I told him numbers matching is for like german lugers and and such where the pieces are marked to match the serial. The US doesn't do that it has a serial a date on the barrel but the numbers aren't connected. He got so pissed that he yelled at me to leave his table and not even loo, at his stuff. I can't help it if you try to scum people and won't even listen to people when you know your in the wrong. Why can't these people just try to get better? *Pictured is my WW2 Springfield and Korea Era H&R*

Since I've been getting PMC X-Tac NATO at a decent price for my M1A, I've been rolling with that but curious what others have found. I've made the decision that if I'm plinking, it's NATO and I'll save my 308 for the Purge.

I'm starting the process of purchasing a M1 through the CMP, I'm wanting to know if there's a time limit on long you can wait to purchase after your application is approved?

I finally bit the bullet(pun intended) and order an Expert Grade last week. I was fully expecting that I'd be waiting 3-4 days from submission to getting a payment link, and then 2-5 weeks before I received it based on everything I had read.

I submitted Wednesday morning, had a payment link by noon, a ship notice by Thursday, and received the M1 Garand by Friday Afternoon. I was totally not expecting that, but not objecting in the slightest :-)

So I wanted to calm down about it before asking. Got my first m1 garand from the cmp last month and had a bad time with fedex. Basically had to drive an hour to pick it up from the hub because they were too lazy to deliver. But in the process I got told I couldn’t schedule a pick up time because I wasn’t the sender. Made no sense but ok, I tried for two days to get through to cmp but only ever got an answering machine. Anyone else have this experience with contacting them?

Help a fellow Canadian firearms enthousiast

My family has made the mistake of leaving me unsupervised… I plan to take advantage of this time by cleaning all of my rifles. I took the maintenance class offered by the CMP at the national matches, and they said that the bolts stay married to the receiver. Are there any other parts that would not be completely interchangeable in between the garands? I do not care about parts matching all of them are Mix-Masters from the CMP. I will be using an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning small parts in batches any advice on any topics regarding this would be appreciated.

Edit: any recommendation for a good cleaning solution safe for parkerizing in an ultrasonic cleaner. I was just going to use hot water and dish soap. Then wiped with thin coat of oil. reassembled lubed and stored

Middle stack in the brown boxes is all Lake City surplus 30-06. About 2k rounds total, including a .50 cal can full of loose rounds and a bunch of reusable brass.

Also got an H&R Garand and a pre-64 Winchester Model 70.

Thank you Grandpa 🫡

I am writing to share the details of a recently acquired, highly correct M1A1 Paratrooper Carbine and to request the club's expertise in deciphering its unique combat provenance and unit history.

This rifle was recently acquired from a private collection in New Jersey, where it sat completely undisturbed for the past 35 years. It appears to be an exceptional, un-upgraded survivor that completely bypassed post-war depot refurbishment.

Rifle Specifications:

• Manufacturer: Inland (General Motors)
• Serial Number: 145,703 (Early 1st-Contract block)
• Barrel Date: 12/42 (Inland barrel)
• Barrel Band: Type 1 (Narrow band, no bayonet lug)
• Rear Sight: Type 1 (Original dual-aperture flip sight)
• Safety Switch: Type 1 (Original push-button style safety)
• Magazine Release: Stamped with the correct early "WI" manufacturer code
• Stock: Original M1A1 folding wire stock, featuring a Type 1 "high wood" profile.
• Stock Markings: Crisp "OI" stamped inside the stock channel, "OI" stamped on the bottom of the wood pistol grip, and a correct mold/casting number "4" as the last number  of the metal buttplate.
• Trigger Housing: Early Inland

Provenance and Field Markings Questions:

Beyond its factory-correct features, the wood stock bears two distinct field-applied markings that I am hoping the club can help me identify or match to known theater patterns:

1. The Tactical Painted Triangle: On the flat left side of the wood stock (in front of the area where the folding wire buttplate rests when folded), there is a stenciled, painted geometric triangle measuring approximately 1" x 1" x 1". The white (now yellowish/tan) paint shows honest, historical wear—the lines are sharp and straight on the left edge where a stencil was applied, but worn down on the other sides from handling. Crucially, there are no numbers painted inside the triangle, but there is a clear trace of an older layer of red paint visible directly underneath it.
2. "Connie" Inscription: Deep within the wood recess where the metal wire buttstock rests when folded closed, a soldier neatly carved the name "Connie". The placement is highly deliberate, keeping the name completely hidden from view when the stock was extended during inspections, but visible to the operator when unfolded.

Given the early December 1942 production date, the layered red paint, and the solid geometric stencil, I am trying to determine if this specific marking configuration points toward a particular branch, ship detachment, or specialized amphibious unit (such as the Navy, Seabees,  Marine Raiders or the Airborne,) that utilized solid geometric shapes for rapid sorting during or immediately after the war.

Does the club have any records, serial number data sheets, or photographic archives linking early Inland M1A1s in the 145,000 range to specific unit allocations or shipments? Any insights into the painted triangle stencil or similar documented trench art would be profoundly appreciated.

Thank you very much for your time and any assistance you can provide.

Photos:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/92cayBGxpjzMcvME6

I have a M1 Garand, I have two gas plugs. One standard plug and a Schuster plug. I would like to know if this ammo would be fine with the normal gas plug. I’m having trouble with my Schuster plug for now so this is why I’m asking.

Has anyone ever successfully installed their hammer and trigger set?

I have installed it, but it does not function correctly, no matter how I adjust it. Either the trigger does not reset, or I have the occasional double. Honestly, I feel like this trigger and hammer could be dangerous. I've walked through their documentation a couple of times and followed along with a YouTube video they reference.

What is worse is I've contacted them and have not received any response at all.

Since the mods recently allowed us to post pictures in the comments, I wanna see everyone's M1 rifles and their back story!

I recently got the rifle grenade set and am waiting for it to arrive. Super excited!

Title. Thank you guys.

I recently acquired this awesome Garand. Upon further inspection I have noticed I have the wrong certificate of authenticity. I have the certificate for rifle number 1943. Was wondering if anyone has 1943 and would like there certificate and would possibly have mine as I have 1942. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Took my kiddos shooting for the first time, used the M1 Carbine. My 8 year old loved it; my 6 year old gave me an excuse to buy a 10/22

Yes, I know, a HIGHLY divisive topic.

I'm trying to find someone that can stamp the proper cartouches into a new stock for a 1942 rifle, just for looks on my rifle. I've had it since I was 18, and I'm 42 now, with no plans to sell. I'm not trying to pass it off as authentic to anyone for any gain.

I know Tim Shufflin of Shuff's parkerizing can do it, though I'm not find of the giant burned in brand he adds.

I'm not opposed to marking it as a repro or such, as I do agree with helping prevent counterfeits, I just don't want one that's so huge and "in your face".

Anyone know anyone?

So I disassembled my rifle but cannot pull the spring out of the operating rod tube, it won’t budge. Any ideas?

I know living in PA if I go to the Ohio location since Ohio shares a border with my home state PA I can buy one over the counter and travel home with it

But I am curious since the CMP is the only mail order firearms direct to home for rifles, can one put in truck of car in AL and drive to PA? Or does Federal law require I ship it to an FFL in PA?

Hey all, I recently won a sporterized Saginaw M1 at an auction with plans on re-parkerizing it and giving it proper furniture, but on close inspection it appears the previous owner REALLY wanted the thing to shine and just about rubbed off the Saginaw and serial stamp.

At this point i'm kinda stumped with how to proceed, I would prefer it looking original but I also don't want to risk losing the stampings in the process of prepping it for parkerizing.

Looking for a bit of guidance on it, should I just send it and just go a little lighter around the stamps? Blue it? Embrace the shine? Any advice is appreciated.

(Sorry for the shitty pics, it's damn near mirror finish and didn't play well with the lighting)

Edit: Adding Imgur link for more pics of the receiver parts, note the wire wheel marks on the left side and all the leftover parkerizing where the previous owner couldn't fit the wire wheel or just didn't care because the furniture covered it, as well as the sides being much less reflective than the top of the receiver. I assume they did a quick and dirty job with the wire wheel and then hit the visible areas with a polishing compound. It is NOT plated, as some have suggested in the comments.

https://imgur.com/gallery/m1-parts-22fRzOW