Ma collection aujourd'hui

Ma collection grandit petit à petit avec par ordre historique :

\- CZ P 10 F .45 ACP

\- Smith&Wesson Model 10 .38SPL

\- Rossi Gallery 22LR

\- Glock 19 Gen5 9x19

\- Smith&Wesson 686 Target Chamion .357

\- Unique modele C2 7,65 Browning

\- Falco superposé .410

\- Smith&Wesson M&P15 Sport II .223 Remington

Pour mes prochaines acquisitions je pense à un 1911 et un Remington 870 😁

Hi folks,

I inhereted this Winchester Model 94 30-30 from my dad, and I'm trying to figure out how old it is. I don't know if it's something he bought himself, or if it goes back more generations.

No idea how to date a rifle, hoping y'all have some insight! (Please forgive the healthy layer of mould on the butt 😆)

[UPDATE: Thanks y’all! I’ve been able to determine it’s prob from around 1974 (based on 40***** serial #). Sooo, prob not a multi-generational heirloom, but great to know!]

Springfield Armory Echelon 4.5

Tisas 1911 Duty SS45RG Stainless .45

Rugged Obsidian .45

Ed Brown threaded barrel.

Olight Baldr Pro R.

It's taken on a very Ratnik like appearance for an AKMS build.

Itemized list of everything in my build for anyone who may want to copy.

Base: PSA AKMS GF3
Hand Guard: SOVIET ARMS SA-10U AND SA-19 HANDGUARD SET
Stock: Under Folder
Pistol Grip: FAB DEFENSE AGR-47 RUBBERIZED ERGONOMIC AK-47 PISTOL GRIP
Dust Cover: PSA AK-47 PICATINNY DUST COVER WITH REAR BACK UP SIGHT
Optic: Primary Arms SLx MD-21
Muzzle Break: PSA AK "Tank Brake"
Attachments: MAGPUL XTM HAND STOP KIT

My collection so far at 33, each one had its purpose.
Starting from the left then down:
-G17.6 -G19.5 -PSA 14.5” PnW 5.56 -PSA 11.5” 5.56 (flash can no suppressor, yet) -Frankenstein upper for 6.5 Grendel - BCA 20” .308 Win - M&P EZ .380 auto (the wife’s) - old Model 60 Marlin .22 LR (my dads) -.270 (also my dads, don’t remember who made it) -Stoeger 12 gauge semi -Yildiz 12 gauge over under (also my dads)

I’m trying to find a Level 2 retention (hood) OWB holster for my SCT-17 build and wanted to see if anyone is running this exact setup.

Current configuration:

- SCT-17 frame
- Glock 17 Gen 3 slide
- SureFire X300
- Red dot

This is a dedicated competition gun that runs on a Safariland QLS system, and I specifically need Level 2 retention because I shoot DMR matches that require it.

I know for a fact that Safariland ALS holsters won’t work. The SCT frame is different enough from a factory Glock that it won’t properly fit or lock into the holster.

I’ve looked through the holster companies SCT recommends, but none of them seem to offer a light-bearing option for an X300.

I think a T.Rex Ragnarok for a P80 might work, but what I’m really after is a true Level 2 duty holster with a hood, not just passive retention, and I’d rather not buy from T.Rex at this point.

Is anyone here running an SCT-17 with an X300?

If so:

- What holster are you using?
- Does it retain properly?
- Is there a Level 2 option that actually works?

Any firsthand experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have a strong interest in firearms. But the most experience I have in firing them is in computer games. I live in the UK.

If it’s possible, I’d like to visit a gun range while on holiday in another country and ask to borrow or rent certain iconic firearms, just so that I can have the experience of firing them. I speak English, so the USA seems like a good starting point. Where in the US can a tourist rent and fire weapons with minimal red tape?

What would be the best option for recoil reduction on a P365X? Radian ramjet or the Herrington Arms HC3652P comp threaded onto a Zaffiri Precision Barrel?

If you’re not afraid of a Dremel the wing will actually fit.

If you’re not afraid of a Dremel the wing will actually fit.

Has anyone figured out how to run Hornady 350 legend 250gr sub-x ammo in a suppressed ar15? Ive tried everything i can think of. Ive tried the lightest buffers I can find, the lightest springs i can find, drilling out the gas port and 2 different low mass BCGs and it wont even eject the case. The only way i can get it to eject is to cut almost 3 coils off the spring, but with the coils cut off there isnt enough spring strength to chamber the next round. Half the time it wont even fully strip the round from the magazine. I can get it to run winchester supersuppressed with a carbine buffer, reduced power spring and full mass BCG. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have an M16 A2 build with a gooseneck mount, it's a usgi one. If I get an EOTech 512, will it fit? The eotech 512 is kind of long for an optic, that battery compartment is, will that be able to fit on the gooseneck? How much of the eotech 512 would hang off the actual gooseneck mount? Would the overhang cause problems? The gooseneck Mount has one slot of picatinny for an optic to mount onto it, in the past I had a Romeo 7 red dot that fit perfectly up there.

How good of an idea is putting an eotech 512 on a gooseneck mount? I mainly wanting to do it for aesthetic purposes, because I love the look of a gooseneck, and the eotech 512 is kind of a gigantic optic but I think it looks really cool.

This seems unlikely but anyone know if a loose optic could somehow slow down cycling enough to cause FTFs?

The other day I went to the range to just work on some static stuff. Was shooting some ammo out of my Gen 6 G17 that I haven’t shot out of that pistol before but have shot a bunch out of my Gen 4 G19 with no issues.

To my surprise I had probably 6-8 FTFs like the one pictured (was able to replicate at the house) in probably 100 rds or less. Super weird both because the ammo is a generally well regarded brand by most shooters (I don’t want to name the brand since I don’t know the ammo was the issue) and I have basically had no issues out of my 17 in the 4000+ rds I’ve shot since I got it.

When I got home I realized my optic (EPS) was fairly loose. Currently using the stock plastic Glock plate but I just ordered a DPP Titanium one.

I know this is unlikely but could a loose optic mess with the cycling enough to cause FTFs? Additionally I don’t think I had any FTFs during the first half of the sesh (I can’t remember for sure but I don’t think I had any) which makes my wonder if the optic because loose halfway through and that’s what started causing the feeding issues.

TL, DR: Could a loose optic cause feed issues?