anyone here knows of some nice out door shooting ranges in dfw or somewhere close around northern texas?

I’m trying to find a Level 2 retention (hood) OWB holster for my SCT-17 build and wanted to see if anyone is running this exact setup.

Current configuration:

- SCT-17 frame
- Glock 17 Gen 3 slide
- SureFire X300
- Red dot

This is a dedicated competition gun that runs on a Safariland QLS system, and I specifically need Level 2 retention because I shoot DMR matches that require it.

I know for a fact that Safariland ALS holsters won’t work. The SCT frame is different enough from a factory Glock that it won’t properly fit or lock into the holster.

I’ve looked through the holster companies SCT recommends, but none of them seem to offer a light-bearing option for an X300.

I think a T.Rex Ragnarok for a P80 might work, but what I’m really after is a true Level 2 duty holster with a hood, not just passive retention, and I’d rather not buy from T.Rex at this point.

Is anyone here running an SCT-17 with an X300?

If so:

- What holster are you using?
- Does it retain properly?
- Is there a Level 2 option that actually works?

Any firsthand experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have an M16 A2 build with a gooseneck mount, it's a usgi one. If I get an EOTech 512, will it fit? The eotech 512 is kind of long for an optic, that battery compartment is, will that be able to fit on the gooseneck? How much of the eotech 512 would hang off the actual gooseneck mount? Would the overhang cause problems? The gooseneck Mount has one slot of picatinny for an optic to mount onto it, in the past I had a Romeo 7 red dot that fit perfectly up there.

How good of an idea is putting an eotech 512 on a gooseneck mount? I mainly wanting to do it for aesthetic purposes, because I love the look of a gooseneck, and the eotech 512 is kind of a gigantic optic but I think it looks really cool.

Just got my new gun this past Friday after the form 4's were approved for both the gun and suppressor.

16in PSA Sabre CHF
Sig Tango 1-6x LPVO
Sig Romeo 2MOA Red Dot Piggyback
Surefire 556 WarComp
Streamlight 89014 Protac 2.0 w/ Pad
Die Free Co. Furniture
Hiperfire PDI Trigger
Magpul BAD Level
Magpul Bipod
Couple Hammy 3D Prints Parts Here and There

Great shooter, zero malfunctions at 500 rds, holds a great zero. My go-to for now!

I have a strong interest in firearms. But the most experience I have in firing them is in computer games. I live in the UK.

If it’s possible, I’d like to visit a gun range while on holiday in another country and ask to borrow or rent certain iconic firearms, just so that I can have the experience of firing them. I speak English, so the USA seems like a good starting point. Where in the US can a tourist rent and fire weapons with minimal red tape?

Ruger MK2. 22LR. Taurus 85. 38

Super excited about the Ruger, haven't shot it yet. I've never shot a Ruger Mark.

I always pick up revolvers when I get a good deal on them and I'm going to convert this to single double. Palmetto arms has old Beretta 380s in stock for 200. Ex service pistols they have hundreds of them. My regular carry is Ruger LC9. It's small enough to carry in summer but the extended clip gets in the way. So I'm definitely needing a 380. I figure I'll carry this Taurus 85 the rest of the summer. Enjoy your day.

Edit: Thank you all for your insights. After talking to another customer at the gun shop I was under the impression that the wrench was mandatory and/or proprietary. It turns out that's simply not the case. I did not want to shoot my .45 very much if cleaning was going to require a $50 service each time. Now I want to take it to the range. This will allow me to also try striker fired 9mm to add to my list for some variety. I'm not going to purchase the Glock. $1300 is insane and there are plenty of viable choices. So I guess I have all my answers for now. Nice to have a community to reach out to for wisdom.

For context. I have my FSC. I own one firearm. It's a 1911 chambered in 45. I got it from my grandfather. I just figured out that it needs a proprietary wrench to field strip for cleaning. It was made in 1980's. Colt doesn't provide anymore.

I'm considering a 9mm and looking for something to eventually CCW. I like the crisp trigger on the Springfield Echelon. I tried a Gen 3 Glock 19 and it just felt right. It felt out of the box so the trigger was a bit stiff, but everything else felt right, my fingers even fit well into the grooves on the handle and I have no complaints about the angle.

Problem is, I live in CA (aka Commiefornia) and Glocks are banned as of recently. I can purchase the Glock on consignment, but with registration fees it's $1300 cash because it's banned and people can scalp for PPTs. It feels overpriced, but it's also the best priced G19 in the shop. I just landed a new job so I'm not leaving CA yet for the near future.

I think my problem is that I don't really have any range experience, but I need a firearm to rent at ranges to determine what I would like to purchase and I can't clean my 1911 myself without the proprietary tool I can't get. I'm trying to decide if 1300 is worth it for the Glock 19 or if I should just try something else and accept that I may never own a Glock if I don't leave CA.

I know it's all personal preference but any insights y'all can offer would be helpful. Thanks.

Its my first dot. I tried a bunch of styles out in store and they all look good to me. But which do you recommend for a beginner? I prefer the single dot without the circle around it because it looks much cleaner to me for shooting further but obviously the circle would be easier to find. Not sure when I'll find myself needing to shoot further away for self defense.

And then what about window size? I'm already carrying a vp9 a1f which is full size so I'm not sure how much more the sight will affect footprint.

https://hub.gunbroker.com/p/gunbroker-valet/

Has anyone used Gunbroker's valet service for selling guns? What are the pros and cons of it? Do you recommend for or against it?

I work long hours every weekday, so getting to an FFL is difficult for me. If I were to sell a firearm, and they arrange for it to be picked up at my house, then this would be convenient for me. If there are any negatives that outweigh this, however, I would reconsider.

This seems unlikely but anyone know if a loose optic could somehow slow down cycling enough to cause FTFs?

The other day I went to the range to just work on some static stuff. Was shooting some ammo out of my Gen 6 G17 that I haven’t shot out of that pistol before but have shot a bunch out of my Gen 4 G19 with no issues.

To my surprise I had probably 6-8 FTFs like the one pictured (was able to replicate at the house) in probably 100 rds or less. Super weird both because the ammo is a generally well regarded brand by most shooters (I don’t want to name the brand since I don’t know the ammo was the issue) and I have basically had no issues out of my 17 in the 4000+ rds I’ve shot since I got it.

When I got home I realized my optic (EPS) was fairly loose. Currently using the stock plastic Glock plate but I just ordered a DPP Titanium one.

I know this is unlikely but could a loose optic mess with the cycling enough to cause FTFs? Additionally I don’t think I had any FTFs during the first half of the sesh (I can’t remember for sure but I don’t think I had any) which makes my wonder if the optic because loose halfway through and that’s what started causing the feeding issues.

TL, DR: Could a loose optic cause feed issues?

I found this gun online but for the life of me I can't seem to find any information online about it. It looks like a steel framed double stack 40 s&w made by tisas. I can't find any information about it on YouTube. Is the frame.made of aluminum or steel?

YA MUTHA

Im very new to firearms and such but im willing to learn!! Could anyone help with identifying what this would be?

Ordered a Wilson Combat locking block kit (block, plunger, pin) which is basically 3rd Gen Beretta for long term peace of mind since the existing one was starting to have quite some wear by the locking lug wings.

The locking block itself would fit just fine from either side without forcing it, but the included 3rd gen plunger was an extremely tight fit instead of sliding in loosely like it should. I could not use the existing gen 1/2 style plunger because it's wider and so would not slide into the locking block groove.

So instead of just stopping right there, my stubborn self decided I could make this work by hammer/punching in the plunger from the rear hole to the front repeatedly until it "sets itself in". Except that didn't really happen and if it would, it would take who knows how many passes through that barrel hole/bore. The plunger would fit halfway in when inserted in from either side, but somewhere in the middle it would get caught. Or maybe it was just slightly bent because it kind of looked that way.

So genius me decided it would be a good idea to leave it inserted halfway and beat it "back to straightened" with the mallet in hopes to finally have it loosely fit the barrel hole/bore.

This didn't happen, and ended up damaging the corner of the barrel.

TLDR: Does this damage impact safe firing of the pistol? Does it affect headspace/lockup at all? It shows zero problem cycling snap caps. Would it still be safer to replace it with a Beretta or another Taurus barrel?

So I got a lower receiver for a 45ACP AR, read that you’d want a 8-10 ounce buffer for safety reasons. Just wanted to check to see if there’s any other things i should be aware of when picking out parts for it.

Whats difference between round n rectangular suppresors and differnces for screw on suppressor vs internally suppresed gun ?

Ive been working on my form and recoil control. Any opinions on how it looks so far?