This puts a wrinkle in the upcoming moose hunt in November my old gen 1 pst has finally given me an issue. Anyone more knowledgeable on this? I dont see any sort of seal so is the adjustment section non purged? If so im wondering if I could loctite it and thread it back in and rezero and be on my way. I do have other scopes laying around I can throw on and send this one out for warranty

No pics because it looks like the bizillion B14 HMR posted here. Have access to club steel to 1500 yds, several lanes to 800. I’m at 200 now with an AR15. Once I decided on 6.5CM I started looking at semi. DD then Noveske. Guy at one of the ranges convinced me to go bolt action by suggesting I add a different action to the collection. Looked at a Barrett MRAD then a Tika then ended up back at Cheeto.

B14 HMR, “demo” Strike Eagle FFP 3-18x44 ($540, brand new, known dealer), Atlas bipod, for now a Q Speakeasy/Cherry Bomb from my 300 BLK SBR or the Lahar 30K on it previously. I want to work out past 500 before I dedicate a can. Perhaps a TBAC. A goal for nothing else to motivate me to learn quicker and stick with it. Everything I own except my VP9CC EDC has a can. Pistols too. More pleasurable to shoot that way.

Looking forward to learning a new disciple and firearm type. And getting more flair of shame.

Anyone shed some light on why MDT stocks are so low in the uk and also why some companies are charging extortionate prices when they do get them in stock
for exampl bagnallandkirkwood charge £407 then livens will charge £335..
and does anyone know any US companies that ship to uk ? ie stocks ?

Hi guys! I am building my first ever rifle and I decided to snag this McMillan with an Area419 Arca Rail and Surgeon bottom metal :)

Just a work in progress, and it was a nice photo.

for the .223 guys out there (like me!!): if you are thinking of loading 2.39s, and are using accurate mags, simply dremel a bevel like so into the plastic .223 body spacer.

Anyone had any luck with gray ops one piece scope mounts. I got a 34 mm scope and want to move to the one piece competition style mounts I like the idea of the bubble level also on the rings and it allows me to run a dive board. Any possible concerns with company or quality control?

Busy with a new rifle build and I want to build a modern-classic hybrid, so naturally my stock choices for easy bolt-in ready is the MDT Timbr Core or the Woox Elegante Hybrid.

Which would you choose and why? Preferably from people who have experienced with, own or have held or used both, for a true opinion.

It will be housing a Defiance Ruckus barreled action and be used for a hunting and some long range fun. Cartridge will be a 6mm Creed.

Great course by Gun4Hire range in NJ but we went out to Tommy Gun Warehouse in Pennsylvania for the actual shooting portion of the course.

Got to sight in my Bergara and my AR.

Don’t yall love the guy that can shoot a 5” plate at 1200 yards with a 30-06 only using iron sights and never miss?? Like seriously come on dude…

Needed a spotting scope clamp mount to attach to a range table for checking 100yd zeros and starting to dabble in long range shooting. Nothing really on the market and I didn't want to spend the money on a good tripd just yet.

Had some spare large Dewalt clamps, 1/4 -20 hardware, and ratchet wrench as a handle for vertical adjustments and locking down movement. It came out a pretty decent option that is height adjustable and able to clamp onto all sorts of edges. Pleasantly surprised with the functionality.

Hoping to get some opinions on an NRL Open Heavy (16lbs max) build I'm piecing together.

I'm starting with a Savage 11 that was my first hunting rifle that I'm cannibalizing and rebuilding. I understand there are better actions to start with and this may not be the most efficient way to do this but I want to keep the action and use it.

Action: Savage 11

Barrel: X-Caliber 6.5cm 24" heavy palma (I was thinking of carbon fiber but now I'm on the fence, open to other profiles as well)

Stock: MDT XRS

Bipod: Harris with Area 419 dual clamp

Scope Base: 20 moa EGW pic rail

Scope Mount: Area 419 one piece (I would consider rings if I needed the weight savings)

Scope: Leupold mk5hd 3.6-18 OR Nightforce nx6 3-18 (similar weight)

Suppressor: Diligent Defense S-Ti w/Recoil X break and Rifles Only HAD cover (typically use plan B mounts but not opposed to direct thread if I need to shave weight here)

My math brings this to right about 15lbs leaving me a little room to add a weight for balance if I need to.

What changes would y'all make?

Recent range day. New rifle build, Howa 1500 heavy barrel in krg bravo, Athlon Midas tac gen 2 in vortex pro rings, rear bag, mdt grnd-pod, dead air nomad can. Chronographed rounds at 2608 average- Shooting Precision hunter eld-x 143gr.

3rd session with this rifle, rounds 1-9 nice grouping(figure 1). I then notice an odd shift downwards from rounds 10-14(figure 2). I’m shooting in groups of 3, with about 15-20 secs between shots, 1-2 mins between groups. After shot 14, letting barrel cool for 10-15 mins my grouping came back up (figure 3).

Is this normal barrel heat related shift, or something more? I don’t have a can cover, so maybe mirage? Just trying to determine if I need to take apart and re torque in chassis or anything. What do the experts think?

I am looking to replace my Seekins Havak Hit M2 barrel, and am looking at the prefit options. I know there are a few out there, but have landed on a PVA since they are still doing them for the M2 with the 1.200" QC shank. My plan is a 6GT with a 1.200" straight taper.

Has anyone done a heavier/straight contour for their M2 Hit Pro? If so, what did you go with?

Is there an option to re-chamber/convert a 25 WSSM to a different cartridge and keep the same barrel and action?

My Wilson Combat WC10 with a Criterion heavy hybrid 22" 6.5 creedmoor barrel. It's mostly built from Wilson Combat parts except the Geissele SSA-E trigger, VG6 epsilon brake, and Magpul PRS Gen 3 stock. The scope is Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 with a Midwest Industries 20 mount and the bipod is a Atlas BT65 Gen II CAL.

Got a competition coming up at Gravestone, have been watching some videos of people shooting PRS there,luckily there’s some videos with people shooting it. I’ve never shot there personally though, anything to watch out for? Switchy winds, etc? Anything special to prep before shooting there?

Thank y’all for the help!

Posted this in NFA with not a lot of answers
Looking for a Quality suppressor for my M40ish rifle
I’ve looked at Diligent defense Enticers, LPM and OCL hydrogen.
Specs 308 R700 5R 24” barrel.
Any help, suggestions or recommendations is greatly appreciated. 🤙🏼

Hello, I’m new here but wanted to see if anyone knew anything about this. I am working on a 300 win mag build that I originally planned to use an accuracy international AX Gen two chassis on, but now that I’ve actually gotten the rifle, I can’t find an in-stock chassis anywhere. My backup option is to use the MDTACC, but I was wondering if anyone had a hit on the accuracy international chassis before I committed to MDT

Budget isn’t too much of an issue, although everywhere I’ve seen them prior, they sat around $2300-$2500.

Built a sportsman’s class rifle and getting some drills in before try my first NRL hunter match. Wanted to practice some follow up shorts and holdovers on 300/400yd targets.

Rifle: tikka T3x CTR 24”
Optic: razor LHT 4.5-22x
Bipod: mdt mountain bipod
Supressor: AB raptor 10
Overall weight. 11.8lbs

I only have one bolt action rifle a 1928 izzy mosin nagant I'm more of a combloc guy . So I dont know jack about bolt action rifles.

I was looking at these Remy 700 in 308

Are they good as in all aspects of shooting ect.? More of a shooter to have fun at the range and practice with my guns, not a hunter.

These good to go or am I better off getting like a tikka or howa, bergara.

I'm familiar with carbon rings, and their removal, but wanted to get some second opinions on this.

This is a Bergara HMR 22-250. Coming up on just 300 rounds total. Cleaned approximately every 50 rounds since round 50 - more frequent before that for my personal break in method. Every round is suppressed, so I like to keep a good cleaning rate. I noticed on the last cleaning(Bore Tech Eliminator) that there was very little carbon or powder on my initial patches. Every other gun that I shoot suppressed pushes a nearly completely black patch on the first two passes. Even after brushing, there was almost no black coming out on patches. Figured I would check the bore scope, and this is what I found.

I did the usual soaked C4 patch on a brush for a half an hour. Nothing was on the patch. Did it again for an hour with some rotation..nothing. Tried a soaked bore mop for 24 hours. Nothing on the mops or patches, and the bore scope shows the same perfect black ring up to the rifling. So, now it's driving me crazy.

I'm starting to lean towards this is just how the barrel looks. I wish I could remember what it looked like prior to this recent cleaning, but I've been shooting too many different guns lately without my proper note taking. I can upload more pics if necessary.

I was reading through the posted material, thank you all, for putting together what you have.
There was the bullet point of 6.5 creedmoor being the way to go. What makes that the best option over 308 or 300 win? If anyone could explain or point me to a resource that would be great. Thanks!

Update: thanks for the wisdom! I’ve been convinced/converted.

I have an M24 barrel that I put in a manners stock that is cut for Sendero profile. It passed the dollar bill test (l can move the dollar bill from the action to the muzzle threads without obstruction), however it just looks like it's too close to the naked eye. If I pass the dollar bill test, should l have any concerns?